Super Jet Spring rebuild

[CRJ]

I guess I'm a little late to the party, I should have started this rebuild back in January. End of last year my motor let go, leaving me with a 650 to finish off the season. It was probably the best performing 650 SJ on the water with all the parts it had bolted to it. Anyways, I've decided to refresh the ski and bring it back as its been suffering a bit in the TLC area. Im making this mainly for me to be able to look back on, but also to gather any tips/tricks and advise you guys may have for me. Im no expert, Ive been riding for 2 years? or so. Im working on a very limited budget as im trying to pay off my truck twice as fast as its financed for, so this may take a little bit to finish. Ill be starting tear down hopefully sunday.

To Do/Buy includes:
Re-sleeve/port/bore top end and new pistons
New domes (84 mil 35cc ATP G2)
order gaskets from JM
strip and wash hull DONE
paint bilge a nice bright white
replace hood seal
polish/blueprint pump
check any bearings for needing a rebuild
cut down RN pole 2-5" (not sure yet, but its loose now)
repaint nose bright white
track down tray fire ext holder for throw line/misc items
hook up primer lines
find MSD enhancer or 61x cdi (running 6m6 now)

current mods includes:
SBN 46
61x/6m6 (soon to be 61x/61x 760)
RN pole with blowsion carbon chinpad and hazzard bracket
ODI lock on grips
umi finger throttle
0* bars
UMI billet internal fill
holds w/ 2 season old turf
ATP girdle head
JM head bolt kit
#zero flywheel
61x electronics
composite reeds
lightly ported 61x cases (ode to be different)
Coffman sizzler pipe ported (needs bore)
ADA Water Thermostats (havent been able to find any more, contacted ada, they wont make them anymore)
rule 500gph bilge, midshaft bracket and blowsion SS switch bilge switch
Solas 12 vane 144 stator
impros 11/17 hooker
fresh steering cable (broke 2 last season... D:< )
riva scoop grate


Im sure im missing stuff. This ski I want to keep for many years, even if i go to a freestyle hull one day. Im keeping the retro feel going, just with the kind of power all SJ should come with stock.

And a few pictures from last season for reference. I'm sure y'all will love my mash up of riding gear.

 

[Quinc]

Sub'd! Send your impeller to impros and have it repitched to a 9/15 and cleaned up. Great bottom end and decent top end ( I gps at 48mph with my similar built 61x/61x 754cc. Cost about 100$.

 

[CRJ]

Not a bad idea. Ill probably end up running it this season and send it out in the fall, i was pretty happy with it last year when this motor was a 763.

dug up an old pic of the ski in its previous life.

 

[CRJ]

So i got a late start, didnt get to the ski till about 3pm, and finished stripping it at 6:15. Details and pics beloooooooooww \/

Stripping went well, i feel like i could make a career out of it.


motors out and next to get pulled apart


Its pretty nasty in there...

 

[CRJ]

Pulled the pump. Its a combo of solas 12 vane, 11/17 hooker (shes a dirty hooker) and a 61x nozzle.



and then the pole. pretty happy i got it out all in one piece. Anyone have tips for cutting it down?






Once stripped i flipped it to get a look at the bottom condition. its better than i thought it was going to be. Ive never dont bottom refinishing so im unsure if ill try it or not.

 

[CRJ]

And to finish of the evening i weighed it with turf, holds, latches, nose repair, and pump shoe in place. seems like a decent weight. Im guessing its still pretty dry in there, i believe its been re-foamed.



breaking the rules of weight on a 125lbs max scale.



and then stuffed her back in the corner till next weekend.




and to round off my day, i burned the scrap wood i had, moved and put the snowmobile away, and even started cleaning my very neglected aquarium. (how i control my saltwater addiction). all in all a solid day of free time. Hoping this will goin prety quick with my girlfriend up north for school, and a decent bit of downtime.

 

[CRJ]

Sleeves are out of the cylinders and we blasted them tonight, so they are almost ready for either powder coating or a spray and bake. unfortunately the glass blasting setup is a little ghetto so i couldnt see much and missed a few areas. And it was a manual fill gun on a 20 gallon tank comp, so what you see took like 2 hrs, so i called it good.

 

[CRJ]

started scraping and scrubbing the bilge clean. took out some bad reinforcing fiberglass that was flaking off. spent a couple hrs getting the crud off the outside too. not bad for a 21 yr old ski with original gelcoat/graphics.

 

[CRJ]

Bilge is clean and dry, so im going to see if there are any leaks of water from the tray area. I have a bit of work to do to fill some gouges from items inside the hull rubbing, and then i will get it sanded and prepped for a white paint. Currently waiting for the paint to come in at the local west marine. Also need to order a new hood seal as my last one sank it at a friends cottage. Watcon is the way to go i hear?

 

[Roseand]

Bilge is clean and dry, so im going to see if there are any leaks of water from the tray area. I have a bit of work to do to fill some gouges from items inside the hull rubbing, and then i will get it sanded and prepped for a white paint. Currently waiting for the paint to come in at the local west marine. Also need to order a new hood seal as my last one sank it at a friends cottage. Watcon is the way to go i hear?


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Watcon seal is definitely the way to go!

 

[CRJ]

Facing a bit of a dilemma.

Ive found sleeves, pistons and domes for my top end. Sleeves are $130 each, domes are around 70 bucks, and the pistons are around 100 each. once thats in canada with or horrible dollar, its going to cost me $662 plus any shipping and duty i get hit with, so call it $750. Then i need to have the sleeves bored which will run me another $90 per hole. so with tax ill be around $950. This will leave me with a ported 760 61x top end using 90mm OD sleeves.

My problem is im having trouble deciding if its worth the $1000 or i should just get a cheap stock 61x 701 top end (around 300 to me) and throw on some domes. Running a single 46 on fly cut lightly ported 61x cases.

thoughts? options?

$100 US is $125 canadian right now, so its hurting my spending ability, and the very limited budget is only making this harder.

 

[Roseand]

Facing a bit of a dilemma.

Ive found sleeves, pistons and domes for my top end. Sleeves are $130 each, domes are around 70 bucks, and the pistons are around 100 each. once thats in canada with or horrible dollar, its going to cost me $662 plus any shipping and duty i get hit with, so call it $750. Then i need to have the sleeves bored which will run me another $90 per hole. so with tax ill be around $950. This will leave me with a ported 760 61x top end using 90mm OD sleeves.

My problem is im having trouble deciding if its worth the $1000 or i should just get a cheap stock 61x 701 top end (around 300 to me) and throw on some domes. Running a single 46 on fly cut lightly ported 61x cases.

thoughts? options?

$100 US is $125 canadian right now, so its hurting my spending ability, and the very limited budget is only making this harder.

Why not a jetmaniac 735 top end kit?

 

[Roseand]

Or just his 701 kit so you've got a few bores left.

 

[jetx]

I wouldn't spend the 1000$$ on the bigbore sleeves. Id grab a set of cylinders ported by a reputable company and run them.

 

[CRJ]

The cylinders i have are a solid set ported and just needing sleeves matched to them. Ws very happy with the power. regardless ive realised i need to stay within canada, i just cant afford over the border shopping, which includes jetmaniac sadly. His $650 top end would run me $950 canadian plus shipping as i dont have a core.

 

[CRJ]

May have found a motor option, ill update when somethings in stone.

and finally they got a can in.

 

[CRJ]

After washing and cleaning the hull i let it sit. Ive noticed some water coming through the bulkhead and pooling in the bottom of the bilge. I have raised the rear of the ski up to drain the tray and it will stay like that for another 8-9 days, its been like that for the last 10 or so. It is clear the bulkhead seal is bad, and i will have to grind out and fill this to reseal it. I have no reason to believe that water is coming in through the tray or footholds, and it is simply from sitting with water in the bilge which it normally have an inch or so in it at all times due to my bilge pump design.

What is commonly used to bond decks?

Any suggestions on what to seal it with otherwise?


I have a bit of fiberglass work inside the hull to do to repair some rubbing marks.

What material is the bottom and top decks made out of? Epoxy resin is required i assume.

I have also secured a top end thanks to a member in NJ. Waiting for paypal to transfer my $ so i can get that on its way up here. Ill be running a 61x/61x 701 this season to give me enough power to improve my riding while still fitting in my budget. Starting a savings now to try and get some decent power, if anyone wants to donate! but i know it will be consumed by something as the next 6 months are up in the air on where ill be living among a few other details.


Few shots of the water after towel drying the inside. My phone decided focusing wasnt needed.




And i finally caved and went down to the lake. The water is around 39*, so im not missing out yet. Goal is to have it together by end of may, hoepfuly sooner.


and a post water drain weight, i have no idea if it has been refoamed sadly, and i dont have the time or funds to cut it apart to find out. Atleast not this season.

 

[Roseand]

After washing and cleaning the hull i let it sit. Ive noticed some water coming through the bulkhead and pooling in the bottom of the bilge. I have raised the rear of the ski up to drain the tray and it will stay like that for another 8-9 days, its been like that for the last 10 or so. It is clear the bulkhead seal is bad, and i will have to grind out and fill this to reseal it. I have no reason to believe that water is coming in through the tray or footholds, and it is simply from sitting with water in the bilge which it normally have an inch or so in it at all times due to my bilge pump design.

What is commonly used to bond decks?

Any suggestions on what to seal it with otherwise?


I have a bit of fiberglass work inside the hull to do to repair some rubbing marks.

What material is the bottom and top decks made out of? Epoxy resin is required i assume.

I have also secured a top end thanks to a member in NJ. Waiting for paypal to transfer my $ so i can get that on its way up here. Ill be running a 61x/61x 701 this season to give me enough power to improve my riding while still fitting in my budget. Starting a savings now to try and get some decent power, if anyone wants to donate! but i know it will be consumed by something as the next 6 months are up in the air on where ill be living among a few other details.


Few shots of the water after towel drying the inside. My phone decided focusing wasnt needed.
View attachment 275581
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View attachment 275583

And i finally caved and went down to the lake. The water is around 39*, so im not missing out yet. Goal is to have it together by end of may, hoepfuly sooner.
View attachment 275584

and a post water drain weight, i have no idea if it has been refoamed sadly, and i dont have the time or funds to cut it apart to find out. Atleast not this season.
View attachment 275585
View attachment 275586

Just use thickened epoxy to seal it. And use biax to reinforce the worn down area. Either 1208 or 1708. Use epoxy resin for everything on a square.

 

[CRJ]

well not the best news in the world. I found out from the original guy i bought it from that when he did the footholds the tray was not refoamed. So im looking at a fair bit of soaked foam in there im sure, my only hope is that its been sitting for 6 months, and draining for 3-4 weeks not that ive gotten most of it. Im going to seal on this side the best i can, and hope for the best. Ill weigh it before i assemble ti to see what its at, and check it again at the end of this season. if its more that i started with, the tray will be getting cut out and a refoam job will have to be done.

starting patching and sealing/painting this weekend through to thursday as i have a bunch of free time.

the weight of the bare hull has me wondering just how wet it is. the back of it is pretty heavy, but the whole thing is only 125lbs. Would be sweet if theres 25lbs of wet foam in there, but i have my doubts.

 

[BruceSki]

Doubt it. Just ride it as is. It's a ton of work to refoam. The weight savings is really me all that noticeable.

And also. It will leak again from somewhere no matter how well you deal it up.