I also feel like the superfreak badass should go right in the middle. Small hardware changes on the the badass make a huge difference, so you can use that to tailor the ski to how you want to ride that day. When I picked up my first freak it was full lenght, rockered front and rear. It had a slightly double concave ride plate that was D cut with the sides cut out, and a R&D top loader grate that I put on. I liked the way it rode, it was fairly great everywhere. The only handling trait that I found weird was that if you had less than a half tank of fuel, were on perfectly flat water, went WOT and moved your balance point around a bit you could get the whole ski to feel like it was floating around on marbles and pick up at least a few MPH as it did it. Definitely made the ski faster on the top end, but it was unstable while you were doing it, you weren`t going to try to carve a turn at that speed. After a bunch of years I cracked that ride plate and layed up a quick full length flat plate. It made the back of the ski slide a bunch more on turns and made it ride flatter. I layed up a full length double concave plate that had deeper concave areas. That made the ski ride a little more nose up like the original plate, almost eliminated the aired out riding on marbles feeling that I could sometimes get in perfect conditions, the ski cornered better, but if you were lifting off the throttle and tossing it to the side to go for a power slide it will still release and rotate around. Recently I swapped to a deeper more aggressive intake grate. That made a huge difference. I did lose a couple MPH off the top end, but the ski will corner a lot more aggressively, at WOT in a straight line it feels like its on rails, choppy water, smooth water it doesn`t matter. I also have an even deeper more aggressive grate that I want to try.
So don`t forget hardware changes as some hulls can have a completely different personality depending on how you set them up.
