FX-1 Started my 650 pump swap

[Smokin'FX-1]

I ran a normal 16 or 16.5 for a couple months. It performed well with that. I ended up with a skat c75 swirl cut back and pitched from impros. Lots of inexpensive options that work well or you can just go straight to the c75. I heard a 15.5 with kicker hits good, just never tried it myself.

 

[kevbo]

What kinda prop options are there for the 650 pump? Im working on ordering parts for the conversion but i havent heard much about which prop would be best. Im all stock at the moment but hopefully adding a b-pipe in the future

Set the mounting distance to use 750-800 props. They will use and seal the driveshaft splines. Plus there are modern props available. Concords for 750s were relatively low pitched.

 

[Shadow7874]

Set the mounting distance to use 750-800 props. They will use and seal the driveshaft splines. Plus there are modern props available. Concords for 750s were relatively low pitched.

what exactly do you mean by this? im not really too sure what the difference between the 650 and 800 props are

 

[special fx]

I agree with Kevbo, but the work is to the prop, not the pump setup. You can run any 750/800 prop but you'll need to have it machined for a 6mm setback to work in the 650 pump. The stock 800 props are really hard to beat for the $$ (~100 bux)...fyi

 

[kevbo]

An unmodified 750-800 prop will require the pump set slightly further aft than with a 650 prop. A 750 pump wont need as much setback as a 650 pump. Im just saying set it up for 750 props unless you want to do machine work on every prop. Useing a 650 prop leaves exposed splines that will get loose and clanky very fast. An 750 prop will seal with a 900zxi shaft and last forever.

 

[dbredleader]

I run an SXR prop w/ Impros cut back. I'm pretty happy with it.:veryhappy:

 

[Smokin'FX-1]

I run an SXR prop w/ Impros cut back. I'm pretty happy with it.:veryhappy:

Yep, my c75 is from an sxr and cut back.

 

[Shadow7874]

I have a quick question. Im doing the swap next week and im wondering if its possible to do it without cutting out the tray. My turf is still practically brand new plus my tray has never been cut and i havent done a whole lot of glass work before so im a bit nervous considering how much weight is put on the tray

 

[Smokin'FX-1]

Sorry I hadn't looked in here in days.

When you are relocating the holes you have to have access to at least some of the tray. All I did was cut a couple strips of the turf off to have access to the old mounts and room to make new ones. Shouldn't worry about weakening the tray area with the pump swap. Zou can always add a layer of biax if you feel it needs it.

 

[Shadow7874]

Sorry I hadn't looked in here in days.

When you are relocating the holes you have to have access to at least some of the tray. All I did was cut a couple strips of the turf off to have access to the old mounts and room to make new ones. Shouldn't worry about weakening the tray area with the pump swap. Zou can always add a layer of biax if you feel it needs it.

Alright, someone in another thread cut out the tray and reinforced the pump area and intake duct from the inside. I just pulled my motor and stock pump tonight so im now underway! It looks like i dont have to grind it down very far at all to get the shoe to fit back in. Removing my stock shoe tore up the gel coat and first layer of glass a good bit though. Only one of the corners broke off of the shoe, its still in usable shape it seems.

My next goals are to grind the shoe area and somehow remove the zxi coupler and midshaft coupler and swap them. I might rebulid the pump, it shipped without a prop attached and with the cone loosened almost all the way out so im not really sure how it should fit together just yet but im gonna look into it. Hopefully i can get the ski ready to go quick and have time to repaint the bottom deck still!

 

[dragginblazer]

Here are some seal numbers I have ordered for my swap. Not sure how it will work out but wanted to pass this on to every one.

Seals are SKF/Chicago Rawhide numbers

563167 single lip, fluro rubber, stainless steel garter spring 52x20x7
563168 double lip, fluro rubber, stainless steel garter spring 52x20x7

Where can I get these from online? skf/chicago rawhide sites come up with nothing. google only shows this thread. fail

 

[Shadow7874]

I ordered my seals from an ebay seller. They didnt show they had stainless springs but if you email them they do. They were a bit under $4 a piece i think. PM me if you want me to try and find the info from the seller, otherwise just check ebay for the closest thing you see and email asking about stainless.
I got my bearing on ebay too i believe

 

[dunemx9]

Question regarding the zxi driveshaft, the seals and the bearings for the yamaha midshaft. I got the bearing and when I tried the fitment on the driveshaft it fit a little loose over the shiny part where the bearing is supposed to ride. (The bearing is about a half of a thousandth oversize from the shaft) When I went to a local jet ski shop and spoke with the gentleman there, he showed me a kawi midshaft that came out of a zxi that he parted out and the whole assembly just slid right on as well. Should it just slide over like that or should the bearing be pressed onto the shaft? Thanks for the help.

 

[special fx]

Yup, it just slides right into the bearing. The shaft more or less floats in the bearing.

 

[Shadow7874]

Mine slid on but barely. I tried it at first and couldnt get it on but with a little wiggling (not forcing it) it slide on. There is practically zero clearance between the shaft and the bearing so it had to be at the exact right angle to slide on.

 

[dunemx9]

Alright cool thanks special for the info, and yea shadow that's exactly how mine is too. I'm glad to hear that's how they work though it just seemed weird because all of the yamaha bearings press on (as well as all of the other bearings that I have ever worked with)

 

[dunemx9]

Alright I have another question for you guys..what is the trick to taking the coupler off of the midshaft (so that I can use it on the zxi shaft)? I have already tried putting the coupler in the vice and using a pipe wrench with a breaker bar on it and still nothing. i have also tried heating the coupler up with a butane torch and then trying some more..this thing is still wont budge. Thanks for any insight you guys might have.

 

[Shadow7874]

From what ive been told the trick is a vise and heat. Ive got to remove mine still as well. I would heat it at much as you can before you try and remove it.