Super Jet Starter/electrical issue

So I've had this 701 motor and ebox sitting around for a year or so now, came out of a running ski. Finally finished the refoam build so I dropped it back in and have everything hooked up.

Hooked a battery up and start stop switch not working, no clicking. I have a bilge hooked up with OCD wiring and switch. Bilge wasn't going on either. As I was pulling the fuses out to check them the bilge went on for a couple of seconds but has not since (I also tested a brand new bilge to make sure it wasn't the bilge motor, but didn't work)

When I got to the fuses I realized only the bilge fuse was there, was missing the main one (think I stole it for another ski last year). Replaced that and started getting some clicking in my solenoid and eventually the starter is spinning but the motor isn't turning over.

So I realize I should have tested everything before I dropped it in, but too late for that. I'm thinking of tackling this in this order:

1. Switch batteries with one I know works (had reading of 12.3 and was also using a jumper kit)
2. Check cable connections to starter and the ground cable (pain in the ass with stock exhaust)
3. Check bendix
4. Replace solenoid

What's got me stumped is why the bilge went on for a second. Any ideas on both of these problems?
 
Figured Id update for future refrences. The problem with the bilge pump was the fuse holder was broken, replaced that and it works now. The problem with the starter was that the bendix was completely frozen, not to mention the flywheel was coated in white. Water must have gotten in the few times I used this. Going to check starter seal and get a new gasket with 1211.flywheel.jpg
 
An unforunate update. I am now getting no spark and will take any help I can get.

http://www.x-h2o.com/index.php?threads/my-superjet-is-stupid-electrical-gremlins.37785/
This is primarily what I have been using, and all of the other threads I've come across.

I tested my stator as this was what I suspected first, seeing as water had gotten into the flywheel cover. The resistance readings came back fine according to this guide, but the cranking voltage did not. The charge coil gave me 30v AC and the pulser gave me 2-2.5v AC. This is all off a brand new battery. So I figured it must be bad, and got a used on from a running ski. Replaced it, but was still getting no spark. So I performed the same test (no the resistance readings yet) and got pretty much the same exact numbers, 30v and 2.5v.

Some other things I have done:

Cut the ignition wires back a little bit making sure the ends of those wires were a bit cleaner, still using the stock boots.
Unplugged the black and white cable from the start stop.
Have used a battery cable to jump the solenoid when testing as well.
Replaced any of the more corroded connections in the ebox.
I had a stock CDI that has been sitting around for a couple of years after putting in an MSD in another ski, used that as well and still have no spark.
At one point the ignition wires were shocking me, but I believe that was because they werent in tight as that hasnt happened in a bit.

I know there have been a bunch of no spark threads, read most of them and tried what people have said. May try to perform step 4 on that guide, but right now I'm caught up on the stator. This motor had been sitting with its ebox for 2 years out of the water while inside my house and it was running fine the day I pulled it. Thought it would be an easy drop in, but I guess it never is.
 
Stator I just purchased:
Pulsor coil resistance - 14.8 (12.6 to 15.4 goal)
Charge coil - 363 (365 +- 10% goal)

Old Stator that was in it:
Pulsor coil res - 15.1
Charge coil - 351

Spark plug wires getting 4.06 (3.5 to 4.7 goal)
Ignition coil bouncing ever so slightly between .5 and .6, but have a meter lead resistance of .5, so its very likely in range.
 
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Another hopefully final update on my own post, for future references. I ended up getting spark! Not sure how I did it, but got it. On the ignition coil I did a shotty job at crimping a bullet connection because the old connection was pretty bad. I ended up finding an already bulleted wire and just did a normal heat seal to that. I also took everything out of the ebox, cleaned the ebox, and removed one ground screw that had the solenoid ground and rectifier ground. I put those two on the other post. I am pretty sure thats what did it, if I had to guess, I've been wanting to remove that ground screw just havent been able to until today. Check your grounds
 
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