Starter solenoid keeps burning out

I have a 2004 SJ and in 1-2 weeks I’ve gone through 3 starter solenoids/starter relays. I am installing them correctly but they keep burning out. I have gotten some water into the electrical box, would that be the cause? Am I doing anything wrong when I install them? Thanks.
 

Quinc

Buy a Superjet
Location
California
Confirm that your wiring is good and that your starter is good. If you bypass the solenoid does the starter work? The ground wire is tight and not corroded?
 
+1 Probably a bad Starter creating a large current draw which is frying the Relay.

Have the Starter inspected/rebuilt at an Alternator/Starter Shop.

Test the Battery Wires for very small Resistance (ohms) or replace with new ones.

Make sure all connections are clean and tight.

Does the ski start up easy and normal or are you hearing some clicking from the ebox or buzzing from the Magneto area?

While you're at it, open and clean (sand or wire brush) the Start/Stop Switch contacts. Apply dielectric grease on the contacts.

Is the Negative Battery Cable connected to the Starter Mounting Bolt or is it connected to some other place on the Engine like an Intake Manifold Bolt?

Post a photo of your engine bay
+1 Probably a bad Starter creating a large current draw which is frying the Relay.

Have the Starter inspected/rebuilt at an Alternator/Starter Shop.

Test the Battery Wires for very small Resistance (ohms) or replace with new ones.

Make sure all connections are clean and tight.

Does the ski start up easy and normal or are you hearing some clicking from the ebox or buzzing from the Magneto area?

While you're at it, open and clean (sand or wire brush) the Start/Stop Switch contacts. Apply dielectric grease on the contacts.

Is the Negative Battery Cable connected to the Starter Mounting Bolt or is it connected to some other place on the Engine like an Intake Manifold Bolt?

Post a photo of your engine bay showing the battery, ebox and exhaust/starter sides...

The ski does not start at all. Not a click or anything and when I attach the + and - wires on the battery it fries the solenoid and it smokes. The negative is connected to the starter mounting bolt on the solenoid
 

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Did your solenoids make a clicking sound when you replaced them??

But how did so much water get in the water get inside the E-Box???
How often are you filling the engine compartment with water.

you are probably buying the cheap junk knock off brand and that's why they last 5 seconds.
always buy OEM even if its used

+1

Even oem Yamaha starter solenoids are low quality. They are only a little bit better
than SeaDoo solenoids. But they should last longer than a few weeks.


Bill M.
 

john zigler

Vendor Account
Location
wisconsin
Did your solenoids make a clicking sound when you replaced them??

But how did so much water get in the water get inside the E-Box???
How often are you filling the engine compartment with water.



+1

Even oem Yamaha starter solenoids are low quality. They are only a little bit better
than SeaDoo solenoids. But they should last longer than a few weeks.


Bill M.

I have had OE relays last many, many years. OE Yamaha is fine quality.......
 
Twice it made the single clicking noise and one time it didn’t. I am getting a lot of water into the engine bay and I ordered another seal for the ebox (I had one on before but lost it while taking the ebox apart recently)
 

Quinc

Buy a Superjet
Location
California
Twice it made the single clicking noise and one time it didn’t. I am getting a lot of water into the engine bay and I ordered another seal for the ebox (I had one on before but lost it while taking the ebox apart recently)

When you put it back together make sure the lid fits nicely without having to force it. Tighten the screws evenly . I also put the cap on with a little silicone to help keep it dry.
 

maxboost

Super tuned
Location
Ia
I’ve gone through several cheap solenoids and starters, cheap Chinese ones definitely don’t last long
 
You ain't stopping water from getting in there if it has the chance. You lose the ski for a minute and its upside down if water has a way in there it is going in.

OEM Yamaha electrical parts have like 150% the durability of the cheap sh*t. It will save your season someday.

Also welcome to freeride hell. You have an ebox...and it doesn't function properly.
 
Last edited:
Twice it made the single clicking noise

When the solenoid clicks, you just confirmed the solenoid and the start switch
are working. But it is possible the 12v high amperage switch may not be working.
A continuity test would be helpful.

one time it didn’t.

I suppose it is possible this one is bad, but it could have been a bad connection.

=====================================================

***** The real problem you will need to deal with in the future is water inside
the starter motor, water inside the flywheel cover, rust damage to the nose of
the crankshaft, flywheel, and stator coils.

Rust damage to the nose of the crankshaft will wear out the front main seal,
and quickly wear out any new main seal that you install in a future rebuild.


Bill M.
 

JetManiac

Stoked
Site Supporter
Vendor Account
Location
orlando
When the solenoid clicks, you just confirmed the solenoid and the start switch
are working. But it is possible the 12v high amperage switch may not be working.
A continuity test would be helpful.

When solenoid clicks, you just confimed the solenoid is getting power and ground to its primary circuit, but it tells you nothing about if the secondary circuit is working and there power to the starter. In our experience, most toasty oem solenoids will still click but not have continuity across the secondary circuit.
 
if a Yamaha solenoid clicks, it don't mean it works.
it don't mean $hit.
it means the green button is doing its job, but that's it.
you have to check it with an ohm meter to be sure.
if a kawi solenoid click, it means it is working.
I've never seen a kawi one click that didn't work.
the electro magnet is what goes bad on kawi ones.
 
When the solenoid clicks, you just confirmed the solenoid and the start switch
are working.

But it is possible the 12v high amperage switch may not be working.
A continuity test would be helpful.

When solenoid clicks, you just confirmed the solenoid is getting power and ground to its primary circuit,

but it tells you nothing about if the secondary circuit is working and there power to the starter.
In our experience, most toasty oem solenoids will still click but not have continuity across the secondary circuit.
 

JetManiac

Stoked
Site Supporter
Vendor Account
Location
orlando
When the solenoid clicks, you just confirmed the solenoid and the start switch
are working.

This is not a correct statement, or at minimum confusing to someone who reads it.

"When the solenoid clicks, you just confirmed the solenoid...are (is) working."

I was just trying to clarify what you were trying to say. It is a common belief, that if the solenoid clicks it is good. Otherwise your info is right on point!
 
whats this bull$hit highlight crap trying to say?
I don't know who you are or were back in the day, but you keep posting crap that aint right.
get your facts straight before you post piss poor info.
sorry, but I got a short fuse for incorrect info being posted.
if you don't know the answers to problems, sit back and let the guys that do know ,do the answering.
 
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