Sticky bendix, can I save it?

[swapmeet]

I have a factory bendix that about a season and a half old, I went to fog my motor a few months ago and the bendix wouldn't engage.
Pulled the FW cover and found a little water in the bottom of the case. So I assume that created some corrosion.

I've gotten it to loosen up, and currently I'm soaking it in PB blaster.

Am I borrowing trouble trying to keep using this thing? I really don't want to drop $300+ on another one if there are any tips or tricks to saving it.

 

[piratelife]

Replace it with new oem. I would not risk taking out flywheel and stator

 

[wanderer1]

While I do agree with Piratelife, question remains, what caused an OEM bendix to "tighten" up after such a short time. If you have a causation issue I would address it prior to installing a new one that you may have to replace again. I've soaked them in 30WT for a few days then hung up to drip for a week and been fine. This is if you don't have a broken spring or dislodged weight.

 

[Freakrider]

Some have said on here over the years to soak it in ATF. It should be inspected that the spring is intact and in good shape. Also check for the three tabs between the gap of the weights and make sure no tabs are broken. My oem bendix weights recently ended up on my flywheel magnets and destroyed all three stator coils. Below thread will help inspect it.Good luck.

http://www.x-h2o.com/index.php?threads/bendix-takes-out-stator-right-before-daytona.144424/

 

[john zigler]

If you had water, you have RUST. Your bendix is done. I would not risk it. Either buy new OE, or good, clean used from a seller that KNOWS the difference between good and bad.

I sell good, clean OE bendix drives for 50.00 + s&h

 

[hink320]

I have a bendix that I had the same issues with, I didn't have a good seal on my flywheel housing and had water intrusion. It locked up on me due to rust. I bought this WD40 specialist rust release spray and soaked it in that in a ziploc bag for a day and all the rust came off and it lasted the rest of the season and worked perfectly.

http://www.wd40specialist.com/products/penetrating-oil

 

[Matt_E]

Whether you revive this one or get another one, do yourself a big favor and figure out why you had water in there. Use some grease or 1211 on the starter o-ring area. Use a new OEM flywheel cover gasket, lightly coat it in grease or 1211.

 

[swapmeet]

I have a SB products cover with a O-ring. I suspect the water (it wasn't much) came from the starter seal. I plan on adding a small bead of silicone to the shoulder below the o-ring and re-installing to take away any possibility of future intrusion.

I'm soaking the bendix in PB blaster. I heated it up with a heat gun to maybe help the oil penetrate.

Concerning how quickly it happened, the engine sat for months with a little water in the case. Like 1ml, the size of 3 quarters stacked maybe. Of course I couldn't see it... So it sat with a lot of humidity in the front of the case.

I think I'm gonna let it soak, do a few more heat cycles and run it I think.

 

[swapmeet]

Little update that might be useful... I propped the bendix open and soaked it in PB blaster for a few days. When I went back out, I sprayed in some fresh PB, and tipped it over.

A lot of black crud, mixed with the oil poured out!!!

I repeated that a few times until it was mostly PB coming out. As I've oiled this, it's become more and more free. I defintly think I saved this thing. It was kind of a pain, but it beats dropping the cash on a new OEM unit.

 

[piratelife]

I hope it works out for you swappy chan. I did the same thing last year and ended up taking put my oem stator and zero flywheel. That gets real expensive fast! Not worth the "gamble" imo. Any luck on finding out where the the water is coming in at?

 

[swapmeet]

Maaaaan, way to plant the seed of doom!


I believe it's coming in around the starter snout. Gonna put a little silicone around the base of the snout and reinstall. Hopefully that, coupled with the o-ring makes the difference.

Also gonna silicone the stator wire pass thru hooptie where it meets the case.

 

[piratelife]

It might last one ride or maybe 2-3 seasons. Thats my experience anyways. But your on the right track finding where the water is coming from. Try some synthetic grease instead of silicone.

 

[BruceSki]

I like 1211 on the stator grommet and the starter. Never had water intrusion problems and I reuse the stator cover gaskets(with 1211) a few times as well if they are in good shape.

I would just run a rust free used oem bendix. They go for about 50 shipped. If I see even a little rust on one I toss it. Not worth grenading expensive electric parts over a 50 dollar bendix.

 

[swapmeet]

There is zero visible rust on the exterior of the bendix, if that helps or means anything. It looks new.
I would like to get a brush down inside where the two surfaces mate. I believe thats where the rust started.

My flywheel cover has a O-ring seal, so I feel pretty good about how its sealing.

Do you think the 1211 would be that much of an improvement over standard silicone? I'm going with the silicone because thats what Mr Miyagi told me to use, and he's my go to for "do it right and it won't break" advice.

FWIW, he said I should buck up for a Bendix too....

 

[BruceSki]

I've just always figured if 1211 stands up to fuel and seals case halves with no additional gasket then it's good stuff for other places like the starter penetration and the stator grommet.