shawn_NJ
Chasing waves.
- Location
- Daytona Beach
The blue lines work fine for fuel lines, but the pulse line on my ski cracked really fast. I think its just from the heat and vibration, but it was less than 2years.
Stock no more
- Thread starter aggro
- Start date
The blue lines work fine for fuel lines, but the pulse line on my ski cracked really fast. I think its just from the heat and vibration, but it was less than 2years.
madscientist
chilling with these guys.
- Location
- good old p'cola
i know what it is and can't wait to see if it works
WFO Speedracer
A lifetime ban is like a lifetime warranty !
- Location
- Alabama
You ain't telling and besides I know where you live MUUUHHHHHHHHHAAAAAAAAAAAA!:buttkick:
dbrutherford
Parts Whore
- Location
- Fairmont, WV
We all know about the bedplates already geeze
madscientist
chilling with these guys.
- Location
- good old p'cola
not going to be a bed plate!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :bigok:
dbrutherford
Parts Whore
- Location
- Fairmont, WV
I was hoping to get a lucky guess... Well if it isn't a conversion hood or a Yamaha engine to Kawie hull bedplate, you guys stummped me...
WFO Speedracer
A lifetime ban is like a lifetime warranty !
- Location
- Alabama
Someone has to represent for the old school Kawi guys,not everyone can afford Lamey motors and $1700.00 exhaust pipes.
dbrutherford
Parts Whore
- Location
- Fairmont, WV
Must be a flux capacitor then...
WFO Speedracer
A lifetime ban is like a lifetime warranty !
- Location
- Alabama
Lets just say to my knowledge it has never been done before,like I said I will post up a build up if it works as planned.
resent:
madscientist
chilling with these guys.
- Location
- good old p'cola
no it's not a pole conversion that would be gay
WFO Speedracer
A lifetime ban is like a lifetime warranty !
- Location
- Alabama
I will also add that I was told it wouldn't work ,but if its never been done how does anyone know if it will work or not hmmmmmmmmmmmm?:261:
Nightmare #1...
so I while ago get the jetlsport exhaust manifold and the connection between the two top studs to the cylinder case require two smaller studs (which I have)....I got one stud out of the case, but couldn't get the other out...so I grinded it down about a 1/2 ".
today I recieved the Kirker exhaust manifold and I like it better because the hole between going to the head pipe matches the 40 mm head pipe hole..where as the jetsport doesn't its 42 mm....but I realized that the stud i grinded isn't long enough for the kirker.....So once again I try to get the stud off..
Stupid me thought i could do it without buying bolt off...(drilling and reverse threading it.)...so I tried vise-grips wrenches and such...to no avail..
than i thought to put the whole damn motor on the bench vise...and i cranked it shut on that damn bolt with a four foot leverage pipe...proceeded to twist the motor...to no avail again! I took the motor off the bench vise.. and found a big old gash on the face of the exhaust port.
Now with that gash, I run the risk of an exhaust leak when running the engine.
aaahhhh!!! mother%^&*$#!! I'm so pissed.
is the cylinder case toast...or can i goup it up really good with high temp gasket sealer?
any advice greatly appreciated on this matter.
so I while ago get the jetlsport exhaust manifold and the connection between the two top studs to the cylinder case require two smaller studs (which I have)....I got one stud out of the case, but couldn't get the other out...so I grinded it down about a 1/2 ".
today I recieved the Kirker exhaust manifold and I like it better because the hole between going to the head pipe matches the 40 mm head pipe hole..where as the jetsport doesn't its 42 mm....but I realized that the stud i grinded isn't long enough for the kirker.....So once again I try to get the stud off..
Stupid me thought i could do it without buying bolt off...(drilling and reverse threading it.)...so I tried vise-grips wrenches and such...to no avail..
than i thought to put the whole damn motor on the bench vise...and i cranked it shut on that damn bolt with a four foot leverage pipe...proceeded to twist the motor...to no avail again! I took the motor off the bench vise.. and found a big old gash on the face of the exhaust port.
Now with that gash, I run the risk of an exhaust leak when running the engine.
aaahhhh!!! mother%^&*$#!! I'm so pissed.
is the cylinder case toast...or can i goup it up really good with high temp gasket sealer?
any advice greatly appreciated on this matter.
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- Location
- Mechanicsburg, PA
You're best bet to getting the stud out is applying heat and lots of it. The threads look pretty f'd up at this point so you might have to stick with the vice grips BUT next time just thread 2 nuts onto the stud and tighten them together; 1 being a jam nut and the other to turn the stud out.
As for the gasket surface, its hard to tell how deep the gouge is but you might get lucky by applying an a*ss load of high temp gasket sealer. You could also apply some JB Weld to the gouge and then file it flat once it has hardened. Both options are extremely ghetto but may get you through the rest of the riding season.
As for the gasket surface, its hard to tell how deep the gouge is but you might get lucky by applying an a*ss load of high temp gasket sealer. You could also apply some JB Weld to the gouge and then file it flat once it has hardened. Both options are extremely ghetto but may get you through the rest of the riding season.
I went and bought a reverse thread tempered steel kit...Pfff! It snapped within the stud..
what's even worse is that I also tried to drill a hole t boning the stud...and my dewalt drill bit wont go through the stud because of the tempered steel bit thats stuck in it... and part of the studd twisted off trying to turn it!! Holy hell...someone must have put locktight in it. My last resort is to drill and tap the block (which i'm afraid of doing.
welp looks like my season is over unless i can find onother 650 cylinder block for cheap. If i had the money I would just get a 750.
but I don't...I'm out boys, It's been fun..
Thanks for the help
what's even worse is that I also tried to drill a hole t boning the stud...and my dewalt drill bit wont go through the stud because of the tempered steel bit thats stuck in it... and part of the studd twisted off trying to turn it!! Holy hell...someone must have put locktight in it. My last resort is to drill and tap the block (which i'm afraid of doing.
welp looks like my season is over unless i can find onother 650 cylinder block for cheap. If i had the money I would just get a 750.
but I don't...I'm out boys, It's been fun..
Thanks for the help
madscientist
chilling with these guys.
- Location
- good old p'cola
needs a bore/ hone job but i have a stock bore freshwater cylinder for you
40.00 shipped
40.00 shipped
dbrutherford
Parts Whore
- Location
- Fairmont, WV
Heat the stud up and melt a candle around the threads. Let it cool. Then take a hammer and bang on the stud once or twice on the end. Then try the vise grips again.
As for the gouge, I would carefully sand the would exhaust area with a piece of 220 grit sand paper wrapped around a perfectly planed piece of two by four. Just don't get any grit inside the engine. I would take the cylinder off if I was doing this.
You could take the cylinder off and take it to machine shop. They would probably weld a nut to the stud so they could get a wrench on it. Also if they took out the other studs, they could mill or surface that area flat again.
And if you ever get in this perdiciment again, an easy out bolt remover isn't going to help any. And what results is exactly what hapened ot you. The stud was stuck from corrosion. The easy out never wins against corrosion. I have failed this fight before myself. Try the wax, it really does work!
Honestly... I quit riding late Sept max in WV. I am sure your water is already getting colder in MN this time of year. I would just plan on building up a 750 this winter. You can still use that Kerker or Jet Sports exhaust manifold on the 750 engine.
650 cylinders are a dime a dozen I sold a clean one with all the studs on eBay last week for 30 bucks. It was a newer silver one too. But it would have needed bored. 50 bucks a hole to bore/hone. 200 bucks for pistons/gaskets... So you see I wouldn't put that money into a 650 just get a 750 and put the money into it!
As for the gouge, I would carefully sand the would exhaust area with a piece of 220 grit sand paper wrapped around a perfectly planed piece of two by four. Just don't get any grit inside the engine. I would take the cylinder off if I was doing this.
You could take the cylinder off and take it to machine shop. They would probably weld a nut to the stud so they could get a wrench on it. Also if they took out the other studs, they could mill or surface that area flat again.
And if you ever get in this perdiciment again, an easy out bolt remover isn't going to help any. And what results is exactly what hapened ot you. The stud was stuck from corrosion. The easy out never wins against corrosion. I have failed this fight before myself. Try the wax, it really does work!
Honestly... I quit riding late Sept max in WV. I am sure your water is already getting colder in MN this time of year. I would just plan on building up a 750 this winter. You can still use that Kerker or Jet Sports exhaust manifold on the 750 engine.
650 cylinders are a dime a dozen I sold a clean one with all the studs on eBay last week for 30 bucks. It was a newer silver one too. But it would have needed bored. 50 bucks a hole to bore/hone. 200 bucks for pistons/gaskets... So you see I wouldn't put that money into a 650 just get a 750 and put the money into it!
I went to a friend that welds...and he said he wouldnt be able to weld the stainless nut onto the stud good enough with his welder(needs a special welder).....he also said that it is a product of galvanized corrosion (two different metals electrolizing)
On what last little bit of stud left(about half an inch) he tried a simple pipe wrench...and we heard the bolt snap loose three times(was ecouraging)...then it wouldn't turn and the bolt got more gnarled and snapped off.
My last resort is the tap and die kit. there is hardly anything left of the stud above the surface now.
But yeah, dbrutherford......if that doesn't work...i'm gonna save up for a 750 for next season..it is what I want anyway. besides a brand new 2008 x2.
labor day holiday is ruined.
@ Madscientist...Thanks for the offer...but I really can't afford to put any more money into this ATM.
Thanks for the advice!!
On what last little bit of stud left(about half an inch) he tried a simple pipe wrench...and we heard the bolt snap loose three times(was ecouraging)...then it wouldn't turn and the bolt got more gnarled and snapped off.
My last resort is the tap and die kit. there is hardly anything left of the stud above the surface now.
But yeah, dbrutherford......if that doesn't work...i'm gonna save up for a 750 for next season..it is what I want anyway. besides a brand new 2008 x2.
labor day holiday is ruined.
@ Madscientist...Thanks for the offer...but I really can't afford to put any more money into this ATM.
Thanks for the advice!!
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dbrutherford
Parts Whore
- Location
- Fairmont, WV
Pipe wrench on the stud and it broke... has happened to me before too the exact same way...
I wouldn't try to drill/tap it yourself! You need a machine shop to mill out the bolt hole and put in a helicoil or timesert. That stainless steel stud it too tough to dril lthe hole propperly yourself.
I wish I was there to help because I have done this myself to a good cylinder. At least you didn't do it right after a fresh bore job like I did... dooooh!
I wouldn't try to drill/tap it yourself! You need a machine shop to mill out the bolt hole and put in a helicoil or timesert. That stainless steel stud it too tough to dril lthe hole propperly yourself.
I wish I was there to help because I have done this myself to a good cylinder. At least you didn't do it right after a fresh bore job like I did... dooooh!
WFO Speedracer
A lifetime ban is like a lifetime warranty !
- Location
- Alabama
Ditto on the machine shop,I can and have drilled out many broken studs and bolts but I just don't do it anymore,I take it to a shop and let them handle it.If all else fails you can have it EDM'ed out but it is expensive.