SXR Stock Sxr Performance Tips & Tricks

djkorn1

kidkornfilms
Site Supporter
Location
Cleveland Ohio
BEST bangs for the buck:

Lighten Flywheel (contact #zero)
Mill the Head (same)
Bore the Nozzle to 80 (adds low end, cheap)
(Wet Pipe) expensive, but huge gains!

WORST bang for the buck:

impeller (already has a stock Solas Swirl that is pretty damn good)
aftermarket flame arrestor (you can take out the trumpets on the stocker and adjust the pop-off for almost nothing)
intake grate (hooks up better than any superjet bone stock), plus you lose top end.
Rideplate (unless you are racing, leave it alone, if your jumping cut the stocker shorter)
 

tshank123

Yo hablo ingles
Location
Vegas
BEST bangs for the buck:

Lighten Flywheel (contact #zero)
Mill the Head (same)
Bore the Nozzle to 80 (adds low end, cheap)
(Wet Pipe) expensive, but huge gains!

WORST bang for the buck:

impeller (already has a stock Solas Swirl that is pretty damn good)
aftermarket flame arrestor (you can take out the trumpets on the stocker and adjust the pop-off for almost nothing)
intake grate (hooks up better than any superjet bone stock), plus you lose top end.
Rideplate (unless you are racing, leave it alone, if your jumping cut the stocker shorter)

You forgot the timing advance on best bang for the buck.

You run a stock intake grate? I liked it at first but after switching to an aftermarket I cant stand riding one with a stocker grate. I agree though, you do lose a little top speed.
 

just joe

Site Supporter
Location
NorCal
My son raced a sxi built by Rob .. at the world finals .. I was talking to him ( over a few coors haha ) at a party in Havasau and asked him how the hell does he get the boat to "stick" to the water so well around the corners .. I mean the boat he built for my buddy .. I was wanting to put sponsons on it he doesnt use them and said why dont you try the boat first .. I did and damn it hooked up so well !! I couldnt belive it .. he was saying its all about how its set up .. like a car with proper tires .. he wont divulge his recipe .. but i know he plumps the exhaust a little differently damn i didnt take a good look .. and i know he uses a top loader like all of us and I think he may adjust the prop pitch on a stock prop .. and the carb is adjusted just right to get teh power in all the right places .. all i know is that ski was pretty fast and hooked up VERY well

I owned his 2006 worlds stock ski and it was just as you described. It won the western region championship. No-one could believe it was stock. No tubbies, custom prop, reliable as hell. Wish I didn't sell it.... And I only paid $5500 for it.

Want a fast, well set up stocker - buy a proven racers ski.
 
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Big Kahuna

Administrator
Location
Tuscaloosa, AL
Rob knows how to set up boats. But, it is all about building a good package, Run dual split cooling. one line is just for the pipe, one line for the motor. The SXR likes for the engine bay to be cool. you get more power this way. Exhaust Stinger, Jetting, Plug the cavities in the pump, Advance timing, Intake Grate (TBM or Skat) And hours and hours of tuning.
 
Rob knows how to set up boats. But, it is all about building a good package, Run dual split cooling. one line is just for the pipe, one line for the motor. The SXR likes for the engine bay to be cool. you get more power this way. Exhaust Stinger, Jetting, Plug the cavities in the pump, Advance timing, Intake Grate (TBM or Skat) And hours and hours of tuning.
yup what he said...
 

bird

walking on water
Site Supporter
How good of a rider are you? That is the biggest part of riding a stock boat.

Can you:
Full Speed hanging out the side of the tray turns?
Leg drags?
Unhook the ski on demand(proof you know all angles of the ski under load)?

I got to take a spin on a modded SXR with the following:
Lightened Flywheel
80mm bored nozzle
F/A
TBM Ride plate
Intake unknown
Tubbies
Dried out pipe/Dual cooling

It was faster up and down(nothing to rave about though), and just a little sharper through the turns. Honestly speaking it just seemed easier to do what I can already do on a fully stock ski.
I legged dragged it left and right without hiccup, and did all the carving I do with my stock 2011 SXR at high speed.

Then I rode a 1200 Bullet Ski, and that thing was just HOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOLDDD ON bat shatz crazy
 
The BULLET hull is a great upgrade before motor work for sure. You get a better handling hull and feels like you got more motor at the same time.
 
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tshank123

Yo hablo ingles
Location
Vegas
^^^only if its an 03. Otherwise its even easier. You just disconnect the air temp sensor (green connector), and put a jumper across the connection going to the ebox. Done.
 

Big Kahuna

Administrator
Location
Tuscaloosa, AL
I prefer the Plate for the 2004-2012 SXR's. That is a guaranteed advance. the jumper is approximate. Years back there was some talk by people much smarter than most of us that were saying that about of advance by jumper could have some variation.
 

tshank123

Yo hablo ingles
Location
Vegas
I prefer the Plate for the 2004-2012 SXR's. That is a guaranteed advance. the jumper is approximate. Years back there was some talk by people much smarter than most of us that were saying that about of advance by jumper could have some variation.

I really dont see how it would be approximate. Its a dead short, which should mean full advance at the CDI, ie 6 degrees.
 

Big Kahuna

Administrator
Location
Tuscaloosa, AL
How can you confirm it is 6 degrees?????? With the plate you know how much. With the PJS plate it is adjustable. I think mine was out at almost 7 degree's. That was my point, with jumping it you are relying on electronic chips, capicitors, diodes etc to do the advance.......... If I am setting up a stock class race ski, every small minute thing matters, 1-2 degrees of advance/retard may not be much but when you are trying to get every little thing out of that ski, I prefer to stick with something that is known.

for average everyday joe blow, the jumper is fine.
 
I believe I may qualify as average everyday joe blow or possibly something less than that. Would there be any reason for me to jumper stock 08 sxr800 sensor, and if so does it impact reliability .
 

tshank123

Yo hablo ingles
Location
Vegas
How can you confirm it is 6 degrees?????? With the plate you know how much. With the PJS plate it is adjustable. I think mine was out at almost 7 degree's. That was my point, with jumping it you are relying on electronic chips, capicitors, diodes etc to do the advance.......... If I am setting up a stock class race ski, every small minute thing matters, 1-2 degrees of advance/retard may not be much but when you are trying to get every little thing out of that ski, I prefer to stick with something that is known.

for average everyday joe blow, the jumper is fine.

I get what your saying. Component tolerances can change the timing in the CDI circuit. But it really doesn't matter if you advance it at the plate in that case. You still have a CDI which has chips and caps and diodes etc. You still wont know what your actual timing is.

One thing is for sure, if you leave that sensor hooked up you really dont know what the timing is one day to the next. It might be 6 degrees at the plate but the fluctuations in temperature are changing the timing constantly.
 

tshank123

Yo hablo ingles
Location
Vegas
I believe I may qualify as average everyday joe blow or possibly something less than that. Would there be any reason for me to jumper stock 08 sxr800 sensor, and if so does it impact reliability .

Yes and yes. Its a noticeable difference off the bottom when you advance it. Reliability will be impacted because you've advanced the timing throughout the entire RPM range. So when you're in the higher RPMs your timing isnt ideal. Piston temps will go up, your chances of a lean seize is higher, especially if your carbs are not adjusted correctly. The best would be to get an aftermarket CDI like an Advent. They have programmable timing curves built into them which are designed to optimize the timing at different RPMs.
 
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