Stop switch won't turn off idling ski-confirming diagnosis

McDog

Other Administrator
Staff member
Location
South Florida
Sold my ski. Get a call later saying ski won't shut off. He started it out of water to blow out exhaust but then stop button wouldn't work. He pulled one plug wire but was getting shocked so he didn't get the other. He called me and I said back trailer down to water. That worked. He said it was just idling but wouldnt turn off. Stopped fine for me on trailer yesterday.

I said it has to be start stop switch and said I would have jetmaniac send him one. Anyone think its something else?
 
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Dont you love when this type of stuff happens after selling a ski? Have him check the tabs in the start/stop connection leading to the ebox. Ive ran into almost 1/2 a dozen skis this year that either wont start or wont turn off due to those tabs being bent or crooked on the plug.
 

McDog

Other Administrator
Staff member
Location
South Florida
Thanks guys.

It's always three things.

1st. Test ride. Ski cuts off when doing slow left turns but otherwise perfect. Seems weird. Figure out it's almost out of gas and pickups are on right. Put more gas in and problem solved.

2nd. Bilge pump not working after next test ride over. Loose connection due to pushed in pin on weatherpak connection. Fix it and fine. Do paperwork and exchange money and leave.

3rd. Phone rings and......
 
my fake rickter with total loss sometimes doesn't stop when the lanyard is pulled or red button pushed. I put my hand over the exhaust outlet and choke the motor out. I had a superjet once that had a riva CDI. bad connection in the box and problem solved
 

DAG

Yes, my balls tickled from that landing
Location
Charlotte, NC
Likely the stop circuit in S/S switch has opened. Check continuity by ohming out the black and white wires on S/S switch side with lanyard in and pressing the red button. I recently had the same issue and ended up being my switch. You can get replacement OEM harness for cheap and only takes 5mins tops to bolt it into the existing housing
 

McDog

Other Administrator
Staff member
Location
South Florida
What exactly should reading be? No resistance or infinity with stop button/lanyard? I did rewire the ebox immediately before I sold it to him to switch out from total loss to 62t ignition so I guess something disconnected isn't impossible but it worked immediately afterwards so I doubt it. Buyer is coming by this weekend and we are figuring it out together. I have several known good sss's.
 

DAG

Yes, my balls tickled from that landing
Location
Charlotte, NC
I don't recall the resistance per say. It's probably spec'd out in the manual. When i checked mine I was just looking for it to open and close. If it doesn't do anything you found your problem.
 
I don't recall the resistance per say. It's probably spec'd out in the manual. When i checked mine I was just looking for it to open and close. If it doesn't do anything you found your problem.

That is what the manual says too. There is no resistance values listed. It just says
: Check
- Continuity
Out of specification ---> replace

:rolleyes: lol
 

JetManiac

Stoked
Site Supporter
Vendor Account
Location
orlando
Ebox side:
-Check continuity to ground on the black wire coming out of ebox first.
-Then start motor and jump the white wire on ebox harness to ground/black wire to make sure motor dies.

Start/stop side:
-Check for continuity between white and black while stop button is pressed or lanyard is pulled.
 

sjetrider

615 Freeriders are addicted to T1 madness.
Likely the stop circuit in S/S switch has opened. Check continuity by ohming out the black and white wires on S/S switch side with lanyard in and pressing the red button. I recently had the same issue and ended up being my switch. You can get replacement OEM harness for cheap and only takes 5mins tops to bolt it into the existing housing


Maniac, can you get me this "You can get replacement OEM harness for cheap and only takes 5mins tops to bolt it into the existing housing[/QUOTE]"
Didnt know this was an option.
 

Big Kahuna

Administrator
Location
Tuscaloosa, AL
Lol that's science right there Not every meter has the chirp function, haha.
damn, I forgot yours is from 1965!!!!!!!! LOL True!!!!!!!!!! I use to install 2 way radios. Always had to add the coax plug to the cables and solder them. Always used a meter with the "Beep" to test to make sure did not melt the insulation while soldering!!!!!!! Had to really heat the ends up on the thicker coax.....
 
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