Stripped OEM Driveshaft only 30 hours of use
- Thread starter Freakie
- Start date
- Location
- Denver, NC
Your spline engagement is way off. Not to say you don't have an alignment or some other issue, but it needs to be splined in deeper for sure. JetManiac has good info on this posted on here.
tks v much...JM already on it...trying to get a bit longer shaft, else I will have to use washers behind the engine coupler to push the new midshaft out more...AM hull.
even so...the breakdown of the splines seems rather odd imo. and also the very short space of time I got out of it....just trying to get some quality input from the guys who have seen it all before.
I have a cold fusion alignment tool so will be very careful on set-up of the new drive and mid shaft.
even so...the breakdown of the splines seems rather odd imo. and also the very short space of time I got out of it....just trying to get some quality input from the guys who have seen it all before.
I have a cold fusion alignment tool so will be very careful on set-up of the new drive and mid shaft.
- Location
- South Florida
I'd be willing to bet your midshaft is toast as well.
for sure..cant see in there clearly but, def throw away....cant take the risk....it let go in surf riding...at the worst of times as usual, so all new stuff coming but its a set back shaft and I need about 7 mm more in length...so will take JM a couple of weeks as he out of town.
- Location
- South Florida
You can put a washer on the coupler and also play with how deep the midshaft is pressed into the housing as well.
Tyler Zane
Open Your Eyes
- Location
- Panama City Beach, FL
I shove the midshaft as far as it goes everytime I touch one. Yamahas spec isn't the greatest and there is about 7mm more engagement gained from setting the midshaft deeper.
I normally use washers behind the midshaft coupler but on the last blaster shaft I did we found there is enough room in the mounts and bed plates to make up the difference.
I normally use washers behind the midshaft coupler but on the last blaster shaft I did we found there is enough room in the mounts and bed plates to make up the difference.
Big Kahuna
Administrator
- Location
- Tuscaloosa, AL
I lost a brand new midshaft and drive shaft at on of the Lanier rides. Had a total of 15 minutes on them. Bed plates or motormounts shifted causing motor to go way out of kilter.
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Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk
Proformance1
Liquid Insanity
- Location
- New York Crew
Alignment and shaft length both played into this wear. Imo.
Tyler Zane
Open Your Eyes
- Location
- Panama City Beach, FL
Shimming pump and engine takes me so long because I check it so many times. I've been fortunate to have never stripped a shaft.
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tks for the insights guys..... much appreciated...I think I will push the new midshaft on its own over the mounted pump and driveshaft as far as it will go.....mark the position on the midshaft relative to the bulkhead, and then push it into midshaft housing and try to use washers on coupler and engine back-spacing if needed, so i get maximum engagement that is possible....after that......remove it and get alignment perfect with cold fusion tool...sounds like a plan !
- Location
- South Florida
You need just a little less than maximum engagement or you end up with this:
......and it can bump your midshaft closer towards your engine and drop your coupler clearance.
......and it can bump your midshaft closer towards your engine and drop your coupler clearance.
Agreed. Best is 1/8-3/16" underlap to allow for movement.
- Location
- central florida
I think the spline wear was caused by "tired" o rings inside the mid shaft. Once they are worn- they become sort of flat at the shaft contact surface, - all the grease you might have put on the new drive shaft, washes away rapidly. Then, rapid wear occurs. Keep in mind, whenever you change pumps, you should remove the midshaft assy. to check for proper pump alignment- good time to replace those 2 o rings then.