Suggestions and thoughts on my setup and build

BombThreat

'Diggity
Location
Johnstown, NY
Just wanted to get your guy's thoughts on what I plan on doing. Also I don't have much of any good experience with glass, so methods and tips would be awesome. I have a Squarenose and plan on building it into a pretty good freeride/freestyle boat.

Here is what I have in the works for a drive line. Also looking for suggestions here!

-61X Big bore cylinder with freestyle porting by Jetworks. (Std. 84mm)
-62T cases ported and epoxied
-5mm RAD crank
-Dual Blackjack 46mm carbs
- Should I use stock FA or aftermarkets?
-Reeds *I was thinking either VF2's or 3's* Whats your thoughts?
-Intake manifold... RIVA? The new Waterdawg Intake?
-FP B- Pipe with Mod chamber
-Analog MSD TL
-ADA Girdled head most likely pump gas but also thinking about having another set of domes cut for 100 octane. Thoughts?

Impeller- Probably going with what Art @ Jetworks says but whats your guys suggestion? The boat will be used on a lake and for freestyle and riding around the lake.

Handle pole- I have a standard length AC pole, I was thinking about cutting 4" off and re-welding it? Sounds good or is it really with it NOW to purchase a Xmetal pole and convert? While on the subject, I already have a UMI bearing set I bought but never got the turn plate. Should I get the short turn and would a -1" or so be a good idea?

Hull related- I plan on reinforcing the hull. My plan is to fill the bond line with 4lb foam and then layer a sheet of 17oz biaxial and another layer of 8.7oz twill. Also adding strength to the hood seal area with the same method of filling the area with foam and then adding glass over it. Same with adding strength to the pole bracket area, gunwales and tray. Any other areas I should focus on and would the 17oz then 8.7 oz be good?

Foot wells- I have a set of Waterdawg REV's installed but I'm not happy with the glass work, so Im going to re-do them. Also is it worth moving the exhaust or would I just foam the wells really good so I cant feel the bulge? How should I glass them in? Multiple layers of 6oz or 8.7 oz?

Turf- I want my turf to be very comfortable. Hows the 25mm padding with the diamond cut?
 

SUPERTUNE

Race Gas Rules
Location
Clearwater Fl.
# 1 bad I see with your list...ANALOG MSD-TL!! Why?
Don't do it...get a new Pro Digital MSD-TL one!
Why would spend good money for a 5mm stroker crank and handicap the entire engine performance.... It's a good thing you asked, Count your lucky stars today!
And YOU should always ask YOUR engine builder what will work BEST with the engine HE's building for you...Nothing pisses me off more than a customer thinking HE knows how to build his engine setup more than you when he's paying you the engine builder to set it it with the right combination.
 
I run open F/A right now and am thinking about switching back to stock.

Actually, a single layer of 17oz biax would be plenty for most riders.

Yep, with my Rev's I used a few layers of 7oz biax. Worked great. In a couple spots I used slightly heavier cloth.
I lowered my exh. tube 3/4" and trimmed and re-glassed the foothold quite a bit to get it farther forward. I still wish mine were farther forward.

I LOVE the 25mm padding!
 
# 1 bad I see with your list...ANALOG MSD-TL!! Why?
Don't do it...get a new Pro Digital MSD-TL one!
Why would spend good money for a 5mm stroker crank and handicap the entire engine performance.... It's a good thing you asked, Count your lucky stars today!
And YOU should always ask YOUR engine builder what will work BEST with the engine HE's building for you...Nothing pisses me off more than a customer thinking HE knows how to build his engine setup more than you when he's paying you the engine builder to set it it with the right combination.

chuck seems a little testy today


but he is right
 

BombThreat

'Diggity
Location
Johnstown, NY
I like how you listed the 46 blackjacks before the auction was over....


Bastard.

:mad:

I was getting a set one way or another! PM me, I know where there is a set for $300.


Chuck- I understand your frustrations.. Im asking for suggestions here. Im open to everything and like to know my options available. But I am taking Art's word over anyones when it comes to the engine. Im using the Analog and 5mm stroked crank because those came with the superjet when I bought it. If I did not have these then more then likely I wouldn't have bought them alone. So I'm using what I have. I'm always able to "upgrade" to a programmable later.


wydopen- Im not at all thinking about doing things halfassed! I was planning on doing exactly what you said but someone else suggested using the foam instead because its better. But since posted this thread I think I decided to used resin + west 404 filler. Sound like a good idea?
 

wydopen

onthepipe
wydopen- Im not at all thinking about doing things halfassed! I was planning on doing exactly what you said but someone else suggested using the foam instead because its better. But since posted this thread I think I decided to used resin + west 404 filler. Sound like a good idea?

right on!! :cheer: a mix of 404 and 403 works best...
 

thegoldenboy

RN Surgery... soon
Location
Toronto
The bondline will get its strength from the cloth. I'd do foam in the bondline and 2 layers of 17oz. It will be plenty strong.

I'd pick and engine builder and let them put together a power package for you. Let it be their job to do it right. Don't worry about what componenets go into making a power package work. Call and talk to a few builders. Give them an idea of the power you're after, cc's, pure low end, low and mid, etc...


I'd be putting this into a roundnose hull if you can. More hood options, handlepole options, and if you ever need to sell down the road you'll get more for the ski if you didn't want to part it out. I'd part it out anyways.
 

BombThreat

'Diggity
Location
Johnstown, NY
thegoldenboy- thanks for the advice and suggestions. I dont plan on selling this jetski anytime soon. And if I ever out grow the square hull I'll just get a aftermarket.
 

thegoldenboy

RN Surgery... soon
Location
Toronto
If you can afford a roundnose hull now do it. A square hull is worthless. When you go to get your aftyermarket hull you'll than have a +500 trade in value for your hull opposed to nothing with the square.


Either you spend a bit more now, or a bit more later. I just think you'll be happier with a Roundnose hull. I ride mine better than I did my square. No reason, but it has a lighter "feel" to me... Probabaly because its not waterlogged like most squares.
 
# 1 bad I see with your list...ANALOG MSD-TL!! Why?
Don't do it...get a new Pro Digital MSD-TL one!
Why would spend good money for a 5mm stroker crank and handicap the entire engine performance.... It's a good thing you asked, Count your lucky stars today!
And YOU should always ask YOUR engine builder what will work BEST with the engine HE's building for you...Nothing pisses me off more than a customer thinking HE knows how to build his engine setup more than you when he's paying you the engine builder to set it it with the right combination.[/QUOTE]

i totally agree no one knows more then the company building and porting you motor.

btw im running arts 4 mil and love it. using bj 46s im running everything he wants down to tl curve prop ,pump ect.
 
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Big Kahuna

Administrator
Location
Tuscaloosa, AL
dont fill bondline/hoodseal area with foam..do it right and use thickened epoxy...why do it half assed??

Wamilton has been doing it this way for years............

how much weight does using solid epoxy add?? this is not an issue for a surf boat, but for a flat water boat that would seem to add more weight....

obviously setups are different depending on how the ski is going to be used........

Both will do the job.
 

wydopen

onthepipe
Wamilton has been doing it this way for years............

how much weight does using solid epoxy add?? this is not an issue for a surf boat, but for a flat water boat that would seem to add more weight....

obviously setups are different depending on how the ski is going to be used........

Both will do the job.

i cant imagine foam bonding the two halves together as well as filler..thats where most skis fail (aside from nose damage)..better safe than sorry..honestly i dont see it adding more than a couple lbs...i did one last night and its really not that much
 
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