Superfreak cooling lines.

long beach local

long beach local
Location
Az
I dont believe any metal has a long lifespan that has salt water (especially) passing through it , when it is in contact with carbon fibre . Fibreglass is a good insulator carbon fibre not so much... electrolosis? galvanic corrosion ? saltwater is very conductive and pure H20 is not . whatever its not a long term combination not a reliable forget about it setup . In my opinion insulating the metal from the carbon should help if and when i have to cut my tray open that is what i plan to do until then i willl just pound new 3/8 stainless tubing through the old 1/2 inch aluminum when necessary
 

Sanoman

AbouttoKrash
Location
NE Tenn
Did a poster on this thread mention heat shrink tubing over the lines? Seems like a good idea,but........??? What would be the drawbacks?
 
I'm pretty sure saltwater has much to do with speeding up the process! My ski is a 2010, and the one line I cut out was not corroded at all! That being said, I have only had my ski in salt water a few times.
 

just joe

Site Supporter
Location
NorCal
Old thread but issue lingers. I have a low hour ski, but some of the few hours were spent in Salt. Knew the lines had holes when I bought it and would need to get fixed.

Opening the tray, one of the lines were hanging by a thread, the end going into the carbon completely decayed. The other tube had several open wounds, in areas that wasn't in contact with carbon but did have carbon/epoxy spots. Impressive corrosion.

Replacing with 1/2" stainless .049 wall. Straight line in, wrestling with bending the S line... may go straight on it as well if I can't get the bends clean.



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long beach local

long beach local
Location
Az
I have many hours exclusively in salt water and In less than 1 year my full Carbon Freak sprung a leak in the tray . I have not opened the tray but simply used a long 3/8inch drill bit used for adding second cooling line (a kit used years ago) drilled from pump area straight thru on both sides tapped a new 3/8 inch thin walled stainless tube thru .This seems to work the same as the 1/2in tubing before although I am running 701 the motor gets more than enough cooling This fix could be accomplished again rather easily . I noticed my pissers are rotting away from the inside as well and will need replacement soon with anodized ones .
 

just joe

Site Supporter
Location
NorCal
Thank you for all the ideas sent my way to help out. I decided to try the SS tubing first and got it to work. Zoro sells a manual hand held bender that worked awesome on that 1/2" 049" wall stainless steel. Now to seal and suture back up!

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long beach local

long beach local
Location
Az
Hope you find a way to insulate the stainless from touching the Carbon (wrap with elctrical tape) Or ???? something to stop the electrical phenomenon. Tubes dont rot away near as quick in a fibreglass hull
 

Kohldanielzimmer

Sierra Nevada Runoff Rider
Site Supporter
Location
Ahwahnee, CA
I thought stainless was impervious (or at least highly resistant) to the corrosion that occurs betwixt carbon and aluminum, especially in the presence of saltwater as a catalyst?
 

just joe

Site Supporter
Location
NorCal
I know this may sound geeky, but...

Galvanic corrosion is not a significant problem with 316 stainless steel. We did some ASTM corrosion tests at work using simulated seawater (3.5% NaCl) and various current densities, and 316 performed well. The stainless tube I used has a galvanic corrosion rate of approx .002" per year with the current density of carbon fiber. Of course there are a lot of variables in that number, But I think it's safe to say the tube could last 20+ years submerged in saltwater. It has a higher resistance to corrosion than brass.

I do think the best solution is a 316 passivated stainless tube with an insulator or a thick wall pvc tube. But I'm convinced my freaks lines will now outlive the hull.
 
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just joe

Site Supporter
Location
NorCal
The brass alloy we tested was near .0026" per year. The challenge with lab SWAAT test results are the variables that we have in real life. Actual alloy, oxidation layer, manufacturing process, actual sustained PH, wall thickness, etc all impact results.
 

McDog

Other Administrator
Staff member
Location
South Florida
So my brass is .0006" per year more than stainless. I'm happy with that. Those brass fittings are pretty thick.
 
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