Superjet Build

East623

East623

Location
Social Circle, GA
Pro-pulsion said:
Most guys will get 3/8 long #8 if I remember correctly, stainless wood screws and set the holds into place with them. That's how I did it too and just glass over the screws. Once that thick bi-axial glass is in place along with the finished under padding and turf, you will never know they are there. For the epoxy resin, all you need is the 2 part mix...resin and hardening agent. West Systems makes a good one, East Systems does too. Make sure you pay attention to the details noted above each classification of hardener mainly for the proper curing time. If your weather is going to be in the 80* range then you should opt for the slow cure hardener to give you the time window needed for placement of the glass and workable pot life of the resin. It would not be good to have it curing to a firmness before you can fully apply it. Also, do use the separate pump systems they sell. The pumps are calibrated to give you the exact mix ratios per pump. One pump of resin to one pump of hardener. They are well worth the extra little cost and the piece of mind knowing your mix will always be proper. Here are a few links to look into...

Epoxy Resins:
http://www.uscomposites.com/epoxy.html
http://www.uscomposites.com/epoxy.html#west

Bi-axial Fiberglass:
http://www.uscomposites.com/specialty.html

As for the turf tip, I think what he means is that if you use something to take the inside shape of the foothold, you can use that as a template for how much turf and what shape to cut it out to. Thin cardboard worked for me like shoe box type of cardboard. It is very pliable and you get a pretty good idea of how a flat sheet will form inside the hold. You can then use that and trim and tune until you get a nice fit, then lay it onto your turf sheet and trace the outline to have your inside shape. A really good should do suggestion is to use under padding inside your holds. The padding will compress with use but is so much better on your feet. Under pad everywhere in them, under the tops around the toe area, the bridge portion of the foot, all the way back to where it trails off and becomes part of the hull side walls again and of course the bottoms. I have ridden skis with just turf between the feet and the hold...might as well not have had turf at all. Bruised feet, sore and quite difficult to come back from in terms of healing. Your feet are important things on standup skis, keep them happy :)
Click to expand...
I appreciate the advice more than you know. It's been hard getting a straight up answer. Are you mixing the resin to hardener at a 1:1 ratio? Can you change that to attain a slower set time or does it need to be a constant ratio? Do the UScomposite kits come with directions at all? I have maybe one day of fiberglass experience so I'm trying to learn a lot at once so I can get the best results possible.
 
East623

East623

Location
Social Circle, GA
motoman3000 said:
Exactly ^^^
Click to expand...
Pro-pulsion said:
Most guys will get 3/8 long #8 if I remember correctly, stainless wood screws and set the holds into place with them. That's how I did it too and just glass over the screws. Once that thick bi-axial glass is in place along with the finished under padding and turf, you will never know they are there. For the epoxy resin, all you need is the 2 part mix...resin and hardening agent. West Systems makes a good one, East Systems does too. Make sure you pay attention to the details noted above each classification of hardener mainly for the proper curing time. If your weather is going to be in the 80* range then you should opt for the slow cure hardener to give you the time window needed for placement of the glass and workable pot life of the resin. It would not be good to have it curing to a firmness before you can fully apply it. Also, do use the separate pump systems they sell. The pumps are calibrated to give you the exact mix ratios per pump. One pump of resin to one pump of hardener. They are well worth the extra little cost and the piece of mind knowing your mix will always be proper. Here are a few links to look into...

Epoxy Resins:
http://www.uscomposites.com/epoxy.html
http://www.uscomposites.com/epoxy.html#west

Bi-axial Fiberglass:
http://www.uscomposites.com/specialty.html

As for the turf tip, I think what he means is that if you use something to take the inside shape of the foothold, you can use that as a template for how much turf and what shape to cut it out to. Thin cardboard worked for me like shoe box type of cardboard. It is very pliable and you get a pretty good idea of how a flat sheet will form inside the hold. You can then use that and trim and tune until you get a nice fit, then lay it onto your turf sheet and trace the outline to have your inside shape. A really good should do suggestion is to use under padding inside your holds. The padding will compress with use but is so much better on your feet. Under pad everywhere in them, under the tops around the toe area, the bridge portion of the foot, all the way back to where it trails off and becomes part of the hull side walls again and of course the bottoms. I have ridden skis with just turf between the feet and the hold...might as well not have had turf at all. Bruised feet, sore and quite difficult to come back from in terms of healing. Your feet are important things on standup skis, keep them happy :)
Click to expand...
Also how much resin/hardener do you think I'll need to do my footholds?
 
Pro-pulsion

Pro-pulsion

Location
Ontario, Canada
It shouldn't take much to glass them in. To keep it extra strong a lot of guys will glass not only the holds but the space in between on the tray floor. The West System tallish thin can is the same size as the East System can I used and it went a long way. I reinforced a good part of my engine bay and handle pole area on one can of resin and hardener. That can give you a bit of an idea how far one can supply will go. It really depends on how much glass work you choose to do. For me personally, I don't mind paying a little bit more in the long run when buying the smaller quantities just because if I only need a little bit I am not stuck with a lot of unused product that might sit for years. You can always return what you don't need in the small cans if they are unopened and it could work out to be less cost in the end. But again, entirely your discretion on how much you think you will need.
 
Roseand

Roseand

The Weaponizer
Site Supporter
Location
Wisconsin
Have you already ordered Toby footholds? IMO tom21s are way more comfy.. I had 26mm padding top and bottom with them.. Absolutely loved them. If you went with Toby's already just make sure to pad the top more than the bottom.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
 
East623

East623

Location
Social Circle, GA
Is polyurethane foam what I should be looking for in a 2 part system to refoam the hull under and beside the tray? I saw the stuff on UScomposites.com but I also saw some at homedepot. The UScomp stuff is just urethane by the description and the Home Depot stuff is polyurethane
 
East623

East623

Location
Social Circle, GA
Any opinions on intake/reed setup for bottom end? Boyeson, V Force, reed stuffers? I'm not willing to do oversized carbs right now. Going to order a factory B pipe in the next few days with msd enhancer.
 
Pro-pulsion

Pro-pulsion

Location
Ontario, Canada
I couldn't justify the price of v-force reeds so I went with Boyesen pro series dual stage reeds and have been quite happy with them. I believe this is their third season now or fourth and no signs of stress or tension loss. I tried using the plastic R&D reed stuffers both on and off back to back and never found any benefit in performance. In fact I found the opposite with the stuffers, given the principal is sound, I believe the real benefit would come in with having a builder fabricate custom stuffers according to your setup. There are a lot of mixed emotions on stuffers equally for and against. I strongly believe it comes down to setup and engine attitude. They had a detrimental effect on my setup, but maybe not for yours. Chuck from XScream used to custom fabricate stuffers according to the build, my thoughts are that he too would recommend against mass produced products just because there really is not a one size fits all application for them. For carbs, if you are running stock then the two most impressive things you can do is jet according to the pipe manufacturer's specifications, remove the choke butterflies, and plug the holes where the shafts came out...save one hole on each carb though for a primer fitting if you have not already done so. The butterflies do a nasty job of impeding airflow, removing them lets the engine breathe the way it needs to for the bigger pipes requiring more airflow to perform accordingly.
 
JetManiac

JetManiac

Stoked
Site Supporter
Vendor Account
Location
orlando
East623 said:
Any opinions on intake/reed setup for bottom end? Boyeson, V Force, reed stuffers? I'm not willing to do oversized carbs right now. Going to order a factory B pipe in the next few days with msd enhancer.
Click to expand...

VForce reeds are the best performing setup because of their cage design which uses 2 rows of reeds instead of the single row others use. Much better performance and low end response. They are well worth the money compared to the others in our skis and in feedback from our customers. Also the VF2 fit better with the stock dual 38 manifold.
 
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