Super Jet superjet desperate - spark no start

B

bhy

Location
plymouth mi
I know this has probably been harped on over and over but Im looking for some good directions here. I have a 2004 SJ that was running great all day. Hit the stop button and went to fire it back up and all it did was turn over, but never would fire up. After about 20 minutes of toying with it, she finally fired up. Ran her for about 10 minutes and then hit the stop button again and then the same thing all over again. Except this time got nothing. Replaced the starter Relay and now im back to it trying to start but wont. There is a spark. It tries to fire up with no plugs in when Im testing for spark, but as soon as i put the plugs in it struggles to even turn over. I have two extra, brand new, batteries ive tried. Any suggestions and especially directions....been working on it for a week and really dont want to take it in now.
 
Pablo

Pablo

sqeez bth levrs & lean bk
Site Supporter
Location
georgia
If it's got spark and was turning over fine and was running fine prior to this issue then it's got to be a fuel delivery issue. Either too much or not enough. My guess is too much based on symptoms u state. I'd block the inlet lines to the carbs and shoot some wd40 (or starting fluid) in the plug holes and reinstall and see if it fires. If it does then u need to run through ur fuel tank, lines, filters and lastly carbs.
 
Pablo

Pablo

sqeez bth levrs & lean bk
Site Supporter
Location
georgia
Most likey not an electrical problem if you've got consistent spark and nothing else had changed since it ran well. I assume you're in fresh water, so unless your timing has changed due to the stator slipping I would bet the electrics are fine. If compression was abnormally low then it would turn over with ease, so I'd look in another direction.
First thing, use a fresh battery (and plugs) and have a backup charged and ready.
Does it turn over normal or faster than normal with plugs out? If yes look for spark.
Does it have consistent spark? If yes then electrics are fine. If no, check plug wires/cut them back 1/2" and make sure plug boots are not corroded inside. If those don't correct spark issue, pull out ebox and start checking through it. Coil? U know relay is good. Is it wired up correctly? Fuse?
Does it turn over slow with fresh batt and plugs installed? If yes, could be bad starter, starter cables, or battery cables. If turns over normal look at fuel system.
Does it try to fire at all? If yes to trying to fire, pull the flame arrestor and see if you're getting too much fuel delivery from the carbs (dribbling fuel with starting = bad needle/seat). Check fuel lines for cracks, holes. Check fuel filters for debrid. Check fuel tank for debris and that pickups aren't against bottom of tank. Is tank vent working?

I know you've covered some of this already in your thread, but work systematically to rule out what is working and then it's easier to narrow it down. Do you have a pop off gauge for carbs? Might need one. Definitely need a compression gauge if you don't have one.
 
Last edited:
B

bhy

Location
plymouth mi
When it was turning over I did have the starter relay go out. I replaced it and it's just back to turning over. Could this be an indication of problems with the starter, starter wires, or battery wires. Thanks again.
 
B

bhy

Location
plymouth mi
I hooked up the compression tester, but just as if there is a spark plug in, Its having a hard time cranking, So i cant even get a reading. But when I take it off, and go to start it, it turns over. Could it be the starter?
 
tor*p*do

tor*p*do

Squarenose FTW
Site Supporter
Location
NW NC
If it is cranking slow, could be the cables. check power and ground cables
if they are OK, pull the starter and test it on the bench using a good battery and starter cables
 
tor*p*do

tor*p*do

Squarenose FTW
Site Supporter
Location
NW NC
you can pull tghe exhaust and do it
I would just pull the motor to access it
that way you dont have to replace gaskets, less of a headache, etc.
 
onedumbtrucker

onedumbtrucker

Now with 20% more pulp.
Location
London, ON
pabloescobar said:
Most likey not an electrical problem if you've got consistent spark and nothing else had changed since it ran well. I assume you're in fresh water, so unless your timing has changed due to the stator slipping I would bet the electrics are fine. If compression was abnormally low then it would turn over with ease, so I'd look in another direction.
First thing, use a fresh battery (and plugs) and have a backup charged and ready.
Does it turn over normal or faster than normal with plugs out? If yes look for spark.
Does it have consistent spark? If yes then electrics are fine. If no, check plug wires/cut them back 1/2" and make sure plug boots are not corroded inside. If those don't correct spark issue, pull out ebox and start checking through it. Coil? U know relay is good. Is it wired up correctly? Fuse?
Does it turn over slow with fresh batt and plugs installed? If yes, could be bad starter, starter cables, or battery cables. If turns over normal look at fuel system.
Does it try to fire at all? If yes to trying to fire, pull the flame arrestor and see if you're getting too much fuel delivery from the carbs (dribbling fuel with starting = bad needle/seat). Check fuel lines for cracks, holes. Check fuel filters for debrid. Check fuel tank for debris and that pickups aren't against bottom of tank. Is tank vent working?

I know you've covered some of this already in your thread, but work systematically to rule out what is working and then it's easier to narrow it down. Do you have a pop off gauge for carbs? Might need one. Definitely need a compression gauge if you don't have one.
Click to expand...

That's a great writeup of the troubleshooting process. Should post that in the TechFAQs.
 
Pablo

Pablo

sqeez bth levrs & lean bk
Site Supporter
Location
georgia
I would try a different starter (spare one from a bud or a replacement). Your starter works under no load with plugs out and on the bench with no load. It sounds as though it's an electrical delivery issue either battery, batt cables/terminals, or starter.

A backup starter is a must to have. DO NOT BUY AN AFTERMARKET STARTER. OEM ONLY!!!
There's a list of parts I try to stockpile. S/S switch, starter, battery, plugs, fuel lines and filters. That way when one goes bad (they always end up doing) you'll have a backup to keep riding and can order a replacement as a backup.
 
B

bhy

Location
plymouth mi
Ill order one, any suggestions where to get the best price? Thanks so much for your help!!!!!!!! Ill swap that and all battery cables. Does it matter if I use 4 gauge wire for the battery cables? I took the front cover to the flywheel off just to make sure it looked alright. Is there anyway to make sure the bendix is still in good shape. The teeth on everything look ok. Also, I wanted to ask...I swapped the battery cables and it seemed to try to start a little stronger, but the starter was getting really really hot really fast. Good chance its the starter? Like I said Ill order one anyway. Any suggestions on where to order a crankcase gasket also, and what kind of sealant do you recommend when reinstalling.
 
Pablo

Pablo

sqeez bth levrs & lean bk
Site Supporter
Location
georgia
Starters get hot. They turn alot of torque so it requires lots of free flowing juice from the battery. You need fat gauge wires. I don't know the exact correct gauge. I think you can buy similar wires from Overton's or similar marine supply stores...or you can order new OEM (pricey) from xtremepowersports.com. I think Steve UK on here has stocked some ATP aftermarket battery cables that I'm sure are good. All ATP stuff seems top notch. A brand new OEM starter is outrageously priced. I'd go to Ebay and hunt a used one in good condition. Search under various Yamaha pwc models...Blaster, Waverunner, Wavejammer, WaveRaider, etc... $40-60 is reasonable. New OEM = $200+!!! PM Jetmaniac for any and all gaskets. Possibly a starter too. I use hondabond/yamabond for gasket sealant or 1211. You'll have to remove the flywheel to inspect the bendix. 17mm socket, flywheel puller and torque wrench for reinstall.
 
B

bhy

Location
plymouth mi
Is it worth taking the flywheel off to look at the bendix? Is it typical to see a bad starter turn with no load?
 
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