Superjet Dry pipe no EWI

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superjetchet21

Location
United States
Hey guys I have this Factory dry pipe on my RN Superjet my EWI took a crap. I want to ride it for the remainder of the season and just want it to run somewhat well. What are my best alternatives a flow valve? Or something? I was at my lake house and the water box was hot as F$&k! Cause the EWI goes to the stinger so for the time being I just tapped off cylinder cooling line to feed the stinger/water box which cooled it but it just has no performance obviously I’m open to all suggestions boys. ******I’m getting rid of this pipe after the season so who ever reads this and knows anyone who wants it let me know!
 

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V

Vortex

Location
Southeast
The pisser's should never be tee'd.
I would run a tee on one of your cooling INLET lines (assuming you have dual cooling which you should) and run a hose to the stinger with a restrictor jet. This is how the r&d dry pipe designed their cooling routing and it would be the same procedure for an ecwi solenoid.
 
S

superjetchet21

Location
United States
Vortex said:
The pisser's should never be tee'd.
I would run a tee on one of your cooling INLET lines (assuming you have dual cooling which you should) and run a hose to the stinger with a restrictor jet. This is how the r&d dry pipe designed their cooling routing and it would be the same procedure for an ecwi solenoid.
Click to expand...
What type of restrictor jet?
 
V

Vortex

Location
Southeast
A mikuni carb jet. I'd probably start with a 150 or so. There are fittings you can get to hold it in line. (You can also get other types of water restrictors with plastic inserts of various sizes). Flow control is not the same thing. That just allows water flow through it once a certain line pressure is reached. It's not uncommon to see both of these items used together.

The main thing is the carb jet will slow the water flow to the stinger and not starve your engine of cooling water since you're tee'ing into an inlet line. And it's also a tuning item for the pipe
 
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hornedogg79

hornedogg79

dodgin' bass boats
I have mine setup exactly like my power factor lay down pipe minus the flow control valve. 2 feeds in the manifold, 1 out of head going overboard, the other into bottom inlet on chamber. Top bung feeds the stinger with a 120main jet in it. Outlet near stinger goes overboard. Works great for me without ewi. Bump up compression and advance timing a few degrees and you'll never miss a b pipe.
 
V

vcolf

dual solenoids seem weird unless you are using a module that would have the mani solenoid rpms on/off way different than the stinger. I would keep a steady flow to the stinger with the exception of flow control if you want. For the mani, talk to your engine builder on what rpms it should be on/off


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Mobile Chernobyl

Mobile Chernobyl

Location
1 Mile High in Colorado
I run a needle valve for adjusting flow currently to the stinger on this pipe. Love it - has been flawless and I will occasionally still check waterbox and exhaust tube temps to make sure flow is as expected.

I'm going to try this non-ewi mod - Now that I've ridden my dry pipe quite a bit I do notice the lack of bottom and the vague transition from off-idle to 1/4 throttle that this pipe gives without the water injection. Hoping that the 'dumb' injection vs. the complicated EWI system (that from my research, only seems destined to eventually crap out) will give that bottom end a bit of a boost! I had this same idea after seeing the various big bore dry pipes use a constant water injection through a pilot jet, so I'm happy to see someone guinea pig it with good results!

From what I've gathered in this thread - it's best to take the water injection to header feed directly from one of my 2 bulkhead fittings (coming right from the pump)? i.e. put a T in one of those two lines (that both feed the pipe's header) and throttle that supply into the water injection nipple? I plan on using a needle valve there too - although it may behoove me to either put an inline filter there before the needle valve or just take the simple route of using the quick disconnect Zigler posted so it's easy to clean... not sure which route is the more robust one...

Frankly the beauty of the classic 2 stroke superjet is the simplicity of not having advanced electronics to rely on just for the damn thing to run - with the exception of the ECU of course but I can deal with that. Partially the reason I recently bought a 2000 Kawasaki KDX 200 (dirtbike) so I could have a 'dumb' bike as backup for my smart 2020 bike haha.
 
S

Storbeck

Location
Minnesota
Mobile Chernobyl said:
I run a needle valve for adjusting flow currently to the stinger on this pipe. Love it - has been flawless and I will occasionally still check waterbox and exhaust tube temps to make sure flow is as expected.

I'm going to try this non-ewi mod - Now that I've ridden my dry pipe quite a bit I do notice the lack of bottom and the vague transition from off-idle to 1/4 throttle that this pipe gives without the water injection. Hoping that the 'dumb' injection vs. the complicated EWI system (that from my research, only seems destined to eventually crap out) will give that bottom end a bit of a boost! I had this same idea after seeing the various big bore dry pipes use a constant water injection through a pilot jet, so I'm happy to see someone guinea pig it with good results!

From what I've gathered in this thread - it's best to take the water injection to header feed directly from one of my 2 bulkhead fittings (coming right from the pump)? i.e. put a T in one of those two lines (that both feed the pipe's header) and throttle that supply into the water injection nipple? I plan on using a needle valve there too - although it may behoove me to either put an inline filter there before the needle valve or just take the simple route of using the quick disconnect Zigler posted so it's easy to clean... not sure which route is the more robust one...

Frankly the beauty of the classic 2 stroke superjet is the simplicity of not having advanced electronics to rely on just for the damn thing to run - with the exception of the ECU of course but I can deal with that. Partially the reason I recently bought a 2000 Kawasaki KDX 200 (dirtbike) so I could have a 'dumb' bike as backup for my smart 2020 bike haha.
Click to expand...



Where are you seeing somebody ran water injection in the pipe in this thread? I might have missed something but I'm only seeing discussion about the stinger, not injecting in the manifold like people who run pfp pipes wet.

Seems like it should work though.
 
Mobile Chernobyl

Mobile Chernobyl

Location
1 Mile High in Colorado
@Storbeck Posts #11 and #12 reference it - plus the PFP pipe water diagram (below) referenced in post #9 (but not shown) has the water routed how I'm inquiring.

EWCI to the stinger only seemed weird - but these pipes (factory dry) use the ewci for manifold injection so I've been interested in folks who are using the PFP style manifold injection vs. EWCI and what their results are - since I want to keep it simple.

index.php
 
S

Storbeck

Location
Minnesota
Post 11 and 12 are talking about using EWCI in the normal way that EWCI is used with an electronic controller turning the water in the pipe on and off.

Number 9 is describing running a dry pipe with no water injection at all other than the stinger, which is also what the diagram shows, and it sounds like that's what you're already doing, no?


All kinds of people are running pfp pipes wet with a spray bar in the manifold (including me) so I see no reason why a spray bar injecting water constantly into some other dry pipe wouldn't work... but I'm not seeing anywhere in this thread where somebody is saying they've done it, that's all I was pointing out.
 
V

Vortex

Location
Southeast
Ecwi is not that complex really (of course the internal workings of the unit are). a msd unit with the stock settings works pretty well for a ski that's running around a race course. And yes you want cold water going into the solenoid. Ecwi will make these older race pipes hit harder in the mid-upper Rpm range and rev more. The idea is (In laymans terms) it shuts off water flow to your manifold ports at low and high rpm ranges, unlike a constant system. Ecwi also has a pulsating range that can be programmed which you won't get from a constant flow. The instructions for one of the msd units are online or were at one time. You can read those for a more detailed explanation of what it does
 
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fastgtfairlane

fastgtfairlane

Location
Charlotte, NC
actually the electronic water injection will make the dry pipes hit harder on the low end. typically the drypipes make more power in upper rpm range and make less bottom end so the ecwi will make the difference. i bought a msd water injection set up that came with everything but the spraybar. ive never tried it. there was another company making ewci setups mostly for seadoos that had one that had 2 solenoids like the OP does. one for the manifold and for the stinger. you would set it up for the manifold to start spraying water just off idle until around 5-5500rpm then it would start pulsating for another 1-1500 rpm until the engine was completely on the pipe then it would shut off. the stinger would come on between 1500-2500 rpm and stay on all the way through. if youre interested in the water injection setup i have ill make a deal on it cause ill probably never use it.
 
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