Superjet "free" mods list - add yours!

[Polish jet pilot]

Hi all,

I just got a RN and was thinking that maybe a list of "free mods" (that do not require purchase of aftermarket parts, only some hardware, tools and/or chemicals) would be nice for all those who spent all their funds on the ski and have no $$$ to buy aftermarket stuff immediately:loser:. Please keep it LOW BUDGET. I would divide this into 3-4 categories (hull, steering+handling, engine (intake, exhaust, electrical, pump, other?) for easy reference. Please add your VERIFIED/TESTED idea:

I. HULL

- shorten oem pole (cut it with saw/ grinder) - cost: time
- OEM chinpad weight removal and strenghtening - cost: time, metal plate, some sponge type material, small piece of hydroturf
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II. Steering

- quick steer mod at nozzle (extend OEM mounting of bolt) - cost: time, metal plate
- changing the bolt position at the steering plate
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-

III. PUMP

- getting rid off the OEM fountain that sprays your A$$ while riding - cost: time, plate to cover OEM holes
- blueprinting (smoothing out the pump area from factory castings) - cost: time, power tool, grinding hardware
- Nozzle boring (better low end punch) - cost: time, 15-25 usd in machine shop, or do it yourself.
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-

IV. ENGINE

- removal of 1-2 filter screens in OEM intake (better airflow) - cost: time
- engine porting - cost: time, power tool, griding hardware, top end gasket kit
-
-

 

[sxi4evr]

D cut rideplate

 

[SXIPro]

lighten flywheel

 

[vjhardcore]

DO search ! This has been done 100 times. Lots of excellent info on your exact question.

 

[ridethelip]

IV. ENGINE

- removal of 1-2 filter screens in OEM intake (better airflow) - cost: time
And Then..........
Cost:Time and money after you roll the ski while riding and it devours that random bolt bouncing around in the hull because the screen was removed.

 

[Sospikey]

IV. ENGINE

- removal of 1-2 filter screens in OEM intake (better airflow) - cost: time
And Then..........
Cost:Time and money after you roll the ski while riding and it devours that random bolt bouncing around in the hull because the screen was removed.

Uhm...there are 3 to start with. Removing 1 or 2 could MAYBE allow a M2 or M3 bolt through, but that's pushing it. Riding WITHOUT screens, now that's another story.

 

[WAB]

If running stock CDi or MSD, advance the timing at the stator.
Turn CCW about 3cm or so.

 

[yankeeboy]

quick steer mod for pump - move steering ball joint inward closer to nozzle

 

[Waternut]

I would consider porting a fairly risky "free mod".

I would also say that one of the best free mod you're going to get is makig sure your carb is tuned properly.

 

[tightithrash]

plug the front air holes on a stock hood and widen rear.

Home made limiting rope.

 

[Polish jet pilot]

Great! Keep them coming!

About the ball joint at the nozzle: I understand why you would move it closer to nozzle, but not sure why you can buy "extenders" that actually take the ball joint further from the nozzle... do they do the same job? And one costs, the other doesn't?

 

[SuperFun]

The extenders for the nozzle ball joint seem to do the opposite of what you want for freestyle.

When you move the ball closer to the nozzle, drill the hole close to the front (towards the nose of the ski) of the nozzle arm to minimize the adjustment needed to the steering cable.

I. HULL

reinforce, tow loops, hood straps, seal front holes in hood

-
II. Steering

handlepole limiting rope, pad on hood to protect handlepole from coming down hard


IV. ENGINE

flush kit

 

[Polish jet pilot]

good tips! keep them coming - we could throw this afterwards into tech section for future reference.