Superjet - handle pole pivot bolt problem

[SuperJet-Dave]

I have been tightening the bolt on the pivot bolt to get a tight handle pole that stays in the position you leave it in. The handle pole is now un-centered and is scraping paint from one side of the hood and handle pole. (it is an aluminum UMI pole). I went to loosen the pivot bolt nut, to remove it and maybe insert a spacer bushing of sorts to re-center the handle pole. The nut only loosens ~2 turns, then just will not budge. I then try to tighten it back to where it was, and cannot get there. Full tighten is now a very loose handle pole action. Ugh!
I tried all the leverage/weight I can get. Tried WD-40. Tried hammering the wrench. All no help, and really do not want to cause damage.
Any tricks, suggestions?

 

[Big Kahuna]

spray PB Plaster on the nut and let sit, keep spraying, may take a few days or even a week. use a cheater bar for leverage. you need a dogbone spacer inside the pole, when you were tightening it up, all you are doing is compressing it, it may hold for a while but odds are it was getting loose again.

 

[vomitspot]

heat will also help

 

[SuperJet-Dave]

spray PB Plaster on the nut and let sit, keep spraying, may take a few days or even a week. use a cheater bar for leverage. you need a dogbone spacer inside the pole, when you were tightening it up, all you are doing is compressing it, it may hold for a while but odds are it was getting loose again.

Yah, I was having to re-tighten the nut after each ride. Am trying the PB Blaster now.
I see the dog bone spacer on the Blowsion website. I assume you get rid of the spring, and the dog bone spacer protects the base of the pole from damage from over tightening? Or is there some other purpose?

 

[SuperJet-Dave]

heat will also help

Thanks. Will try a torch if the PB Blaster doesn't do the trick.

 

[Big Kahuna]

yes, keeps the pole from compressing. lose the spring.

 

[SuperJet-Dave]

I used the PB Blaster and my largest crescent wrench for leverage. Got the nut moving, and after a turn or 2 the nut started to move easier. Then I realized that the nut was not moving on the bolt. Must have stripped the threads on the nut or bolt or both. Arrrg. With more than an inch of thread to go to remove the nut... kind of screwed. I'll be really impressed if anyone has ideas for this one...

 

[SuperJet-Dave]

I used the PB Blaster and my largest crescent wrench for leverage. Got the nut moving, and after a turn or 2 the nut started to move easier. Then I realized that the nut was not moving off the bolt. Must have stripped the threads on the nut or bolt or both. Arrrg. With more than an inch of thread to go to remove the nut... kind of screwed. I'll be really impressed if anyone has ideas for this one...

I have tried getting a screwdriver between the nut and washer and getting some horizontal pressure while wrenching it. No help.
I am out of good ideas, and am thinking my only option is to cut the nut or bolt, and replace with new ones. I am thinking the nut and bolt are likely fairly hardened steel. Any experience/suggestions how to do this successfully?

 

[Big Kahuna]

plasma cutter.

 

[TheBuzzard]

when the pole is not centered, its because the crown is not adjusted. center the pole and tighten the 4 or 6 bolts on the underside of the crown, above the gas tank.
if you had a small cut off wheel on a die grinder, you could diagonally cut the nut top and bottom and split it off there. that would save the bolt. the threads are probably chewed where the nut is , but with some spacer washers and another nut its a simple fix.

 

[SuperJet-Dave]

plasma cutter.

Plasma cutter would do the trick. Just do not have one. Which is probably good, since with the luck I am having on this, I would probably cut through the bracket and water box. ;-(

 

[SuperJet-Dave]

when the pole is not centered, its because the crown is not adjusted. center the pole and tighten the 4 or 6 bolts on the underside of the crown, above the gas tank.
if you had a small cut off wheel on a die grinder, you could diagonally cut the nut top and bottom and split it off there. that would save the bolt. the threads are probably chewed where the nut is , but with some spacer washers and another nut its a simple fix.

Thanks. Using a small cut off wheel did the trick in removing the nut. And with your suggestion, I should be able to save the bolt (surprised that the bolt is hollow).
I did not have much play in moving the bracket (I assume that is what you mean by crown), so I may end up inserting some washers to fully re-center. The bushing on the side I need to move to center was worn some, so a new bushing will help as well.
Thanks again!

 

[user_error]

RRP aluminum bolt I assume, I am not a fan of them. OEM stainless is the only way to go. Be sure to use plenty of anti sieze when reassembling with the spacer piece as mentioned above, especially if the nut and the bolt are dissimilar metals.

 

[Big Kahuna]

You can remove the bracket and take a file and notch the holes some to "move the pole to center". But you need to put something in the hole to keep the bracket from sliding back into its original spot. Think I used a piece of a zip tie when I was running an AC pole with billet bracket.

 

[SuperJet-Dave]

RRP aluminum bolt I assume, I am not a fan of them. OEM stainless is the only way to go. Be sure to use plenty of anti sieze when reassembling with the spacer piece as mentioned above, especially if the nut and the bolt are dissimilar metals.

I might consider replacing the pivot bolt just to be safe. The OEM Yamaha pivot bolt is $57. I can get the same size hex stainless steel (18-8 grade?) bolt for $6 from boltdepot.com. Any idea if there might be difference in strength, hardness, etc?

 

[SuperJet-Dave]

You can remove the bracket and take a file and notch the holes some to "move the pole to center". But you need to put something in the hole to keep the bracket from sliding back into its original spot. Think I used a piece of a zip tie when I was running an AC pole with billet bracket.

Great suggestion. I considered this, but decided against it for the reason you noted (might eventually slide back). Your simple solution is perfect! Thanks.

 

[user_error]

You cannot get the same size bolt for $6 unfortunately because the oem bolt is m14x1.5 and not typically manufactured in the length needed for our applications, especially with such a short threaded section. Impossible to find a replacement for that specific size and length except through vendors who sell oem ones or vendors who manufacture their own SS ones such as fast elements.

 

[SuperJet-Dave]

You cannot get the same size bolt for $6 unfortunately because the oem bolt is m14x1.5 and not typically manufactured in the length needed for our applications, especially with such a short threaded section. Impossible to find a replacement for that specific size and length except through vendors who sell oem ones or vendors who manufacture their own SS ones such as fast elements.

Seemed to good to be true. Thanks for setting me straight!

 

[SuperJet-Dave]

Seemed to good to be true. Thanks for setting me straight!

This one seems so close. Seems to match the size of the aluminum bolt I removed. https://www.boltdepot.com/Product-Details.aspx?product=9009 :-(

 

[High Speed Industries]

This one seems so close. Seems to match the size of the aluminum bolt I removed. https://www.boltdepot.com/Product-Details.aspx?product=9009 :-(

I have the pole bolt you need in stock. I can get you setup with the spacer as well. It's just best to do it right the first time and be done with it. A fresh set of pole bushings wouldn't be a bad idea either. Shoot me a pm if you want to get dialed in.