Superjet hard to start in the water. Any ideas?

Hey guess just took the skis out for the first time yesterday. One of the superjets that I picked up over the winter is tough to get started once it is in the water. You have to hold the throtle wide open and crank and crank on it before it starts trying to start. It has dual 44mm buckshot carbs on it. When i bought it the carbs were set up for sea level elevation and i ride at about 2500 ft. So i put the same size jets i have in my other ski with a very similer setup (same size carbs, R&D pipes, ADA head, ect) Set the high and low speeds to the factory settings and it fired right up in the shop. But once it got on the water it was a pain to get it started. I dont like cranking and cranking on it as the OEM starters are expenssive. Any advice? By having to hold the throttle wide open suggest that it isnt getting enough fuel and i need to open up the low speed adjustment more? Any help, ideas, or shots in the dark would be great.
 

cosander

Dallas/Fort worth
Hey guess just took the skis out for the first time yesterday. One of the superjets that I picked up over the winter is tough to get started once it is in the water. You have to hold the throtle wide open and crank and crank on it before it starts trying to start. It has dual 44mm buckshot carbs on it. When i bought it the carbs were set up for sea level elevation and i ride at about 2500 ft. So i put the same size jets i have in my other ski with a very similer setup (same size carbs, R&D pipes, ADA head, ect) Set the high and low speeds to the factory settings and it fired right up in the shop. But once it got on the water it was a pain to get it started. I dont like cranking and cranking on it as the OEM starters are expenssive. Any advice? By having to hold the throttle wide open suggest that it isnt getting enough fuel and i need to open up the low speed adjustment more? Any help, ideas, or shots in the dark would be great.
Doesn't full throttle mean more air less fuel during start up?
 

SUPERTUNE

Race Gas Rules
Location
Clearwater Fl.
Sounds like the carbs are flooding to me.
Are they the billet Buckshots or the aftermarket mikuni's reworked?
If they're the billets, they made an early design and a late design, the early ones used a Holley needle valve and the later ones use the std Mikuni needle valve. If you have the early models, just junk them out, if the later models, replace the needle valve assemblies with only new OEM Mikuni replacements, use the same new OEM Mikuni needle valves for the std mikuni body carbs as well.
 
Sounds like the carbs are flooding to me.
Are they the billet Buckshots or the aftermarket mikuni's reworked?
If they're the billets, they made an early design and a late design, the early ones used a Holley needle valve and the later ones use the std Mikuni needle valve. If you have the early models, just junk them out, if the later models, replace the needle valve assemblies with only new OEM Mikuni replacements, use the same new OEM Mikuni needle valves for the std mikuni body carbs as well.

They are the aftermarket mikuni's reworked. The needles looked good but should i try changing them out? Thanks for the input
 

ger87410

How did I get here?
Location
Fort Worth
My 550 does the same thing.

Everyone was blaming it on the stock carb. Luckily, Wayne's got a mikuni carb for me that I'm getting in a few weeks. :smile:
 

ger87410

How did I get here?
Location
Fort Worth
U using the choke? If not, verify the choke plate is removed or stuck open.

Do both SJ's have the same carb? Can you swap carbs and see if the problem stays with the carb?
 

ger87410

How did I get here?
Location
Fort Worth
If I was you, I'd swap carbs and see if the problem is in the carb, or the engine.

Please post results of that test. I'm very interested in them. :smile:
 

dajnglst

Glass Happens
Location
Charleston SC
Sounds like the carbs are flooding to me.
Are they the billet Buckshots or the aftermarket mikuni's reworked?
If they're the billets, they made an early design and a late design, the early ones used a Holley needle valve and the later ones use the std Mikuni needle valve. If you have the early models, just junk them out, if the later models, replace the needle valve assemblies with only new OEM Mikuni replacements, use the same new OEM Mikuni needle valves for the std mikuni body carbs as well.

Just as he put it, i would inspect the o-ring around the needle valve. The one that seals up the needle seat body and the carb. Blow out body filters also. I have seen more bad pwc carbs this year than any other time. I am not certain what is being used to blend the ethanol into the gasoline, but it sure seems as though it has been deteriorating rubber seals and o-rings faster.
 
Just as he put it, i would inspect the o-ring around the needle valve. The one that seals up the needle seat body and the carb. Blow out body filters also. I have seen more bad pwc carbs this year than any other time. I am not certain what is being used to blend the ethanol into the gasoline, but it sure seems as though it has been deteriorating rubber seals and o-rings faster.


Filters are all cleaned out when i reassmbled them this winter. All the gaskets looked good, but ill open them up and re-examin.
 
maybe the jetting/needles are too fat


have you tried leaning the low speed screws a little bit?

That was my next move. Because once it gets started it is loaded up for like 3-5 seconds then it cuts lose. I was going to lean them off and see if that helps before i pull the carbs out. I was thinkin about crankin them in about a half turn and seeing where im at. Then we will go from there.
 
Be careful adjusting your needle more then 1/8th a turn!!!


Thats a big ten four rubber duck thanks for the heads up. The run of lack of carb problems has finally caught up to me. I dreeded this day coming.
 
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