Superjet Hood seal?

i like that fact that its on the hood... but with the squarenose, i had to bend the hooks up so i could get the hood on, and when i ratchet it down, the hooks arent even touching... but it seems to keep the water out so im happy
 
Location
NorCal
do you mean the hooks on the hood, or the catches on the hull had to be bent?

I have an issue where my hood catches my seal at the very front as I put it on, which folds it up and makes a sub-optimal seal... I was going to try this since it is a different approach and might seal better, but it sounds like it might not work out that way...
 
I never went with the "Surf Seal" one because it doesn't work with some of the after market hoods. At least it won't my wamiltons lowered hood.

I've also seen the "surf seal" in person and wasn't overly impressed, didn't seem very thick. But, all that matters is that it keeps the water out. If it does... Thats all we ask for.
 
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I've been sitting here for a couple minutes and the one that it most closely resemblers is the 3/4 wide which is pretty spot on, then it's just a hair higher than 1/2.


The sh!itty part is, thats 2.37 a ft. If you'd like, I have 18" section left. I can cut off a small piece and mail it to you and you can do your own measurements.
 

john zigler

Vendor Account
Location
wisconsin
ive had both the watcon and the seal which attached to the hood. They both worked for me, but im going to run just a watcon seal on the hull because when you store the ski with the hood off you have to keep the hood upside down or somehow off the seal. after a while the seal gets squished and holds the shape. then its a pita to stuff it in the hood groove.

FYI

Style 10 is the watcon style seal
http://www.mcmaster.com/#bulb-seals/=hquttl


Style 1 is the hood seal.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#bulb-seals/=hquttl


As for what size to get. i just measured my hood and the groove the best i could to make a guess on the dimensions of the seal. Made my best guess and it worked fine. the watcon style seal is obviously easier to figure out the size (just measure the width of the hood groove) as for the clamp on bulb seal, you need to figure out the thickness of the hood and how big you want the bulb. i found you dont want the bulb too big or its tough to stuff in the groove, but you also have to remember when you tighten the hood down it will squish down and expand in the groove.

i would like it to be known, our WATCON hood seal is Guaranteed to be better quality than ANY mcmaster carr seal.....

We source these from the OE supplier to Polaris for the original Octane hood seal. I remember Randy trying other less expensive type of materials with poor results.

I just don't want anyone thinking, "if" you get a seal from somewhere else, it would be equal quality wise to our seal. remember the old saying "you get what you pay for"....

thank you. Zig
 

kcmasterpiece

Sweet Baby Ray's Sucks
Location
Daytona Beach
This is why i said "Watcon Style" and not " The Watcon" seal. ive bought the seal from watcon and i agree it is of good quality, but lately ive been going through hood seals like crazy because i cant leave well enough alone on my ski and keep tearing it down.

im not trying to bash Watcon or RCJS in anyway, just letting it known for people on a tight budget there are other options out there. i've personally had great luck with mcmaster carr products, but it should be fair to say the longest ive ran a mcmaster seal was one season. (6-8 months). this is a 100% surf boat also.
 
The McMaster Carr is NOT the same seal as the Watcon hood seal.
The Watcon hood seal is sourced from an Automotive OEM parts supplier that does not sell to wholesalers or public outlets.

There is a lot of research that went into a high quality seal material that has long life, retains it's shape, has the correct density, and doesnt break down from oil, air and water exposure. I also had it designed with "sticky back" adhesive to make installation easier. I realize that everybody wants (and needs) to save money, but the hood seal is priced low enough to focus your savings elswhere.

Sincerely,
Randy Jungwirth
 

SXIPro

JM781 Big Bore
I replaced my OEM hoodseal with 48 Stay Puft marshmallows layed end to end. It has been working surprisingly well and if I ever need a quick energy boost I just pop the hood and toss back a couple of those wonderful sugary treats.
 
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Location
NorCal
I have no problem paying for a quality product and appreciate the effort that watcon and others put into designing a proper seal. I recently replaced my oem yamaha seal with the $113 oem yamaha replacement, and have a second $113 oem yamaha seal sitting in my garage still in the plastic wrapping waiting to be installed - I am happy to pay for a good seal.

I have a weird issue with the WDK hook catches on my boat (the ones on the hull, not on the hood) that make the hood snag on the lip of the seal at the front when the hood is going on. So, I was considering buying several different ones from mcmaster to try out and see which might work given this weird set up.

I see now that mcmaster's "watcon style" seal is not the same as the legit watcon seal (as explained above, and evidenced by the fact that mcmaster does not offer the same size with adhesive back) so I will forgo that one from mcmaster and try out a real watcon seal. The adhesive backing alone is more than worth it to not have to deal with dremeling out glue if it does not work out given my set up.

thank you to everyone for the assistance and to watcon / weber guy for explaining the differences.

If I can't find a seal that works I will either opt for marshmallows, sausage links, or go back to the stock yamaha hood catches.
 
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I have no problem paying for a quality product and appreciate the effort that watcon and others put into designing a proper seal. I recently replaced my oem yamaha seal with the $113 oem yamaha replacement, and have a second $113 oem yamaha seal sitting in my garage still in the plastic wrapping waiting to be installed - I am happy to pay for a good seal.

I have a weird issue with the WDK hook catches on my boat (the ones on the hull, not on the hood) that make the hood snag on the lip of the seal at the front when the hood is going on. So, I was considering buying several different ones from mcmaster to try out and see which might work given this weird set up.

I see now that mcmaster's "watcon style" seal is not the same as the legit watcon seal (as explained above, and evidenced by the fact that mcmaster does not offer the same size with adhesive back) so I will forgo that one from mcmaster and try out a real watcon seal. The adhesive backing alone is more than worth it to not have to deal with dremeling out glue if it does not work out given my set up.

thank you to everyone for the assistance and to watcon / weber guy for explaining the differences.

If I can't find a seal that works I will either opt for marshmallows, sausage links, or go back to the stock yamaha hood catches.


You deff don't need to dremel anything. Just clean it the best you can. I took a flat head screw driver to it and got almost everything off. There is a couple very small clumps left which I was okay with. I just used the rubber cement and it's holding down fine. Im not trying to go to the moon or anything. Although that 100 million would be nice.
 
Location
NorCal
yeah I try to get ALL the glue off, I went through a bunch of dremel wire brush attachments. probably don't need to be as crazy about it as I am. If I go with the "surf seal" style that affixes to the underside of the hood, I would want a clean smooth surface to seal too, so getting the glue off in that case is more important.
 

runninAmuck

SuperJet Jake
Location
covina
i just bought a new hood seal from watcon. mark gomez (fearlessnuts) recommended the seal and i went with it. its easy to install and very tacky. i did mine when it was 80 degrees outside with some liquid cement for added stick and it keeps water out great. all i need to do was cut out a grove up front where the hood meets the prongs and it fit really nice. no problems with the watcon seal.
 

FlightPlanDan

Don'tTrustAfartAfter50
You deff don't need to dremel anything. Just clean it the best you can. I took a flat head screw driver to it and got almost everything off. There is a couple very small clumps left which I was okay with. I just used the rubber cement and it's holding down fine. Im not trying to go to the moon or anything. Although that 100 million would be nice.


LOL...That was my "glue removal method" as well. Used a flathead like a chisel....(carefully) . After that, on both skis, wiped out the channel with a rag & acetone.
Used nothing other than the adhesive tape after that. It's been good for at least 2 years so far. (that's why I posted earlier about prep...it's the hardest part)

I store with hoods on. Just gotta make sure that the hood is on correctly. The seal will hold the groove (after a while) So, especially in the beginning, gotta make sure!
(my skis stay outside..no garage..hoods must stay on)

The groove that was formed actually helps set the hood correctly. Still water tight.
 
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