Superjet Questions - SJ 2013

[Eric Villeneuve]

Hi guys,

Just a few questions in regards to a few modifications I will be undertaking.

1- I would like to modify my stock handle by cutting 4" shorter than its original length. I'm guessing the easiest way to do this is by removing the rivets at the base of the handle near the mounting bracket. The pole should probably be cut from the end that is closest to the nose of the ski as well right? What is the best way to cut this? A band saw is what I was thinking. Any pictures someone may have would help.


2-I'm installing a new nose cover that will no longer have the original holes as the stock nose piece. Do I need to ensure that I receive air from another inlet???? Or can I simply run it without any holes feeding air to the engine? Kind of skeptical about that.

3-I have installed the msd enhancer should I be running a heat sensor with it? Is it even worth it?? I don't believe my aftermarket head will allow this.

4-I'm installing frogskins on the underside of the hood has anyone ever done this? There is a plastic bracket that is riveted to the u/s of the hull which hold a rubber pipe with a pipe clamp. In order to install the frogskins I would have to cut this plastic pipe flush as the bracket cannot be takes out of the hull since there is maneuverability restrictions. Will I no longer need the use for those two pipes?

 

[SXIPro]

1) Here is a detailed thread: http://www.x-h2o.com/index.php?threads/how-to-shorten-your-stock-pole-pics.17612/
2) I think the openings at the back of your hood are sufficient
3)I don't think anyone runs the heat sensor with an MSD and certainly not with an AM head
4) I don't know what frogskins are.

 

[erik mx45]

no need for heat sensor, dont worrie about air intake on stock motor as much u will get plenty air in hood area,frog skins never seen the stuff

 

[speedysprocket]

Don't cut the tubes off the inside of the hood! They keep your ski from sinking if it's ever upside down in the water!

 

[schicks]

1.) Cutting the pole is easier at the bottom by the pivot if you plan to use 1/4-20 bolts or similar to re-attach it to the base instead of the rivets. Trimming the pole down on the handle bar side has advantages as well, it takes some of the arc out of the pole which I like. If you cut it at the handle bars, you will probably need to use rivets to re-attach to the plate since there is no access to put button head bolts in there (I have seen people trim some of the aluminum out of the way so they can run bolts instead of rivets). Somebody posted pictures of this a while ago.

2.)Are you running the stock hood still? air comes in through the front of the hood, not the nose piece. Another option is to close the air holes at the front of the hood and cut a couple extras at the back of the hood to compensate (pictured). this helps keep water out when doing fountains or submarines. You could also run air through pole tubes depending on your pole setup.


3.) Heat sensor could save a motor at some point if you don't notice a clog in the cooling lines or something. However, you are right, aftermarket heads do not have a spot to run it. Either cut the wires or zip tie them in a loop in case you decide to run it at a later date.

4.) listen to speedysprocket on the hood tubes; you want them. The reason being, if the ski is upside down dead in the water, there is no suction to keep water from coming in if you don't have the tubes (basically burps the air out and lets water flow in rapidly). If upside down with the tubes, the air wont burp out and allow water to flow in. Hydraulic pressure.

 

[Eric Villeneuve]

Guys thank you all for the information, very much useful and extremely helpful. Everything that you guys have posted makes sense and it clarifies my questions!

Thank you all!!!!!