superjet running on one cylinder(has reworked coil)

Gainera2582 · May 7, 2007

Will the connector from the store fit the spark plug boot I have? It seems this one is different than the automotive and msd ones(more like a spring).

Mouthfulloflake · May 7, 2007

yes, slide the boot over the wire BEFORE you solder./crimp the new end.

the new ends ive been using from parts store, have a better clip inside than the spring yamaha used.

Mouthfulloflake · May 7, 2007

seriously, yank that boot off, the spring will likely come with it, fish the spring out of the plug wire with pliars.

slide the boot down the wire.

trim bnack to fresh conductor wire inside, crimp the connector on, then pool solder in there with the good fresh spark plug wire in the connetor.

then slide your boot back over.

done.

Kaveman · May 7, 2007

Ok. You found a problem. Yes you can cut the wire back. It is rare for one side of the coil to quit so most likely this will solve the problem. You can use a crimp from an auto parts store or you can go to any motorcycle dealer and purchase new screw on style boots(BE CAREFUL NOT TO GET RESISTOR STYLE BOOTS CAUSING A NEW PROBLEM) or contact MSD and get a complete boot set that comes with instructions and a crimp tool. I use the MSD and they seal out water very good.

Congrats on the diag.

Mouthfulloflake · May 8, 2007

whats your address?

Ill mail you a couple of plug ends if you want.

I did this to wifes boat 2 weeks ago, I wish I had taken photo graphs!

:banghead:

Gainera2582 · May 8, 2007

Here Ill post the model:

http://www.parkeryamaha.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=17206

These should work right?

Thanks for the offer mouthfulloflake, if these won't work, Ill go that route.

Mouthfulloflake · May 8, 2007

that will work, but I just replace the metal connector inside, and re-use the yamaha red boot.

Mouthfulloflake · May 8, 2007

finally found a pic!

this is what I buy at the local Oreilly's for $0.24 each.

http://www.etco.com/item.php?l=e&sku=15143

Gainera2582 · Jun 3, 2007

Ok, I am getting spark, but now the problem just occurred again(I was able to ride the boat for about 3-4 hours before it occured again). Tested spark, and both cylinders are sparking, but I ran it for 4 min(idling, slight revs out of canal) and it was revving fine until I guess it heated up and started to act like it was on one cylinder. To note, my exhaust looks like it has black chunks coming out. And to further add to the problem, my boat couldn't start in the middle of the lake(battery is fine), but soon as I got in, it tried to start then all I heard was "bump bump from the electrical box."

These skis are a pain in the ass when things go wrong.

Any suggestions?

Thanks,

Aaron

D-Roc · Jun 3, 2007

Superjetjim said:
Have you checked the little tiny bucket filters in the carbs? - sounds like one is blocked to me and not allowing enough fuel into one of the cylinders - the other is trying to 'carry' the starving one.. you can hear it 'hardening off' in your video..

My ski has done this twice in the past - same thing both times, sounded and behaved just like yours - I run a JSS inline gas filter now.

Pull the carbs and have a look.. they get blocked up with fluff, hair and crap out of gas stations..

did you do this?

Gainera2582 · Jun 5, 2007

going to check things when I wake up. Keep the ideas coming!!!!

chart102 · Jun 5, 2007

Gainera2582 said:
going to check things when I wake up. Keep the ideas coming!!!!

totallly off topic, but what pisser outlet are u running?

Gainera2582 · Jun 5, 2007

chart102 said:
totallly off topic, but what pisser outlet are u running?

xmetal!!!

Gainera2582 · Jun 5, 2007

Ok, so I actually got motivated enough to work on it. Tried starting it, heard a buzz and then nothing. So I took the start stop switch apart, looked like their was some moisture in there, wd 40ed everything, wiped it up, dielectric grease on everything, sealed back up and it started. Problem 1 solved.

Problem #2 checked spark again, and I still get a fat blue consistent spark on the rear cylinder but nothing on the front cylinder( i saw it spark once). Now, i have cut this wire back before, tested to make sure it had spark before putting the boot on, and sure enough it had spark.

Any suggestions?

Thanks,

Aaron

Mouthfulloflake · Jun 6, 2007

stick an ohm meter in the good sparking wire ( in the plug terminal) , measure resistance between there and ground.

then check the non sparking wire. ( the wires go into the same coil) wiggle the bad wire while testing, it could have an open or bad strand area further up in the wire.

Gainera2582 said:
Ok, so I actually got motivated enough to work on it. Tried starting it, heard a buzz and then nothing. So I took the start stop switch apart, looked like their was some moisture in there, wd 40ed everything, wiped it up, dielectric grease on everything, sealed back up and it started. Problem 1 solved.

Problem #2 checked spark again, and I still get a fat blue consistent spark on the rear cylinder but nothing on the front cylinder( i saw it spark once). Now, i have cut this wire back before, tested to make sure it had spark before putting the boot on, and sure enough it had spark.

Any suggestions?

Thanks,

Aaron

keefer · Jun 6, 2007

The stock Yamaha wires are only 8 or 10 strand wire and will fail. Use the ohm meter on the nearest setting above 5k and measure between the spark plug caps. You should read about 4700 ohms. Wiggle the suspect bad wire and it might start reading intermittant. If you get no reading then the wire is bad and you can either trim it back if possible or it might be broken near the coil. If it is then send the coil to have the wires replaced. The guy in my sig line can do it for you and he will install 20 strand high quality wire that will last a lot better than stock. Replace the stock plug caps with MSD or NGK units while you are at it. Give him a call and get that thing fixed, its summer and the water is waiting...

Gainera2582 · Jun 6, 2007

Thanks guys, ended up pulling the coil and sending it to jss for wire repair!!!

Gainera2582 · Jun 25, 2007

so I got my coil back friday, will get to install it tomorrow(had to detail a boat thursday and friday and had to work sat and sun).

Two questions:

What areas besides the connections should I grease up before sealing the electrical box?

Without trying to strip these bastard ebox screws, what bit should I use to put them in rather than attempt to use a phillips again?

Kaveman · Jun 25, 2007

A good #3 phillips will work perfect for these screws. The problem that I most often see with these screws is that people will over tighten them cutting or squeezing the rubber gasket out causing a leak. Remember with any rubber seal all you have to do is get it flush and then a slight squish to ensure proper seal.

Gainera2582 · Jul 22, 2007

So it keeps doing this again. I rode one time and it seemed like it fouled one of the plugs so I ended up throwing a new one in for the time being and it fixed it for awhile.

I ride today and after about 3 hours it goes in limp mode again.

Here is what I did so far:

I checked compression again: 155 in both cylinders
I have spark on both cylinders

I just pulled off the flame arrestor and I will water test it, but I am not sure what to look for?

Any help would be appreciated thanks,

Aaron

superjet running on one cylinder(has reworked coil)

Power and Agility

ISJWTA member #2

ISJWTA member #2

Born in USA(not Kenya)

ISJWTA member #2

Power and Agility

ISJWTA member #2

ISJWTA member #2

Power and Agility

I forgot!

Power and Agility

I wish I thought of that

Power and Agility

Power and Agility

ISJWTA member #2

T1

Power and Agility

Power and Agility

Born in USA(not Kenya)

Power and Agility