Superjet Wont Crank. Lots of Diag Done, Lots of New Parts... HELP!

marcellino

marcellino

Location
SW Michigan
So, my RN has been sitting for about a year now since the no start issue began. I've since replaced the stop/start switch, starter solenoid, MSD enhancer, ignition coil, and fuse. The battery is fully charged and I have battery voltage at the solenoid. I also have battery voltage at the red wire coming out of the e-box to the start switch. I'm lost, it's an OEM solenoid and if I cross the terminals it will crank but no spark at the plug. That's what led me to believe it was the MSD Enhancer. I just got done installing that and still, no go. Looking for fresh ideas, please! Would love to ride this thing and not miss out on the rest of the season.
 
marcellino

marcellino

Location
SW Michigan
It does nothing at all, the starter does not crank. I don't even hear the solenoid click when I hit the start button. I have the stop/start switch split in half and not mounted on the bars just for testing. That shouldn't matter, correct??

I thought possibly the stator but I checked for ground in the e-box and I have a good ground if I tested it correctly. So ground from the stator is good I believe. Perhaps I need to do some more research and test the stator more thoroughly.
 
SXIPro

SXIPro

JM781 Big Bore
Location
Here on the 'X' mostly
And you replaced the SS switch with a brand new one? I had two used ones where the lanyard button was stuck down internally even with the lanyard clipped, but you couldn't tell with out cracking it open. and the ski did nothing.
 
S

Storbeck

Location
Minnesota
The start stop switch has two sets of wires coming out of it. For each set of wires, check for continuity, and make sure that pushing a button changes something.

If you want I can check what they're actually supposed to do when I get home, but definitely each set of wires should have a corresponding button that changes it from on to off.
 
marcellino

marcellino

Location
SW Michigan
Yes, I bought a brand new OEM stop/start switch and that still doesn't work. I tested ohms on the new switch and my original switch, they're both good. Even tried the switch from my SN that I know works.
 
S

Storbeck

Location
Minnesota
So if you have voltage at the starter solenoid on the "big wire" that carries current to the starter, but it doesn't click when you push the start button, that would mean either you have a bad solenoid, or you have a problem somewhere between the start switch and the "small wires" on the solenoid that actuate it.

The way to check would be to check for voltage on the small wires when you push the button. If you have voltage when you push the button, then it's a bad solenoid, if you don't have voltage when you push the button, you have a problem somewhere between the start switch and the solenoid.
 
marcellino

marcellino

Location
SW Michigan
Baja 252 said:
I sent you a pm.
Click to expand...
Awesome, I've printed the list and I'll double-check everything with the multimeter now. Thank you!

So I have 12.8 Volts at the starter solenoid, I do not get voltage to the small brown wire on the solenoid when I hit the start button. I'm guessing I should be as the other small wire is black and presumably a ground?
 
OCD Solutions

OCD Solutions

Original, Clean and Dependable Solutions
Location
Rentz, GA
That is correct. You should also have 12v on the red wire going to the stop button itself. When you press the start button, you should get the 12v returning on the brown wire which in turn connects to the brown wire on the solenoid.

I have seen the wires break in the short little harness right inside the grommet into the ebox so be sure to check on the start/stop harness wire, as well as the other side in the ebox. If you don't get any power returning, make sure the lanyard is plugged in.

Also ensure you don't have the solid brown wires mixed up with the brown wire with a white strip that comes from the stator.
 
marcellino

marcellino

Location
SW Michigan
So I feel like a moron but for the sake of anyone else working thru a no start problem, it was two brown crossed wires! Probably did it last year when I replaced the solenoid and just now found it by going thru the checklist baja252 sent me. So appreciative of the help guys! This thing will be ripping on Lake Michigan all weekend!!!!
 
Baja 252

Baja 252

Location
LOTO
Storbeck said:
Unless baja252 has some objection to it, why not post the checklist here so the next guy that comes along searching for info can see it?
Click to expand...


Work computers won't let me post on the forum, but I can PM people, go figure. That's why I PM'ed it to you.

I didn't make the check list, I got it off the X or a different forum years ago , it's probably in the Tech FAQ section.


What to do if you hit the "Start" button and nothing happens on your SJ

You need a multi-meter to diagnose things correctly. If you are not even getting a click when you hit the “Start” button, then try the simple things first before you tear anything apart. The OEM plugs right outside the ebox for the S/S switch can get corroded internally make sure that’s not it.
If it’s not the connector and further testing needs to be done, run thru this checklist.

All these should be true in this order:

  • -12v at the battery while pressing the start button (meter red probe on + and black probe on -)
  • If you don't bad battery
  • -12v at the battery while pressing the start button (red probe on battery + and black probe on a CLEAN, BARE metal spot on the motor...not a bolt head,not a fitting...a CLEAN BARE spot of the casting of the motor even if you have to make a spot)
  • 12v while pressing start button -->ok
  • immediate drop in voltage when the start button is pressed--->bad ground
  • -12v at both solenoid posts while pressing the start button (red probe on one post at a time, black probe on battery - )
  • While pushing the start button, if you get 12v on both posts and get no cranking then your problem is the starter or cable ends at the starter
  • If you get 12v on one post but not the other then your problem is in the S/S switch circuit.

  • S/S switch circuit is real easy to diagnose with the ebox apart. With the box open:
  • -There is a little red wire spliced into your battery cable that connects to your fuse holder. You should have 12v inside the side of the fuse holder that connects to that wire (red probe inside the fuse holder, black probe on the ground post that the starter relay is grounded to)
  • No 12V-->bad splice or connection to the battery cable, or bad ebox ground from stator
  • Have 12V-->ok
  • -The brown wire that connects to your starter solenoid, unplug this wire and test the end coming from your s/s switch (red probe on brown wire connector and black probe on ground post that the solenoid is grounded to)
  • While pressing the start button:
  • 12v on brown wire coming from switch-->bad relay or relay ground
  • No 12V on brown wire-->your problem is in the S/S switch or any associated connection starting from the red wire spliced into your battery cable and ending at the brown wire that plugs into your solenoid.
  • If nothing simple solves it then follow that order, it will take everything out of the equation. As long as you are testing the connections correctly and there are no goofy or ghetto fab connections someone made or altered in your ski you'll find the problem.
  • Most of this may apply to other brands of skis too.
 
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