So I'm new to jets skis and I'm in need of some help. My ride plate tore off this weekend and took the inserts with it. It's straight to the foam. any advice?
Sxi ride plate tore out
- Thread starter Jared_Wangler
- Start date
That really sucks! You'd be better off posting a question in the Composite section though. Plenty of guys on here that can walk you through just about anything. The long of the short is your either going to have to glass in new inserts, or pay someone to do it.
Ok I am new to this forum I've been reading a lot, first time posting. I will start browsing that section.
Can a mod move this to composites thanks
No worries and welcome
........ just want to get you the exposure you need to repair this.
I've seen this happen to a few 95 sxi's. It happen to my buddy like 15years ago. He got all new inserts from Hot products, installed them with bolts on the ride plate, then used marine-tex and set the ride plate back where in should be. He let it set up then remove bolts to make sure they would come in and out. I
Vumad
Super Hero, with a cape!
- Location
- St. Pete, FL
You could glass it from the outside but I don't know how to install a insert from the outside and you would end up with a big hump from the repair.
I would repair that from the inside. Cut open the tray, remove the foam, glass up the hull, drill a hole, glass in a new insert. I know that's not what you want to hear, but it's probably what you are going to have to do. Also a good time to consider foot holds, a wide tray, returf, etc if you would like to do those things. I can be more specific if you decide to go that route.
I would repair that from the inside. Cut open the tray, remove the foam, glass up the hull, drill a hole, glass in a new insert. I know that's not what you want to hear, but it's probably what you are going to have to do. Also a good time to consider foot holds, a wide tray, returf, etc if you would like to do those things. I can be more specific if you decide to go that route.
Thanks for the replies guys, any link to the hot products inserts?
I think this is what he used. Check the bottom of page
http://www.hotproductsusa.com/Flip_Cats/2014/index.html#/192/zoomed
http://www.hotproductsusa.com/Flip_Cats/2014/index.html#/192/zoomed
Ok Thanks, I did see those but I was thinking they were too small. 7/16 outside diameter and my holes are probably closer to 3/4 of an inch. I'd have to measure. I also found the factory brass inserts as well. I'm not sure if they are available still.
This sounds like the right way to do it, but I'm a little apprehensive of doing this. does it sound like more work than it actually is to cut the tray open? Ahh back to the search bar.
Vumad
Super Hero, with a cape!
- Location
- St. Pete, FL
@Jared_Wangler
To do the job, and do it right, disclaimer, I have not done it...
You are going to need to remove the turf and the tray pads.
Prep the work area by sanding off any glue residue (It will be easier to sand before cutting than prepping later.
Cut out a large rectangle for your work area in the tray, careful not to cut through anything on the back side, the pump tunnel will be close to the top deck.
Remove foam
sand and prep inside.
Layup glass
drill hole
install new insert
close up tray
pour in foam
A few things...
I would cut away a lot of that damaged area. I would then add bondo and remake my shape. wax the bondo and hull, then lay 1-2 layers of glass over the bondo with a small overlap of the hull (like 1"). Then I would remove this piece of glass I just made. This piece now is your mold. You can wax it, and when you do all the steps above (including removing the bondo), you can use this piece you just made to layup your glass on. You will have much more overlap, 2-3" this time, because this is your repair. When done, you simply remove this "mold" piece you made, which it comes off easy since its waxed, it will only really be held on by tape. Your repair will mimic the bondo job you did, and you will have minimal body work.
I would also take this time to add a trim tube, a second cooling tube (3 total, unless you don't care about a siphon), add foot holds if desired (make sure you plan where to put your extinguisher if you want to stay legal), add in an engine compartment drain and versi plug, and inspect the condition of all the other mounts.
In the grand scheme of composites repair, this is a low to medium skill level.
As a direct answer to your question, "Does it sound like more work than it is"... No. It's a job, especially if your don't have any prior experience.
To do the job, and do it right, disclaimer, I have not done it...
You are going to need to remove the turf and the tray pads.
Prep the work area by sanding off any glue residue (It will be easier to sand before cutting than prepping later.
Cut out a large rectangle for your work area in the tray, careful not to cut through anything on the back side, the pump tunnel will be close to the top deck.
Remove foam
sand and prep inside.
Layup glass
drill hole
install new insert
close up tray
pour in foam
A few things...
I would cut away a lot of that damaged area. I would then add bondo and remake my shape. wax the bondo and hull, then lay 1-2 layers of glass over the bondo with a small overlap of the hull (like 1"). Then I would remove this piece of glass I just made. This piece now is your mold. You can wax it, and when you do all the steps above (including removing the bondo), you can use this piece you just made to layup your glass on. You will have much more overlap, 2-3" this time, because this is your repair. When done, you simply remove this "mold" piece you made, which it comes off easy since its waxed, it will only really be held on by tape. Your repair will mimic the bondo job you did, and you will have minimal body work.
I would also take this time to add a trim tube, a second cooling tube (3 total, unless you don't care about a siphon), add foot holds if desired (make sure you plan where to put your extinguisher if you want to stay legal), add in an engine compartment drain and versi plug, and inspect the condition of all the other mounts.
In the grand scheme of composites repair, this is a low to medium skill level.
As a direct answer to your question, "Does it sound like more work than it is"... No. It's a job, especially if your don't have any prior experience.
In my opinion, Vumad is going alittle overboard for a ski thats 19years old. I really don't see the need in going in from the top unless you are going to keep the boat forever, plan to defoam and add footholds anyway or have tons of free time and want to learn about composites.
The bottom of the 92-96 sxi are SMC and not fiberglass like the 98 & up boats were. The easier way is epoxy (marine-tex), or SMC panel adhesive, or if you plan to go crazy plexuis, and go in from the bottom.
If you can get a hold of the stock brass inserts use those. Use the plate to mock up the inserts. and place them in with epoxy, once you know the ride plate will come on and off fine then repair all the rest of the area and sand when finished.
I am not good with composites at all but have made repairs using marine-tex and had good luck.
My friends 95 sxi has been sold to 3 other people and last I heard a few years ago the plate was still fine and he did the same type of repair I just explained. Good luck dude!
The bottom of the 92-96 sxi are SMC and not fiberglass like the 98 & up boats were. The easier way is epoxy (marine-tex), or SMC panel adhesive, or if you plan to go crazy plexuis, and go in from the bottom.
If you can get a hold of the stock brass inserts use those. Use the plate to mock up the inserts. and place them in with epoxy, once you know the ride plate will come on and off fine then repair all the rest of the area and sand when finished.
I am not good with composites at all but have made repairs using marine-tex and had good luck.
My friends 95 sxi has been sold to 3 other people and last I heard a few years ago the plate was still fine and he did the same type of repair I just explained. Good luck dude!
Vumad
Super Hero, with a cape!
- Location
- St. Pete, FL
Scorn makes excellent points. His way is quite possibly a much better for you than my way.
Ok thanks vumad and scorn800. I think I am going to order some west system or smc panel adhesive and try the part number I have for the brass inserts and try from the bottom. I would really like to ride again before snow hits. I will save all the other fun for when I'm ready for footholds.
Last edited:
snowxr
V watch your daughters V
- Location
- Waterford, MI
The easier fix is to use L channel aluminum and cut slots in the rear of the hull, and hammer them into place through the foam. Glass over them, and drill and tap new mounting holes to match the ride plate. A couple friends have used this method.