SXR modding question for racing

[Sidsol]

Currently my buddy has a stock SXR and we are looking for a dry pipe to put on it. Thought before I suggest we get the pipe first what is everyone opinion on what to do first . Maybe list them out in stages , any help would be great.

 

[jMike]

Are you or your friend racing the ski? if so the first set of items should keep you stock legal.. consult your clubs rules first

You could do some of the handling and minor stuff first
- TBM ride plate / intake
- 0 deg bars and new grips, TBM or other short quicksteer turn plate
- Stock impeller is pretty good but a nice Skat 13/18 adds a bit
- Tiny Tach for tuning
- Bilge pump and duck bill
- TBM Pump Cone
- Bore stock nozzle to 81mm (I think)
- Dual cooling if you run in warm waters
- Tau Ceti Flame Arrestors or pull the rubber trumpets out of the stock box
- Pole spring or stiffner
- Front Sponsons, I like the TBMs
- Mat kit, hydro turf, jet trim
- Timing advance or an Advent even helps with the stock ski

Then add the pipe with (keeping it limited legal)

- Interchangeable dome head with girdle kit
- Reeds, Vforce or Boysen
- Novi or Full spec Carbs
- Trim, Sato, Skat
- Magnum Pump/ impeller
- Handle pole RRP, UMI
- 850cc big bore

Super stock

- Port Polish
- Aluminum flywheel
- strong arms to hold on

All that and you will sufficiently broke but have a fast azz ski!

 

[Tanman]

You can find a jumper wire that plugs into your bilge temp sensor? i believe it is, but that advances your timing 6 degrees in literally 3 seconds ha easy one to do, also the exhaust sleeve by R&D adds 100 RPM top end and thats a cheap easy one, for me first thing was new bars and ODI grips for sure, then it is TBM ride plate and toploader set up, that will get you rockin for a while

 

[kawi105]

Well if you're gonna do the advance, dont run the stinger insert, its one or the other.

You can also dry out the stock pipe to add performance.

 

[Big Kahuna]

You can find a jumper wire that plugs into your bilge temp sensor? i believe it is, but that advances your timing 6 degrees in literally 3 seconds ha easy one to do, also the exhaust sleeve by R&D adds 100 RPM top end and thats a cheap easy one, for me first thing was new bars and ODI grips for sure, then it is TBM ride plate and toploader set up, that will get you rockin for a while

The wire jumper is only 4 degrees +/- There has been some issue of accuracy mentioned. I ran the plate which is more exact and you get more static advance.

Well if you're gonna do the advance, dont run the stinger insert, its one or the other.

You can also dry out the stock pipe to add performance.

You can run the advance and the stinger insert. Ran for 4 years with never an issue only gains. Split cooling works really well. It dries the pipe out and keeps the engine bay temps down.

 

[kawi105]

idk, ive been told that it hurts performance and reliabilty. IMO i tried the advance and stinger, i liked the stinger better. We also dried the pipe, made it much crisper.

 

[Big Kahuna]

I only saw gains with them. Just part of a package. But with stock class, depending on what all you do, there may be a combo where it may actually effect perfromance.. My ski was spec'd out by one of the best in the business so I know it worked.

Advanced timing helped with the out of the hole power. Extra RPM's helped the top end. Running the split cooling allowed me to maintain higher RPM's when the air temps were in the upper 90's I still could get high 49's-50 mph where I use to could not get those temps in mid to late summer.

 

[MTRHEAD]

Cheap trick - we were at the lake and a buddy brought a 800 sxr stock. I went into his house, got some tin foil, and jammed it in his temp sensor connector. He was amazed and it's been over 4 years and still is just fine!

 

[Tanman]

can someone explain the split cooling routing, ect.? sounds good to me

 

[Big Kahuna]

1. Tap you pump for a 2nd pickup line. Your stock exhaust has a pisser line that comes from the head that dumps overboard through the pump. You use this line to bring water into the engine bay.

2. You run one water line to the exhaust manifold. From the head you dump both fittings overboard - you will have to purchase 3 bypass fittings.

3. Your other water line you will hook to the head pipe and the outgoing fitting you will dump it overboard.


You will have 3 pissers now dumping water. You will need to restrict some water going into the headpipe. If I had my SXR still I could get you some pics, but I sold it last winter.

 

[kawi105]

I was told this trick by a friend, and has worked well for me...

Parts needed:
3/8 pisser
3/8 90* bypass fitting

Take the 3/8 fitting, since the threaded end of the fitting is bored smaller than the exit end, you want to bore it. Find a drill bit that fits closest to the exit bore size, then bore the threaded side. Now all you do, install it on the head, install the 3/8 pisser, and put on the stock water line.

This with the stinger worked great for me.

 

[Chris03HD]

1. Tap you pump for a 2nd pickup line. Your stock exhaust has a pisser line that comes from the head that dumps overboard through the pump. You use this line to bring water into the engine bay.

2. You run one water line to the exhaust manifold. From the head you dump both fittings overboard - you will have to purchase 3 bypass fittings.

3. Your other water line you will hook to the head pipe and the outgoing fitting you will dump it overboard.

Ok, #1 i understand.. #2, are you saying I have to tap another (second) fitting at the manifold to bring the 2nd pickup water IN? And #3 I understand.

Thanks

 

[Chris03HD]

Ok, #1 i understand.. #2, are you saying I have to tap another (second) fitting at the manifold to bring the 2nd pickup water IN? And #3 I understand.

Thanks

Pic of this? Im not by my sxr, so trying to visualize

 

[heebs12]

This is good information. I will pass it on to my SXR buddys.

What about jet works valves? i have been told that some SXR guys run them t odry everything out.

 

[RyanO]

pump cones are not stock class legal.

 

[TJLSuperJet]

Stock isnt stock anymore.... Handling is #1, Practice is #2, and remember anything the other guys spend their money on, you can make up for with a few good turns....

 

[MTRHEAD]

Haven't heard much about the current crop of Stock Spec race skis. SXR800 to the uwpa tour rules, these would be the current SXR's that allow Pump Stuffer Cones, Aftermarket Nozzles, and reeds along with all of the other usual mods (except for 850cc)

Lots of guys got 49-50mph in the hey day of stock class racing with the usual 13/21-13/22 Dynafly with the oem 76mm nozzle. wonder what did the pump cone and nozzle get people?

I know that the 80mm nozzle helps a stock boat ...but when I was racing stock that was illegal. I do remember putting one a rec boat and the speed was still the same the boat just gain 100-150 rpm and more hit for sure.

Anybody know? or test?

Thanks

 

[227]

Forget the Dry Pipe, for less money than you can build a competative level Limited, you can do an 1100 conversion. OEM reliabilty and you will get 60-63 mph all day on pump gas

 

[Mentzel]

WOW lots of bad info. Start by learning how to ride/race!

Don't blow your cash until your ski is actually holding you back. If after a few races you think getting the hole shot will put you on top, then start modding.

Don't get caught up in the, you need this part BS. Most new racers can barely make it to the end of moto 3. Get in shape, learn to ride. And ride ride ride!

Showroom stock skis can easily win races in most regions with a good rider who is in shape.

 

[Big Kahuna]

WOW lots of bad info. Start by learning how to ride/race!

Don't blow your cash until your ski is actually holding you back. If after a few races you think getting the hole shot will put you on top, then start modding.

Don't get caught up in the, you need this part BS. Most new racers can barely make it to the end of moto 3. Get in shape, learn to ride. And ride ride ride!

Showroom stock skis can easily win races in most regions with a good rider who is in shape.

How much racing have you done?