Other Synthetic oil engine break in ?

bird

walking on water
Site Supporter
I broke in my 2011 SXR with Amsoil Dominator at 60:1(Kawi Recommended mixture), then switched to 50:1 after I jumped to Temp Sensor.

It has been the only oil I've run in my SXR. I checked compression this January when I winterized and still have 156psi (cheapo compression gauge) in each cylinder after 200+ hours. I think I'm up to 12 gallons+ of oil with two fulls seasons under my belt. I ride A LOT, and I haven't seen a drop in my compression since I got it.

If someone could have proved they gained horsepower and longevity breaking in with DINO oil I would have used it but they couldn't...
 

Matt_E

steals hub caps from cars
Site Supporter
Location
at peace
Done it, breaks in just fine with synthetic. Rings do seat, compression goes up slightly after a couple of hours. In my case, there was no discernible difference between break-in with mineral vs synthetic oil (Amsoil Dominator)
 
no matter what kind of oil you use, you cant stop wear from happening. if synthetic oil does reduce wear, it will obviously take longer to wear in, but wear in it will. i've always heard to beak something in the way you want it to run. beat it right off the bat and its faster than hell. baby it and its slow. i dont know how true this myth is either. my local guru is the guy i listen to if i dont know the answer and he says use cheap oil on the break in, so thats what i do.
 
Done it, breaks in just fine with synthetic. Rings do seat, compression goes up slightly after a couple of hours. In my case, there was no discernible difference between break-in with mineral vs synthetic oil (Amsoil Dominator)
Same here, freshend top ends on both our 10mil dasas just before daytona,in the past i normaly ran mineral based oil for first tank or so, but this time ran the same synthetic I run all the time, and saw no noticeable difference, kyle at dasa agreed the the synthetic is fine to run during break in when I askd his advice on it.

Sent from my blackberry Q10 970
 
Yep, I adjusted the flow for 130F head temp and leaned the bottom screws to peak rpm. I was most surprised with how hot the coupler and lower case got after three hours.
Um you know having the ski in the water helps cool your midshaft and pump bearings, right...? I'd be surprised if the bearings and seals could last 30 minutes straight, let alone 3 hours of running out of the water...
 

Quinc

Buy a Superjet
Location
California
Anyone try using Micro slick or any other permanent lube?

Description: Micro Slick is a ceramic dry film coating used to reduce friction on a variety of internal engine coponents, such as piston skirts, cam lobes, valve stems, lifters and an other surfaces requiring a high temperature coating with a low coefficient of friction.
 

Schmidty721

someone turf my rails
Location
WI
The best breakin I ever had was running TCW-3 on the trailer at 2500 rpm for 3 hours.

Steady RPM without any load is the last way I'd break-in an engine.

I run whatever oil I'll be using for the life of the engine. One short heat cycle on the stand, about a 30 min ride at about half aggression, let if fully cool off then it's ride how you want to ride it. Biggest concern during the first few tanks is to not get the engine too hot IMO. Load and varied RPM are your friend.
 
I use penzoil from wal mart in both of my skis. When I tore it down to port and bore, I was amazed at how clean, and no buildup there was. I broke in the new motor with the same stuff and within a half of a tank compression numbers were perfect. In fact, I tore into the girls ski last night to put on a head and a pipe and her stocker was spotless inside as well. Its cheap and readily available....
 
I use penzoil from wal mart in both of my skis. When I tore it down to port and bore, I was amazed at how clean, and no buildup there was. I broke in the new motor with the same stuff and within a half of a tank compression numbers were perfect. In fact, I tore into the girls ski last night to put on a head and a pipe and her stocker was spotless inside as well. Its cheap and readily available....
Pennzoil does burn clean and compared to bulk yamalube in the drum from the dealer which leaves lots of carbon deposits, yamalube that I tried was a very dirty burning oil. Probably not going to help powervalves do their thing.
 
Location
dfw
You guys realize that all that "synthetic" oil is a mineral oil that is refined more than the "conventional" oils are right?
It can be, the term "synthetic" is very broad these days. For two-strokes the only type that is advantageous is ester, which is not synthesized from petroleum.
 
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