Freestyle Terrible vibration
- Thread starter SmittySX
- Start date
Quinc
Buy a Superjet
- Location
- California
New oem couch mounts are too stiff. Try some old SJ mounts?
Rip uses gp800 for the height and rigidity.
My rip has a vibration that is just about below teeth chattering intensity. I used Cf alignment tool as well and a newly rebuilt midshaft. I do have my steering cable under the motor too. I've just lived to deal with it since it goes away after slightly above idle. Just sucks during no wake zone.
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My rip has a vibration that is just about below teeth chattering intensity. I used Cf alignment tool as well and a newly rebuilt midshaft. I do have my steering cable under the motor too. I've just lived to deal with it since it goes away after slightly above idle. Just sucks during no wake zone.
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- Location
- Annapolis, MD
Mine are oem Sj mounts.
cookn
Kamikaze
- Location
- where you live
We have seen where the drive shaft will rub the tube a bit causing some vibrations as well
- Location
- Annapolis, MD
I noticed little to no added vibration when going from OEM sj mounts to OEM couch mounts.
- Location
- Cleveland, Ohio
Replaced the rear mounts with used OEM and vibrates just as much. Really leaning towards engine internals...
- Location
- Central Illinois
I have this same vibration scenario with a ss Dasa and pfp. It's the same even with the pump removed. I rebuilt my midshaft and noticed a slight decrease in intensity, but not much. The vibration was less in my last hull that was substantially thicker so I'm blaming it on a paper thin carbon hull. Since those rip's are built without a bulkhead, the sides of the hull could resonate and exaggerate the issue. ?????
- Location
- Cleveland, Ohio
The last RIP I built had no vibration what so ever. It was as smooth as could be. I may swap out for a different engine to narrow it down to that..
- Location
- Central Illinois
Well that busts my hull theory. I won't question that since you've had about 1 of everything out there. I'm gonna keep riding mine until a deeper problem shows itself. Btw, seems like you've been off the ships for quite a while this time. You gonna make it to wave rave?
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Both of my carbon hulls have had more vibration than my SJs did, I always thought the same thing about the hull. Noticed when first built, but never even notice anymore.
Same here. Both are designed for dampening approx the same motors and weight.
- Location
- Annapolis, MD
Yeah it's not the mounts at all. It's a whole different sorta feel. I had 701 mounts in my old Rickter those things sucked it felt like riding a 1988 kx500. I couldn't even see straight and felt it in my wrists so bad. This vibration is nothing the same.
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I have vibration similar to yours, my rrp pipe is near the hull wall on the manifold side but not really rubbing. When I run the ski on the trailer in the water I see the pipe jumping around Intermitantly hitting and bouncing off the hull. I added turf there In the past for rub protection . At times when in a 5 mph zone it sounds like small explosions and if I put my hand on the hull by the pipe I can feel it bouncing of the hull wall.
You might if Not already done run the ski on the trailer In the water while strapped down and get your engine into the vibration window and see what the pipes doing, you could even have a Freind pull the pipe to the right or manipulate the pipe and see if it changes your vibration.
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- Location
- Ontario, Canada
Have you air flow metered your carbs to make sure they are in synch? If one carb is flowing harder then you will get excessive vibration until your carbs get proper fuel charge balance. Might warrant giving them a cleaning or kits if needed too. My sj had a lot of vibration due to poorly synched carbs. It went away fully after I flow metered and balanced them.
Could you explain what you did to flow balance the carbs? Having a similar issue with vibration/running rough.
- Location
- Ontario, Canada
You need a flow meter,make sure your carbs are balanced both internally meaning jetting and popoff pressures, externally meaning same number of turns out on the mixture screws, place the meter in the link provided into the carb throat and adjust the throttle linkage until both carbs are reading the same flow rates. There are 2 sizes of this meter for larger or smaller carb diameters, make sure you get the right size.
http://vwparts.aircooled.net/Snail-Type-Syncrometer-Carb-Sync-Tool-GERMAN-SK-p/ste-sk.htm
I should add that your carb kits should be in good order as well. If one metering diaphragm is soft and pliable but the other is getting firm and crispy then you will never get a proper fine tuning. A lot of guys will say only use genuine Mikuni kits, well...it has been to my experience that they are the worst kit to go with. I have yet to see a genuine Mikuni metering diaphragm (which is the most important part) when the carb is reopened, not roll up into the shape of a taco shell. The o-rings also seem to have a habit of swelling about 30% larger than before getting into contact with fuel. As much as I hate to say it, I have found WSM carb kits to be the best I have used yet. The metering diaphragms are not effected by today's horrible fuel quality and you get possibly the most elaborate range of springs. SBT kits are a close second but after buying WSM, I will stick with them for every rebuild. I thought it is important to mention this because we can be so easily convinced that our carb kits are in pristine condition but unless you verify how they are effected by the fuel quality in your area before calibrating, you need to ask yourself are they for a certainty? I hope this helps.
http://vwparts.aircooled.net/Snail-Type-Syncrometer-Carb-Sync-Tool-GERMAN-SK-p/ste-sk.htm
I should add that your carb kits should be in good order as well. If one metering diaphragm is soft and pliable but the other is getting firm and crispy then you will never get a proper fine tuning. A lot of guys will say only use genuine Mikuni kits, well...it has been to my experience that they are the worst kit to go with. I have yet to see a genuine Mikuni metering diaphragm (which is the most important part) when the carb is reopened, not roll up into the shape of a taco shell. The o-rings also seem to have a habit of swelling about 30% larger than before getting into contact with fuel. As much as I hate to say it, I have found WSM carb kits to be the best I have used yet. The metering diaphragms are not effected by today's horrible fuel quality and you get possibly the most elaborate range of springs. SBT kits are a close second but after buying WSM, I will stick with them for every rebuild. I thought it is important to mention this because we can be so easily convinced that our carb kits are in pristine condition but unless you verify how they are effected by the fuel quality in your area before calibrating, you need to ask yourself are they for a certainty? I hope this helps.
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- Location
- buffalo ny
I'm having the same issue with my carbon brawler as the rest of you. I have even gone so far as to pretty much buy everything new last winter and rebuild the ski. Still doing the same thing. Only things that aren't new are my motor mounts, carbs and my pump(rebuilt last winter though). Can it be just these thin hulls flexing?
- Location
- Cleveland, Ohio
Ski is sitting on the stand waiting for 1 frigging bolt... been waiting for over a week for this special bolt that the seller "didnt realize" he didnt include.... I need this 1 bolt to water test.... Very irritating. Could be worse i guess.
- Location
- buffalo ny
What ski are you having this issue with?