The blind leading the blind FootRocket build

[96superjet]

OK, so it's been sitting in the workshop for over a week while I continue to order and WAIT on build parts to show up at my doorstep. So I'm gonna start with questions that I I hope people who own or have built a FootRocket will weigh in on.

First... did anyone else's bed plates come pre-drilled to bolt down your motor mounts? Per the pic you can see the only holes I have are to bolt to the hull. I know it's designed so you can run any motor ya want, but did anyone else have to drill theirs?

Oh... and do you drill holes and bolt and nut down the motor mounts or drill and tap and thread in your motor mount bolts?

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[Little_Franny]

Well thats different. Can't say I have seen one come not drilled, mine seemed a little off on the left side, but not enough to worry about. Might be able to get you measurements for the holes if you need.

Jon

 

[stagesrt4]

I bought my rocket assembled so can't tell you for sure

I would have assumed they would COME drilled but I don't know

 

[96superjet]

I sent Nick Barton an email asking him what his thoughts are. I suspect he's gonna say "drop your motor in and get the couplers lined up and then mark and drill the plate".

I just want to know if everyone else's plates are tapped (threaded)?

 

[hink320]

You should definitely tap the plates. Mine came pre drilled and tapped.

 

[wanderer1]

Not much help, but maybe it was an oversight? Have you asked any of the salesmen if that is the way they are coming now? Maybe replacements are in order idk.

 

[Little_Franny]

I have seen 8-10 Krash hulls and they all came drilled and tapped. Seems they are working some issues out at the new facility as far as quality control goes. Some hulls come with all hardware. Some come with ride plate, holds, pole bracket assembled. Others come with all parts inside the ski but not assembled, mine was missing hardware for the ride plate and the foot holds. But have yet to see one not drilled and tapped for engine mounts.

Jon

 

[speedysprocket]

Mine were drilled and tapped, even though I had to relocate all those holes and move one of the plates entirely, but that's just me.
On the positive, the earlier hulls that Nick made only have three bolts holding them to the hull, not four like your newer hull has!

 

[96superjet]

Got the below message from Nick. This really isn't a big deal. Hell, it's actually probably better. This way I get to line everything up and ensure that my tapped motor mount holes are layed out exactly where they should be. No sweating manufacturing errors and inconsistencies.
Only down side is it will add to my, sure to be VERY LONG, build process.

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[Schmidty721]

I would give yourself a little wiggle room on the height side of things. IE, make sure the engine is straight and aligned side to side, but just a little short of the height needed on your couplers. If you try to align the height perfect, then when drilling and tapping move the mounts toward the center of the hull by mistake you will end up too high. Never hurts to use a shim or two, but you can make it lower.

 

[iangdesign]

Good to let them know what you received for quality control in the future.

How did you start this thread with no pics of the hull. I thought this was a pre req for hull building on the X...haha!

 

[jo5hi3]

i think if i were in yours shoes i would ask crash to send me plates that were already drilled and tapped

 

[stagesrt4]

yea personally id want them to do it...

or at least maybe they could toss in a free ride plate for your hassles...

Or to be real prick say i can either ship the plates back at their cost or i can send whole ski back at their cost... they choose

 

[speedysprocket]

i think if i were in yours shoes i would ask crash to send me plates that were already drilled and tapped

Good plan, if you like riding your ski in winter more than during the summer!

 

[Schmidty721]

Good plan, if you like riding your ski in winter more than during the summer!

There are two dealers in the USA I would be contacting if I wasn't comfortable doing the job myself

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[speedysprocket]

What Nick describes really isn't hard either and is the quickest turn around. Once you mark the holes with a marker, take the engine and mounts back out and and measure the marks from the edge of the plate to make sure front and rear mounts on each side are in line.
Even if you're off a little bit, the engine mount holes allow them to be moved slightly, and then the bed plates have large holes to allow for tweaking of engine placement.
Just double and tripple check your marks before drilling (and take the plates out of the hull to drill them (drill press is ideal)).
Good luck! Get it done so you can ride!

 

[wanderer1]

There ya go, it was an oversight. Albeit unrectified imo, it sounds like an area Nick is aware of and hopefully will address. Good luck and have fun.

 

[Dalton]

I don't want to say his setup instructions are wrong, but trying to align the engine and motor mounts with the rubber in the coupler is only going to make it easier to mess up and harder to get right. Leave the rubber out so you can actually see how the coupler fingers are aligning.

 

[jackmarcus]

If you do decide to do it yourself I highly recommend you remove them from the hull and use a drill press

 

[96superjet]

So... A year and a half later and one Phantom build completed, I'm now found some time to start working on this FootRocket. The pump shoe was not installed so I'm installing one for the first time ever. I built a pump and through into the hull and got it aligned with my Cold Fusion alignment tool. The way the shoe sat in the hull didn't align well with the pump. The top part of the shoe was much closer to the pump then was the bottom. I taped some washers to the hull to act as temporary shims for when I glue the shoe in the pump cavity.

Nick from Krash told me to use Sikaflex 291 for the shoe install, so we'll see how it works. I used it to glue in the scupper valve. After two days it seems full cured, but also seems more flexible then 3M 5200.

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