The "Where do all these parts go" DVX build
- Thread starter clayne100
- Start date
Byeai
"Cheetos-Man"
- Location
- Melbourne FL
This is my dvx with 155 and triple cooling and just capped off the 4th line in the hull
- Location
- Tualatin, OR
This is my dvx with 155 and triple cooling and just capped off the 4th line in the hull
You must have rotated you stator section to get that elbow to fit out the end of the cast fitting. That sure seems an easier way to add the third line than what I was looking at doing.
Byeai
"Cheetos-Man"
- Location
- Melbourne FL
Idk this is how I got the pump when it was new when I had my kdx I had to grind the pump where the reduction nozzle is to clear the plate but now I upgraded to the dvx and they made it fit for a 155 but they are all half inch lines soo
- Location
- Tualatin, OR
What is the downside to rotating it 180 degrees?
If I don't then I have to get this hunk of aluminum shorter. I might be able to replace the cast elbow with a brass one but that seems risky.
Byeai
"Cheetos-Man"
- Location
- Melbourne FL
I'd run the cast fitting before grinding it down to run a brass one any day
The alignment pins hold the sections in a precise alignment. If you flip the stator and run no pins, then I have seen the prop rub on the wear ring.
You can also grind alot off the cast cooling elbox without a problem. I have also cut that whole section off and fitted curved aluminum plate in its place. I tapped and screwed the brass fitting through the plate and into the ss of the pump. Epoxied the plate on.
Byeai
"Cheetos-Man"
- Location
- Melbourne FL
Good to know chris I will have to get more info about this at blues
- Location
- Tualatin, OR
Not a whole lot of progress. I spent 3 weeks on budget painter before I had to cut bait and get a real professional to do the job. It is supposed to be done on Wednesday.
In the meantime, some pump progress. I was trying to figure out how to run triple cooling and get more room for the exhaust side scupper. As you can see below it is tight with the cast AL elbow on the skat 155.
I ended cutting off the casting and threading it for a brass elbow fitting.
It doesn't look like much more room but it does two things. First, it's length is lower and closer to the hing side of the scupper so it can open farther. Second it is much smaller leaving room for the steering cable. I did not realize it before but that large casting was right where the steering cable goes.
Tipple cooling came from resurrecting the original nozzle cooling line. Epoxy around the outside for strength. Drill and tap a new hole, then adding a street 90 and 45 to get the hose going the right direction.
Pump is setup and ready for install.
In the meantime, some pump progress. I was trying to figure out how to run triple cooling and get more room for the exhaust side scupper. As you can see below it is tight with the cast AL elbow on the skat 155.
I ended cutting off the casting and threading it for a brass elbow fitting.
It doesn't look like much more room but it does two things. First, it's length is lower and closer to the hing side of the scupper so it can open farther. Second it is much smaller leaving room for the steering cable. I did not realize it before but that large casting was right where the steering cable goes.
Tipple cooling came from resurrecting the original nozzle cooling line. Epoxy around the outside for strength. Drill and tap a new hole, then adding a street 90 and 45 to get the hose going the right direction.
Pump is setup and ready for install.
Byeai
"Cheetos-Man"
- Location
- Melbourne FL
Is that third one going to work properly
- Location
- Tualatin, OR
I don't have any reason to believe it will not. It is the same as most stock nozzle cooling lines. I had to modify it for a fitting as the original hose nipple was removed when the nozzle was bored. The fittings are a street 90 and a 45. Granted it is not the most efficient water flow but it will not me my main cooling line.
Why do you as? What is your concern with it?
Byeai
"Cheetos-Man"
- Location
- Melbourne FL
Jw if anything use it for ur pipe
Byeai
"Cheetos-Man"
- Location
- Melbourne FL
Only thing I don't like is you have 2 lines on sane side as steering cable but that's just a personal preference as long as it doesn't get in the way of you steering cable then run it and another personal thing is you lines in the boat will be coming from the right so you will have to snake them to the other side but I like that idea of tapping it
- Location
- Tualatin, OR
Got the hull back from paint. Now the fun begins.
Ducky
Back in the game!
- Location
- Charlotte, NC
Does that picture have a filter on it? That color looks sickkkk regardless. What color is it?
- Location
- Tualatin, OR
It is Porsche rubinrot red. The picture does not do it justice. It is a rich deep pearl red. Should be sweet when I add the carbon graphics and black pole/turf.
Ducky
Back in the game!
- Location
- Charlotte, NC
Awesome, looks great! I like seeing original colors on a ski like that.
- Location
- Tualatin, OR
This is my first custom build so I don't have a huge pool of experience to draw from but there sure is a lot of "two steps forward, one step backwards" in the process. I spend most of Saturday working on assembling the ski. Pump took a while to get it all sorted out but it is in and locked down.
Intake grate turned out good as well. I ended up doing a fair amount of custom fitting and filling (before paint) to get the grate and hull to mate nicely with no gaps.
The pole and bars are on. Turns out the pole bracket was not quite lined up from the factory, which made the bars 1/2 inch off from center. Fortunately I was able to removed the internal mounting plate, oversize the holes, and get it lined up.
A lot of other little things taken care of also. And now I am to the point of the engine sitting in the ski ready for alignment.
Hopefully tonight I can get the engine mounted and the exhaust system done.
Intake grate turned out good as well. I ended up doing a fair amount of custom fitting and filling (before paint) to get the grate and hull to mate nicely with no gaps.
The pole and bars are on. Turns out the pole bracket was not quite lined up from the factory, which made the bars 1/2 inch off from center. Fortunately I was able to removed the internal mounting plate, oversize the holes, and get it lined up.
A lot of other little things taken care of also. And now I am to the point of the engine sitting in the ski ready for alignment.
Hopefully tonight I can get the engine mounted and the exhaust system done.
- Location
- Tualatin, OR
So, Where did I leave off? Oh yes, ready for motor install. Hold the phone for a sec. Byeal was kind enough to point out that I might have some problems with the steering and water fitting that has been giving me so much grief. After closer inspection, they both needed to be in the same place.
Back to the dilemma of moving the fitting or flipping the stator. The idea of making a new fitting boss on the pump is a little scary and flipping the stator is easy to test. I vote for easy. So out comes the pump, again. I am getting the feeling like this build is constantly two steps forward, one back. Anyway, I get the pins pulled and the stator rotated. Everything looks good. No contact with the wear ring. Time to reinstall the pump.
Now the other fitting is too close to the hull to get the hose one. Ugh. At least that is an easy fix. Just tap it a little bigger, right. Wrong! What build would not be complete without a little drama. And I don't mean backy chan drama, more like "Oh crap, how am I going to fix that" drama.
Turns out the casting walls are fairly thin on pumps and when you are threading deep with a NPT tap that has a constant taper, they put a lot of torque on the surrounding material. Out tears the whole fitting boss! Sorry I did not get picture of it torn out. I was in a panic about potentially ruining a brand new pump housing. Fortunately it epoxied in very well.
I put extra epoxy on it to help distribute the loading over a wider area. It should hold. That or I am in the market for a new stator. Fingers crossed.
At least while it was out I could shorten the boss and tap it as deep as I wanted. Pump reinstalled again and everything looks good. Now I can move on to the rest of the assembly. Hopefully that is the last of the drama.
Back to the dilemma of moving the fitting or flipping the stator. The idea of making a new fitting boss on the pump is a little scary and flipping the stator is easy to test. I vote for easy. So out comes the pump, again. I am getting the feeling like this build is constantly two steps forward, one back. Anyway, I get the pins pulled and the stator rotated. Everything looks good. No contact with the wear ring. Time to reinstall the pump.
Now the other fitting is too close to the hull to get the hose one. Ugh. At least that is an easy fix. Just tap it a little bigger, right. Wrong! What build would not be complete without a little drama. And I don't mean backy chan drama, more like "Oh crap, how am I going to fix that" drama.
Turns out the casting walls are fairly thin on pumps and when you are threading deep with a NPT tap that has a constant taper, they put a lot of torque on the surrounding material. Out tears the whole fitting boss! Sorry I did not get picture of it torn out. I was in a panic about potentially ruining a brand new pump housing. Fortunately it epoxied in very well.
I put extra epoxy on it to help distribute the loading over a wider area. It should hold. That or I am in the market for a new stator. Fingers crossed.
At least while it was out I could shorten the boss and tap it as deep as I wanted. Pump reinstalled again and everything looks good. Now I can move on to the rest of the assembly. Hopefully that is the last of the drama.
Byeai
"Cheetos-Man"
- Location
- Melbourne FL
Dang dude sorry you had to go through all that hope everything goes together better now my pump was the worst part of my build also