Super Jet The wth happened to this glass job

[garrcass]

Sounds like not enough resin.. maybie not that good of a resin and then when things got cold the Hull contracted a bit pulling away from the carbon and resin that was staying warm due to the cure reaction taking place.

One thing I like about west systems epoxy it has the highest PSI I have seen on a epoxy

 

[txsuperjetfreak96]

Would u suggest biax or s glass bruce

 

[McDog]

Im a biax man myself.

 

[BruceSki]

17oz biax then some s glass and cabosil to smooth it out.

Final fairing coats with a body filler mixed with resin so you can spread it.

 

[txsuperjetfreak96]

I realy like the way the 12oz biax lays, stupid question what best way to mix the body filler and resin

 

[Fro Diesel]

Biax fiberglass. West systems or us composites resin. I lay stuff up in Michigan winters. Heat was not the issue imo. Carbon works if u vaccum bag but really you put two weaves that don't flex similarly together. You did everything right but 12 or 17 oz Biax fiberglass and you would be set.

sent from Fro Diesel using tapatalk2

 

[txsuperjetfreak96]

I picked up some grease and wax remover, got all the carbon off, on one side of the bottom deck the carbon stuck just fine so idk, ive gone to every auto parts store best sand paper im comeing across is 36 grit, doing most of the sanding by hand, used a 4" grinder with sanding disk to get the carbon off and what bondo i didnt get removed, the carbon didnt even stick to the bondo, thx everyone for yalls tips and suggestions

 

[jeastes1]

clean with acetone, it evaporates faster and is more compatible with epoxy resin, I believe it can be used to thin it also, not sure but its the best for pre cleaning!
tempuratures should stay at least 60 degrees after layup, I have had bonding and sanding issues with resins other than west systems, like the gumming up you mention, when you grind it later. I have not had any problems with west systems being able to sand and what not even in cooler temperatures. good luck!

 

[txsuperjetfreak96]

Thx yeah ive been wanting to try a diffrent brand epoxy resin

 

[swapmeet]

I remember someone saying that you should use the wax and grease remover before you sand, otherwise it forces the mold release from when the hull was built into the surface and causes adhesion issues. If you remember what if found in my hull this might sound familiar. Seems like acetone would help. I used remover, sanded, then used acetone. And who knows if my CF will stay in my hull...... Time will tell.

 

[Scraggly]

I've never used anything but acetone and I've never had any glass fail. Wax and grease remover or prep salt is just weak acetone IMO

 

[txsuperjetfreak96]

Yeah ive heard that to swap, havent had any issues on the other smc ive glassed, i was realy shocked it didnt adhere to the bondo

 

[BruceSki]

Acetone FTW. I tried mineral sprints once in a pinch. It sucked.

 

[tomski]

Go to this website and start reading. You will find your answer here; http://www.westsystem.com/ss/


Edit: Some of the people on this thread need to go there also.

 

[wydopen]

Why not? I understand that you can just simply lay resin as sand but... You use thin carbon of course.. It'll add strucural integrity to the ski regardless of where it's placed..refinished the bottom deck evenly... Sure you'll have to blend everything in which isn't hard.. And then for those of us that had beat up bottom decks and can't afford a nice new eme or suprfreak ... God forbid even afford to buy the build parts for it... It offers up a fresh finish to the bottom deck and you can even leave it visual carbon... It hurt nothing so no bashing needed here.. Ill tell you what.. If it for some reason turns out to be a mistake... Lesson learned ill take it on the chin. i had a good time doing it.. and Ill rock the shiz out of te hull all year either way and break out the sander yet again next winter...

.. We all know resin adds weight but the carbon.. Well that's minimal at best..better for weight than biax or glass..

skis ride better when the bottom is roughed up...back in the day racers would drag a new hull around behind their truck to rough it up

 

[txsuperjetfreak96]

Thx tom, i heard that also bout dragging the ski dwn a dirt road

 

[swapmeet]

It echoes the method I mentioned in step 1.

1. Clean Bonding surfaces must be free of any contaminants such as grease, oil, wax or mold release. Clean contaminated surfaces with lacquer thinner, acetone or other appropriate solvent. Wipe the surface with paper towels before the solvent dries. Clean surfaces before sanding to avoid sanding the contaminant into the surface. Follow all safety precautions when working with solvents.



2. Dry All bonding surfaces must be as dry as possible for good adhesion. If necessary, accelerate drying by warming the bonding surface with a hot air gun, hair dryer or heat lamp. Use fans to move the air in confined or enclosed spaces. Watch for condensation when working outdoors or whenever the temperature of the work environment changes.



3. Sanded Sand smooth non-porous surfaces—thoroughly abrade the surface. 80-grit aluminum oxide paper will provide a good texture for the epoxy to "key" into. Be sure the surface to be bonded is solid. Remove any flaking, chalking, blistering, or old coating before sanding. Remove all dust after sanding.

 

[txsuperjetfreak96]

Think i have a resin issue, didnt even stick to topdeck been useing th us composites pumps, dnt know if ive got the wrong pumps or what

 

[BruceSki]

Try a test piece on a piece of cardboard. Just wet out some glass on top of the cardboard and see if it kicks in a few hours.

It is possible your resin/hardener is bunk. I have had a bad batch of resin before.

When it is cold(Winter builds here, garage is sometimes 30 degrees) I use a small space heater to per heat the resin and hardener in their respective containers. I also use a space heater or propane heater directed and the work I do after its laid to get it to kick. Once it kicks it will make its own heat and fully cure within 20hrs or shorter in those temps.

 

[txsuperjetfreak96]

Thx bruce ill start leaving heat on it till its fully cured, ive sanded on this thing till im blue in the face, by hand wearing gloves, not sure if by hand is best or mechanical means