Super Jet this is strange!
- Thread starter incorp01
- Start date
ok, so since the last post, i have changed:
1. Cases and crank from ported/epoxied with jetmaniac welded crank TO stock cases and stock crank.
2. VFORCE 3's changed TO OEM fibre reeds/cages.
3. Stock CDI TO E.P.I.C ignition (needed a re-jet to 75 pilots)
4. cleaned the carbs and jets thoroughly again, replaced main filter.
5. bypassed the fuel switch, no change, went back to having switch.
6. new start stop switch, harness, stator wiring.
problem is still there!
I might try and re explain the problem again, the engine wont hold a nice smooth constant low speed, it is most noticable just off idle.
instead of a nice brrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr like my mates stocker with a b pipe, is more like bbbbrrrrr brrrrrrrrr brrrrrrr brrr brrrrrrrrrrrrrrr
its a pause in the power. like randomly pressing the stopper, why couldnt i explain it like that before lol.
im confident the jetting is correct, with the 72.5s i had a mad hesitation when i nailed it, this went away when i wound out the screws from 1 turn to 1 3/4.
installing the 75s made it clean at 1 turn on the lows, winding in to 1/2 made it hesitate.
im stumped this is killing me.
1. Cases and crank from ported/epoxied with jetmaniac welded crank TO stock cases and stock crank.
2. VFORCE 3's changed TO OEM fibre reeds/cages.
3. Stock CDI TO E.P.I.C ignition (needed a re-jet to 75 pilots)
4. cleaned the carbs and jets thoroughly again, replaced main filter.
5. bypassed the fuel switch, no change, went back to having switch.
6. new start stop switch, harness, stator wiring.
problem is still there!
I might try and re explain the problem again, the engine wont hold a nice smooth constant low speed, it is most noticable just off idle.
instead of a nice brrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr like my mates stocker with a b pipe, is more like bbbbrrrrr brrrrrrrrr brrrrrrr brrr brrrrrrrrrrrrrrr
its a pause in the power. like randomly pressing the stopper, why couldnt i explain it like that before lol.
im confident the jetting is correct, with the 72.5s i had a mad hesitation when i nailed it, this went away when i wound out the screws from 1 turn to 1 3/4.
installing the 75s made it clean at 1 turn on the lows, winding in to 1/2 made it hesitate.
im stumped this is killing me.
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sjetrider
615 Freeriders are addicted to T1 madness.
- Location
- in the 615 (Nashville)
bendix hanging out? Loose piece in waterbox partially blocking it occasionally?
- Location
- templeton
hey my new rebuild did what sounds like the same thing as yours and i took out the water seperator and put one of my one way motorcycle gas cap vents on instead. it seamed to be poping and farting and the issue was my main fuel filter was junk, and my one way vent was pluged. i no it sound stupid but it worked on mine. good luck
buxtonous
wannabe
- Location
- Plymouth, U.K
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D-Roc
I forgot!
- Location
- Dirty River Rider
why are you running such a cold spark plug? put a br8es in there and try it. your motor is missing because of how cold the spark is.
WFO Speedracer
A lifetime ban is like a lifetime warranty !
- Location
- Alabama
Me and Gil had this discussion yesterday, most people don't know that the engine heats up the spark plug, not vice versa, spark is neither hot, nor cold. BR8es-11 is the same heat range as BR8es but factory preset for a wider gap, try a set of BR8es plugs in there, unless you are running total loss you have way too much spark plug gap.Running too much spark plug gap will cause a miss at low rpms. Stock ignitions do not have enough juice to run .050 spark plug gaps which is what the BR8es-11 is factory preset at. :ugh2:
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D-Roc
I forgot!
- Location
- Dirty River Rider
oops i thought he was running a br11es for some reason, duh, my bad. i mis read that. so his gap is too big then? your totally right about the spark temp not changing, i said that wrong. the higher the number the better the insulator is in getting rid of the heat so the cooler the motor can run. not spark. that is correct way to say it yes?
- Location
- Germany
Year ago we had nearly the same problem with a strong ported engine. After trying differnt parts we closed And filled cooling system with water and pressured it. Looked with camera into plughole for leaking oring or Exhaustgasket........... But it was an airbubble in one transferport that leaks from water to port.
You have to leaktest the cooling system and case i think.
Andy
ps: with to much spark advance the engine rips hard but shake at low throttle like half full washdryer
You have to leaktest the cooling system and case i think.
Andy
ps: with to much spark advance the engine rips hard but shake at low throttle like half full washdryer
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WFO Speedracer
A lifetime ban is like a lifetime warranty !
- Location
- Alabama
I have also seen this once on a brand new Kawasaki X2, ran great on the trailer, as soon as you dunked it in the water it went down to one cylinder, it was also a pinhole between the cooling going right into a transfer port. I ended up taking the cylinder off, plugging the cooling off and dunking the pressurized cylinder into a shop sink filled with water, once I shot some pressure to it the pinhole was quite easy to find, I have only seen this once.
DAG
Yes, my balls tickled from that landing
- Location
- Charlotte, NC
with as many smart phones out today surly your able to get a video of the sound
Your using a Yamaha Landyard right, I did have a similar problem once with a stupid eBay lanyard lol
Have we ruled out the bendex, my buddy's rattles like a bass tard, or could a bearing be shot in your pump/mid shaft
Does it do this while on the trailer?
- Location
- CALIFORNIA
i am having the same problem. just reinforced hull and engine vibrates at idle. the back motor mount exhaust side is so blurry (like a paint can on a shaker)at idle but stops when revved. so you think i'm hitting the bed plate? i dented chamber on hull side so it wouldn't touch but not on inside. i will check it. my spacing is about 3.2 mm. would that cause anything? shouldn't it be 2.5mm?