Thru-hull adhesives

Brian does the plexus adhere to the PVC pipe well too? I was thinking of securing mine with G/Flex.

Is Plexus how you're sealing hull halves together as well?

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Sticks to anything. Dont use on brass it will eat it. We only bond decks with thickened epoxy. Ill do hoods and liners with plexus.

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BrightE's

Paul
Location
Seattle, WA
Ok cool. What's the hardness/toughness state of this Plexus stuff after it's cured or vulcanized or what not? Does it solidify to a rubbery state or a rock solid state like epoxy?
 

Roseand

The Weaponizer
Site Supporter
Location
Wisconsin
Quite a few different methods, and now I'm confused on what to do. Known hull builders=thickened epoxy/plexus/g-flex. The rest=5200.
Yes, the only thing that worries me about thickened epoxy is the flex, but thru hull tubes don't really flex anyways.
I've got the hull completely cut open, and I want to do it perfectly right the first time. This hulls gonna have to last me 4+ years.
 

BrightE's

Paul
Location
Seattle, WA
I'm doing gflex 655 on my through hull tubes on my freak. Its specifically formulated to withstand vibration and has a somewhat low modulus of elasticity compared to normal epoxies. Plus plexus is wicked expensive .

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BrightE's

Paul
Location
Seattle, WA
Will prob do 5200 on the aluminum cooling tubes though, just cause I've used it before there with no issues on my RN build.

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Sanoman

AbouttoKrash
Location
NE Tenn
Quite a few different methods, and now I'm confused on what to do. Known hull builders=thickened epoxy/plexus/g-flex. The rest=5200.
Yes, the only thing that worries me about thickened epoxy is the flex, but thru hull tubes don't really flex anyways.
I've got the hull completely cut open, and I want to do it perfectly right the first time. This hulls gonna have to last me 4+ years.

The thickened epoxy will work as others have said,but you're correct it won't flex.The tubes may not move,but the hull does.......One kit of the gflex will be enough to do the job.Look it up at west systems.

BrightE you may want to rethink the aluminum on your thru hull because of corrosion.
 
5200 is not made to bond to metals without applying a primer. 3M makes 4000 that is a fast cure and intended to bond/seal metal to fiberglass. It's very similar to the stuff the factory uses on the cooling lines.
 
Has anyone researched galvanic corrosion between SS and carbon ? Does SS cooling lines hold up longer than aluminum ? Pvc material I've heard is the way to go.
 
Stainless should have zero issues with carbon. Aluminum is the one with issues. I have heard the aluminum only corrodes when salt is introduced. We use aluminum for motor mount inserts and use a glass barrier to isolate them from the carbon.

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Im less worried with a flexing hull and more worried about pulling and twisting and tugging and cutting waterlines off and onto these tubes.
 

Roseand

The Weaponizer
Site Supporter
Location
Wisconsin
I'm tempted to try out the gflex, but I'm not so sure I want spend 30$+ shipping for the 655, just for installing thru hull tubes. I already have epoxy that I could thicken and spread glass over the joints, and I have 5200 already too. Do you truly need flexibility on cooling, driveshaft, trim, & steering tubes?

Also, when you rivet your stock exhaust tube back in, what adhesive/sealant do you use?
 
I'd say g flex, I have used it for many applications, will flex nicely with temp changes and hull/tube flex. I always cringe and question it each time I spend the money on a tube, but I am totaly thankful for getting it each time I use it.

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Sanoman

AbouttoKrash
Location
NE Tenn
Yes.And l guess you could say that.

JD,l have seen that 3M 4000 before but never have used it.Have you used it for a while and had good luck with it. lm always open to trying different bonding agents.l use the gflex on my hull inserts too and have not had a failure yet.
 
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