Blaster Too much quick steer?

So After a lot of cutting and a little drilling and taping I finally finish my quick steer mod last night. I rode it today and right after saying this is awesome (4 min. in) my cable broke. Made for an interesting ride through the inlet which isn't big and had a huge dive boat coming through it. Anyway I have a B2 cable and adapter showing up tomorrow. My concern in question is is it possible I went too far and will break the B2 cable also? Or is it to be expected that my stock one would of broken that fast? Maybe I should move one end or the other back? I just cant afford to not have a ski this weekend. Or for Daytona next week.


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jahimmelspach

Having A Blast
Location
SE Michigan
I broke one cable and bent another one on my sj setting up my Atp nozzle too aggressive. I would tone it back a bit especially I were about to go to a big free ride. Hull to hull is great, but any more than that, and cables will get bent/broken.
 

Fro Diesel

creative control
Location
Kzoo
B1 cables can't handle the forces with quick steer. The beefy b2 cable is a necessary upgrade.

Where did it break?
sent from Fro Diesel using tapatalk2
 
It broke some where in the middle inside the sleeve apparently because each end is fine and i can still steer right because its pushing not pulling.
 
Location
brisbane
A B1 cable is fine for Quicksteer if set up correctly. There is no more stress on the cable whether its in a factory setting or moved out to a quicksteer setting. The problem of breaking cables stems from not fully understanding how a control cable is put together . They must never be able to bottom out in either direction. If they do your riding time will be very short. The factory settings are so tight with free play, that if you move the cable at the helm, you must also adjust the stoppers. Even a B2 cable wont last if it is allowed to bottom out. You once asked what the adjusting bolts were on a 701QuickSteer, now you know.
 
The mod down by the pump is fine, but when you mod it at the steering, as Dave mentioned, you will kill any cable without moving the stops.
 
It seemed to hit the stops before the cable bottomed out but I guess obviously it didn't. I appreciate the info. I will be more thorough when I put the now one on. Maybe next year I can get a complete steering set up.
 
Max the steering out, then pop the quick connect off and see if there is a small amount of throw left in it in either direction, that way you know there is a buffer at max steering.
 
Ya it was a little tricky. Of course a 20 ft wide dive boat was right there when I came around the corner. Got me B2 cable going now. I think I should of just done a pro tec nozzle. The steering is awesome but it gets real stiff from time to time if you are all the way in one direction and go to bring it back. Not sure whats up there but I will be going out the inlet tomorrow again for sure.
 

jahimmelspach

Having A Blast
Location
SE Michigan
Ya it was a little tricky. Of course a 20 ft wide dive boat was right there when I came around the corner. Got me B2 cable going now. I think I should of just done a pro tec nozzle. The steering is awesome but it gets real stiff from time to time if you are all the way in one direction and go to bring it back. Not sure whats up there but I will be going out the inlet tomorrow again for sure.

one of the reasons it may be getting stiff after full throw is the cable sleeve bending and binding up with the cable ends. (im talking at the pump end) check back there and make sure the cable is straight and not binding at all. this is what happened on my SJ. i could bend it back with my hands for a temporary fix, but it was never as smooth as before. basically, just make sure you don't have too much nozzle throw in either direction.
 
So I broke the Ocean Pro Nozzle all to hell at Daytona, which made me realize how stupid it was to try to use it for surf being that long. Anyways I went back to the stock nozzle with the quick steer setting moved out to the end under the hood with the stock nozzle. It seemed smother at first but now kind of stiff like the cable might have bent. Any thoughts?
 
there are two different yamaha cable designs. i have found that the steering cables that have the blue outer coating, have the solid stainless steel inner steer cable, same as the kawi steer cables. the red cable housing has the multi strand inner steer cable, plastic coated, then wire wrapped and red outer. the blue cables are garbage just like the kawi cables. i have snapped about a dozen sxr cables , using the umi pole and quick steering. the solid cable snaps in the middle about where it bends by the waterbox or where the threads are exposed where the cable end screws on at the bars. i have only broke one red cable on a superjet and it grenaded cause it was a surf boat exposed to salt water. the outer cable housing cracked and the reinforcement strands rotted away.the inner stranded and coated steer cable never broke but wouldnt work without an outer cover. bottom line is i think the red cables are higher quality and less prone to breakage. if you flick the bars back and forth very quickly, like playing the pump wash squirt game with your buddies, thats a sure fire recipe for a broken cable. and if you have any threads exposed at the cable ends, cover every thread with an extra nut to reinforce it. adjust the cable first at the steering so it has the correct throw without bottoming out or pulling too far, then at the nozzle.
 
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