Turfing question

When installing, I know to put layers of the dap contact cement on the ski and the back of the turf.

As long as the turf and the ski do not touch, how long do I have from after I applied the cement to lay down the turf? If I take my time on the install, will the cement dry up on the ski/turf before I put them together? Or will they both stay wet until I press them together? Hop that makes sense
 
You want the contact cement to dry before applying the turf! If you try to do it with the cement wet, it will never stick.
Makes sure it's dry- no longer glossy. Then apply. And once they touch, that's it. If you don't like where it is, you have to rip it up and put new contact cement on.
 
Ok what speed are we drinking beer here because 1 pint of hobgoblin takes me about 3 minutes. I admit I have a problem. Messed it up so many times now sticking to foam fast 74 classic spray. banned in all states!
 

Sanoman

AbouttoKrash
Location
NE Tenn
I also read through this thread and really liked the way it turned out. Have a question about that too. http://www.x-h2o.com/index.php?threads/how-to-turf-with-no-seems.15259/

1) Does he put the contact cement on the ski first, then put the dowel rods over the cement? If so, wouldn't the cement bond permanently to the rods?

1.Two to three coats on each surface,15-20 min apart depending on conditions (up to 2 hours is the window,but as the directions say"reapply another coat") Dry to the touch
2.The dowels are laid down on the glued prepared surface.l also like using wax paper in areas,just don't let it lay there to long or it will stick.As well as the dowels will stick too.
3.The heat gun is your friend

PM me if you have any other questions
Sano
 
I worked at a laminate shop when I was a kid. You can see the glue dry. It dries fastest if you turn your compressor down and gently blow air over the glue. You want the glue tacky not dry. The dryer it gets the less it sticks. If the glue sticks to your finger when you touch it and it pulls away from the hull then its not dry enough. Too many layers is also counterproductive. Just one layer on solid surfaces and two on turf. Glue the turf first then glue the hull then put a second layer on the turf. Dry to the tacky point then stick them together. Due to the nature of ruber cement when you get it to the tacky stage there might be a few small wet spots because the glue is thicker in some spots , try and get those small spots dryer with compressed air but dont sweat those small spots. In our shop we used shade slats instead of dowels. The shades that are in practicaly every window of every house , cut them appart and use the seperate slats placed strategically to keep the two surfaces from touching till you want them to touch. Also in the countertop section of HomeDepot they sell contact cement by Willsonart , its better than the Dap brand.
 
No mallets or hammers or rolling pins are needed for turfing. I only use heat when im forcing the turf to turn corners its not supposed to.
 
And dont think you have to do a piece all in one shot. When doing a big piece like the tray you can just glue up the first ten inches or so starting from the front foothold . This way your not fighting a huge piece thats covered in sticky glue. Just tackle it in three or four seperate glue ups.

Also ever notice the turf piece seems bigger when you try and stick a piece down. If you start at one end by the time you get to the other end its longer than needed. In certain situations I stick both ends first and work twords the center. Like blaster foot trays.
 

SkiPro

Trim down for what!?!?!?
Location
E-Town, Ok
Ok what speed are we drinking beer here because 1 pint of hobgoblin takes me about 3 minutes. I admit I have a problem. Messed it up so many times now sticking to foam fast 74 classic spray. banned in all states!
Hobgoblin is my SH**T! you just went up in my book Pirate, I don't care what they say about you.. ;)
 

Sanoman

AbouttoKrash
Location
NE Tenn
No mallets or hammers or rolling pins are needed for turfing. I only use heat when im forcing the turf to turn corners its not supposed to.

Fred is saying hammer it down with a mallet to secure the turf better.And l totally agree
 
I know what hes saying , im not sure why people think they need to hammer it down but with my experience if you need anything to hammer it down your doing it wrong. Or just overkill.

Are you the Sanoman that used to sell sano grips long ago?

Fred is saying hammer it down with a mallet to secure the turf better.And l totally agree
 

Sanoman

AbouttoKrash
Location
NE Tenn
I know what hes saying , im not sure why people think they need to hammer it down but with my experience if you need anything to hammer it down your doing it wrong. Or just overkill.

Are you the Sanoman that used to sell sano grips long ago?

No,but used to do business with him! l used to buy the smooth black turf.

Guess we will have to agree that have a different approach to turfing.
 
Location
PHILLY
^^^ Too funny! Of all the questions I've been asking you Don,....I totally forgot to ask about the Sano Pads relation!! At least now I know! You still are a turf king though by looking at your turf jobs!
What ever happened to that company anyway? I used them for my old 550 back in 87!
 
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