Type 9 problems

Looking for some help here. Have a type 9 im running in a 701 SJ. Motors all stock except for the Exhaust. Past 2 seasons, ive been having nothing but issues with the coupler between the manifold and the expansion chamber. First time, the clamps came loose and we got that fixed. Beginning of this season, the coupler had a couple tears in it so i replaced it. Now i have the exact same issue in the exact same place. Ive got another coupler on order, but im hoping for some ideas of what to check that causing this to happen cause this is getting old.
 

YAMA CAT

Catnip Junkie!
Location
B'ham, AL
It's more likely an alignment issue. If you are going through couplers. If you are not using all three lord mounts,it will put extra wear on the coupler.

Buy a stick of coupler material and cut your own. 3-1/2diameter X 2-3/16”

Take care in aligning your pipe to the manifold. You need to adjust your bracket, shim the mounts to keep in line. so have even slotted the pipe bracket.

Pictures are helpful too.
 
I called FPP yesterday after posting this to order the coupler and see if they had any ideas of what could be causing it. They said its definately vibration and to check to Motor mounts and the O-ring that connects the two pieces together to make sure its not damaged. Motor mounts are good, but i could not find the o-ring. I bought it used off a buddy and he doesnt remember it ever having one when he used it. So, hopefully thats the issue.
As far as the carbs go, I didnt rejet them as FPP specs called for the same size jets as the stock carbs already have.
 

QuickMick

API 1104 AWS CWI
Site Supporter
did you reject the carbs?
if not it may be detonation that is causing this

HUH?????????


You need to goop the inside of that coupler with some high temp silicone to help keep the heat away from it. put the O ring on, apply some silicone. Put the coupler on the manifold and apply a bead of silicone to the face of the pipe where it meets the O ring.
This is what JSS also says to do and Im on my 2nd season of the same coupler.
Make sure you dont have any broken lord mounts either.
 
Im gonna order the oring today i hope that fixes it. WIth all the oil in there from the exhaust. WIll the silicone stick? I just dont want to put silicone in there and have it getting stuck elsewhere in the exhaust when it starts pulling free.

HUH?????????


You need to goop the inside of that coupler with some high temp silicone to help keep the heat away from it. put the O ring on, apply some silicone. Put the coupler on the manifold and apply a bead of silicone to the face of the pipe where it meets the O ring.
This is what JSS also says to do and Im on my 2nd season of the same coupler.
Make sure you dont have any broken lord mounts either.
 
Location
Ohio
I don't recall a oring on mine. But I could be wrong...it was a long time ago. My Speedwerx had 2!

I would say it is absolutely alignment. I wouldn't put a drop of goop in there IMO.


And there is way better aftermarket coupler material to choose from....I wouldn't buy from Factory P.

I used to buy it here but they have zero communication and it seems the site is down now.

http://www.hightempsilicone.com/
 
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Big Kahuna

Administrator
Location
Tuscaloosa, AL
go to a heavy duty truck supply parts house. They sell the exact same silicone coupler material.

if you use silicone for the oring, just use enough to hold it in place until you get the pipe on.
 

Big Kahuna

Administrator
Location
Tuscaloosa, AL
oh, vibration is most likely not the cause. These pipes require more maintenance and setup (than a wet pipe). If your alignment is off then it will pull the pipe to the side exposing the oring, which then lets the gases blow by and burn or tear your coupler. This is why you need to check alignment and possibly slot the mounting tabs. You do not want to have to force the lord mount over to the tab. If you are having to do so, your alignment is off. Cure: Slot the tabs. The bolt/nut should just slide right in place. another trick, if the coupler is suppose to be 2", cut it 1/8 of an inch shorter that way you know you are getting full contact at the oring.
 
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oh, vibration is most likely not the cause. These pipes require more maintenance and setup (than a wet pipe). If your alignment is off then it will pull the pipe to the side exposing the oring, which then lets the gases blow by and burn or tear your coupler. This is why you need to check alignment and possibly slot the mounting tabs. You do not want to have to force the lord mount over to the tab. If you are having to do so, your alignment is off. Cure: Slot the tabs. The bolt/nut should just slide right in place. another trick, if the coupler is suppose to be 2", cut it 1/8 of an inch shorter that way you know you are getting full contact at the oring.

Wouldnt the o-ring missing be the cause of the alignment being off, allowing the gases to blow by and tear the coupler? I am pretty sure the pipe alignment is on as all the bolts line up and screw in with no issues. If it ws off, you would have to really be cranking on it to get it to line up correct
 

QuickMick

API 1104 AWS CWI
Site Supporter
Im gonna order the oring today i hope that fixes it. WIth all the oil in there from the exhaust. WIll the silicone stick? I just dont want to put silicone in there and have it getting stuck elsewhere in the exhaust when it starts pulling free.

To fix it correctlly you will have to remove the pipe and clean the mating surface clean with a good grease cutting cleaner. Xylene works better than acetone. apply the high heat silicone then the O ring. then more High Temp silicone.

DONT use radiator hose from an auto parts store. Go to a marine shop and get some Exhaust hose for a boat. Have them cut it to the length you need. 2 3/16" long.
I think I have a extra piece I can throw your way if needed.

DONT USE GOOP.

http://www.jetskisolutions.com/inst..._Solutions_Type_4_8_9_coupler_kit_and_st.html

From that site:
9. Do another dry run installation (with coupler, but no band clamps) to get used to the stinger piece. It is very helpful the lube the stinger end or hose with spit or Windex. The larger diameter makes pushing the end into the hose a bit tougher, but not having to force the coupler over the large barb MORE than makes up for this. If you notice the coupler seems too long, and is preventing the pipe from coming up snug (or very close) to the manifold, then use a razor blade to trim some off. We have to do this on most installs.
10. Now that you have properly aligned and �dry run installed� the pipe, you are ready for final install. We do not use the O rings, instead, we fit the coupler to the pipe, then fill the groove with Ultra Copper automotive silicone. This is the highest temp silicone we know of. Fill the groove generously, then drop the T bolt band clamp over the coupler and lower the pipe in place and install. Don�t forget to install the two stinger clamps over the hose first!!!
 
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Big Kahuna

Administrator
Location
Tuscaloosa, AL
Wouldnt the o-ring missing be the cause of the alignment being off, allowing the gases to blow by and tear the coupler? I am pretty sure the pipe alignment is on as all the bolts line up and screw in with no issues. If it ws off, you would have to really be cranking on it to get it to line up correct

oh, vibration is most likely not the cause. These pipes require more maintenance and setup (than a wet pipe). If your alignment is off then it will pull the pipe to the side exposing the o-ring, which then lets the gases blow by and burn or tear your coupler. This is why you need to check alignment and possibly slot the mounting tabs. You do not want to have to force the lord mount over to the tab. If you are having to do so, your alignment is off. Cure: Slot the tabs. The bolt/nut should just slide right in place. another trick, if the coupler is suppose to be 2", cut it 1/8 of an inch shorter that way you know you are getting full contact at the oring.


See Quote.
 
this is all very strange. i know my o ring does not have a perfect seal and my lord mounts are not perfectly straight and i never have issues and my ski runs great all the time 3 seasons with my dry pipe. i replaced the coupler last season cuz it was clearly on there for many many years and it finally cracked. i guess i have good luck sometimes. buy your silicone coupler from mcmaster carr. it was like 25 bucks for a foot of it. i know factory has got to be over charging for that stuff.
 
See Quote.

BK,
I see what your saying if it wasnt lined up right, it would pull and expose the oring, but with no oring there, its not going to seal no matter what. I put the pipe on without the coupler and it appears to line up. My thought is that with no oring, the pipe just vibrates on that connection and the gases just keep putting pressure on the coupler. and a combination of both is whats causing it to fail. I forgot to take a pic yesterday, but basically the coupler appears fine except on the side next to the hull. In that area there is probably a 1inch long area by 1.5 inch area in the middle of the coupler where there is 4 different jagged tears pushed outwards at the tears. The largest tear is approx. 1/4 inch long if that.
 
this is all very strange. i know my o ring does not have a perfect seal and my lord mounts are not perfectly straight and i never have issues and my ski runs great all the time 3 seasons with my dry pipe. i replaced the coupler last season cuz it was clearly on there for many many years and it finally cracked. i guess i have good luck sometimes. buy your silicone coupler from mcmaster carr. it was like 25 bucks for a foot of it. i know factory has got to be over charging for that stuff.

I already have the coupler ordered. Hopefully i wont need to buy another one for a long time. If so, ill check them out though.
 
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