Unequal cylinder temps on tpe 964

That’s some good info in there. So did you find it to be the case for sure they were used in a particular model ski. Wonder what Ed’s opinion on this. He talks about how much trouble he goes through to refinish the metal on the valve seat. Makes sense yami would use these on 1200s. They were larger motors that vibrate more. These days a lot of us using 701 platform are at 1000 cc or more with way bigger pistons and more vibration. Why don’t we all have the offset valve. What’s downside with them ?
 

Quinc

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I bought a set of the 46i carbs by mistake and those are the kidney pieces they had. I don't think the carbs had ever been opened before.
 
Location
Stockton
That’s some good info in there. So did you find it to be the case for sure they were used in a particular model ski. Wonder what Ed’s opinion on this.

Ed was not aware of them, But very interested... I gave him all the info in Mar 2019 when he had my carbs...
 

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Piston walls and wash were very odd. Millennium says trash was in cylinder first time. Ran one tank lost compression but it did the same thing the second time they were redone. It’s not losing compression like it did first time but still same 8 streaks and strange piston wash. It was purposely jetted rich and ran 32:1 klotz. Eric doubled checked clearance. Was dead on. I really don’t get it.
 

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What is your piston wash like?
Here’s some pics below
Ed was not aware of them, But very interested... I gave him all the info in Mar 2019 when he had my carbs...
Man how is that possible Ed doesn’t know about these. I deff need to try these out. I did find a tiny dust or hair bunny in the return jet to the tank . I think it maybe was situating over top of the tiny hole occasionally and raising fuel pressure. No idea how it got past micro screens in carbs? It doesn’t seem to dribble much unless I really rev it hard on trailer and it comes back to very low idle. It’s much less overall
 
Here’s some advice I can give having a 964 myself,

first have you pressure tested the cooling jacket?

do you have cracked domes?

what head shell and domes are you running?

the streaking you see is from water getting in the cylinder.

It is also super important to wash nik cylinders with soap and water before installing because the nik is actually porous and will hold a lot of dirt in the cylinder wall.

to me it looks like you have a water ingestion issue.
 
600 gallons on this original nik
 

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One thing I would caution is that the shiny surface does tricky things visually especially in pictures, be careful saying that it is scored based on a picture.
 
One thing I would caution is that the shiny surface does tricky things visually especially in pictures, be careful saying that it is scored based on a picture.
I think the dark discoloration is not removed material but aluminum from the piston that is wiped onto the Nik from the presence of water ingestion.

more pictures of a TPE 1200 with about 100 gallons on it. Some streaking is normal because you can’t keep 100% of the water out.

but if OP has not been flipping it and riding hard, I would say he’s got water coming into the motor from somewhere. Pin holes in the casting or domes that are chattering on the head can do this.
 

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I think the dark discoloration is not removed material but aluminum from the piston that is wiped onto the Nik from the presence of water ingestion.

more pictures of a TPE 1200 with about 100 gallons on it. Some streaking is normal because you can’t keep 100% of the water out.

but if OP has not been flipping it and riding hard, I would say he’s got water coming into the motor from somewhere. Pin holes in the casting or domes that are chattering on the head can do this.

I wasn't really responding to you but the people above who were talking about scoring.

What you're saying makes sense to me.
 
Here’s some advice I can give having a 964 myself,

first have you pressure tested the cooling jacket?

do you have cracked domes?

what head shell and domes are you running?

the streaking you see is from water getting in the cylinder.

It is also super important to wash nik cylinders with soap and water before installing because the nik is actually porous and will hold a lot of dirt in the cylinder wall.

to me it looks like you have a water ingestion issue.
A lot of what you are saying makes sense. I have not pressure tested cooling system. Sounds like great place to start. These pics showed out of order. 2 are the first time I ran it one tank fuel. Deff alum on the nik. It lost compression about 10 lbs on rear and Lil less on front
First build lasted years with zero strips or marks. Looked like new other than crank failure scratched one cylinder. Was running oem cast head. Millennium broke head removing it and damaged domes I was told ? Was stuck bad with arp head studs. Maybe they damaged top of cylinder seal also. I bought new billet head from pnp. I don’t think he made many of these. I’ve not seen another like it. Anyway Eric put it together and cleaned it well. Clearance was unknown first time but I assume Eric checked it. I was riding around pretty slow and flat for that tank deff no water down carbs. Can’t remember if first build was pressure tested After this 1st build failure I didn’t see any oring damage or dome clatter failure. No idea how water could have gotten in there

millennium charged me to redo supposedly because no or not enough oil was used or water went down carbs or trash not cleaned from cylinder. Eric is ocd. Highly doubt that. Anyway not cool imho. Second time build clearance was double checked same pistons cleaned up and reused Have 2 sets of domes low and high compression. Have tried both still have small stripe marks in cylinder. No Comp loss. Can’t feel these like the first failure. It only has 4 tanks fuel through it though and looks worse than my previous with years of use on it. Both cylinders match with stripes so not sure if front is running hotter because of this
 
You have some good scoring going on. Hard for me to tell from your pics, but your wash looks terrible. Maybe an air leak?
Yes some alum on the cylinder walls for sure. No air leak that was obvious. Smooth consistent idle. Piston wash didn’t have much time to develop. Only one tank on 1st pics. It was setup rich for breaking in also
 
Forged Pistons? What is the Bore Clearance? Ring Gap?

The Nikasil Bores are probably dead-on, but Piston Diameters vary individually from the Factory.

For Cast Iron Sleeves, the Machinist will measure each new Piston Diameter and then Bore each Cylinder accordingly to proper clearance needed.

For Nikasil Cylinders, the Bore Diameter is fixed, so the only Clearance adjustment available is the Ring Gap. Or use another Piston.

Sometimes Piston Rings have an "Up" orientation. The engraved numbers on the Ring, if any, should face up.

It's worth mentioning that most, if not all, Cylinders should be washed/brushed (nylon bristles) with hot water and soap, wiped dry till no grime shows up on a white paper towel, then oil the Sleeves to prevent rust (on Cast Iron). I consider this mandatory for all Cast Iron Sleeves, and probably a good idea for new Nikasil Cylinders.

And for used Nikasil Cylinders, I understand that the cleaning process involves Muriatic Acid to remove any Aluminum/Iron Grime embedded in the Nikasil Bores, before installing a new set of Pistons and/or Rings.
I believe Eric gives them specifics on each set of pistons. He uses custom Wisco pistons. cylinder was cleaned well. Found this on millenniums website. The stripes in cylinder have the same 8 spot placement
This is what the head looks like also
 

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Was that after idling awhile or riding with a load on it. Mine look sim after idling but much more even after a higher speed run
 
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