Unmolested 02 SJ.....For now.....

W

wydopen

Guest
What benefit do tubbies provide (for freestyle)?

you can actually lay your ski on a rail...i must lean alot harder than most people cause when i watch people ride my ski that dont have tubbies they rde around on the bottom of the ski...my style is more gas, more leaned over i guess...for someone that is just gettinginto it they will probally be turning more than they are doing "tricks"....thats why tubbies would be before reinforcemnt/footholds if i was building a ski..
 
how hard is it to install tubbies and where can i read up on them? are they called "tubbies"? i also want to cut my stock pole, the stock one feels to long, but im not sure where to start, obviously cutting it right up in the middle is a bad idea haha, how do you reinforce it to being as strong as it it now so it wont snap later? ... i figured since i would want to install the pole spring might as well cut the pole while its off
 

Endo

Non-tree hugger
Just a quick update. Installed a worx 201 and:bigeyes:. Love the improved hookup. No more slowing down in heavy chop and big improvement in cornering! The deceleration is going to take some getting used to. No more chopping the throttle and coasting. Its great for setting up for a turn though. I'm thinking impeller next along with shortening the pole.
 

SMP

Location
Denton, TX
I like your list FLY6584. I'd prbly go with something similar but with a few additional notes.

- I always get bilge(s) and bars first if you can't afford to do everything in Stage 1 at once.
- I would also add a pro-tec nozzle at Stage 1.

- Cutting/adding handholds at Stage 2, or maybe it's just implied to be part of "Seal Stock Hood!!!".

- Add a pump stuffer at some point, maybe Stage 3, just because that stage looks a little thinner than the others.

- I would also add a trim system to the list down around Tubbys (before IMO).
 

Endo

Non-tree hugger
Well finally cut my pole 3.5" a few weeks ago. What a difference!! Subs are easier and being able to stand further up in the tray allows for a whole new range of motion/balance. I was a little hesitant at first as it didn't make much of a difference on a 750 I had (ac -2) but on the SJ definite difference. I must admit I was very nervous taking that first saw cut into the pole but all turned out good. One suggestion that I can make is to be sure and clean the bracket out well. I noticed after remeasuring that the cut pole was not fitting all the way into the bracket. After a closer inspection I found a small bit of adhesive near one of the limiting ribs. A little more scraping and all was good.

By the way I used bolts instead of rivets. And JB weld as my adhesive.

Next is a prop from Impros......
 

ToddW

Web GuY
Location
Folsom Lake - CA
you can actually lay your ski on a rail...i must lean alot harder than most people cause when i watch people ride my ski that dont have tubbies they rde around on the bottom of the ski...my style is more gas, more leaned over i guess...for someone that is just gettinginto it they will probally be turning more than they are doing "tricks"....thats why tubbies would be before reinforcemnt/footholds if i was building a ski..

I really lean my ski w/out tubbies to the point of it ALMOST breaking loose.. Sounds like tubbies wouldreally benefit me! :)
 

Endo

Non-tree hugger
Well since I am stuck in the big freeze I decided to get my footholds installed. I ended up going with a set of REVs. The install wasn't to bad but making that first cut was a little intimidating. I purchased my glassing supplies from US composites which consisted of:

635 epoxy (medium)
1708 biax
cabosil
glass bubbles
rollers
4 lb foam

I also had some s glass from previous jobs.

I don't have alot to add to all of the well written threads on here but I can say it isn't that hard if you just take your time. I just started with a cardboard template and kept cutting and fitting till I had a good fit. Since the revs have no flange on the back of the hold I did find it helpfull to remove as little foam as possible so that that you don't recess the holds to far in. I then used cabosil after the foaming to smooth out the transition between the tray and footholds before glassing in. Seemed to really lock the holds in solid.



 
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