Upgrading stock 08 pump to Solas 144 Mag and 9/15 Hooker

Im getting ready to upgrade the pump and prop on my 08 SJ. Im going with the Solas 144 mag with freestyle pump cone and a hooker 9/15 prop. Ill also be adding the Thrust EZ pro flow trim. Ive searched around and couldnt find any solid info on a mag pump swap. I was wondering if it required the engine removal and a cold fusion alignment tool or do I just pull the old pump and drop in the new one? Ill post up pics of the entire process.
 
some people pull the pump, minus the impeller housing (the 4 long pump bolts and the 2 rear 14mm) but i prefer to do a full tear down and remove the engine and midshaft assembly. just think back to front when building a ski. id like to say the job is simple because iv done it enough times, but if its your first, your gonna want a buddy helping who knows whats up.
 
As long as the pump slides into the midshaft freely your midshaft should be pretty close to being aligned and you should be fine. However, being that it takes less than an hour to pull the motor and midshaft . the correct way would be to buy the midshaft alignment tool and reshim the pump and midshaft correctly. and then shim the motor accordingly. This also allows you to re antisieze/ locktite all the bolts and clean any corrosion that may have built up already.
 
Thanks for all the replies guys. I think Im going to put the pump in but I may wait on the trim. I dont want to punch anymore holes in the hull. Ive got a dasa power plant lined up so hopefully a AM hull shortly after
 

Proformance1

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I normally dont say much on this topic but have seen many wiped out mid shafts. Drive shafts and pumps lately. If anyone on here feels you can pull a pump and leave in the wear ring and change pumps and have it alligned id love to see their machining skills. Every pump has a tolerance and from Yamaha to Solas change. Good luck
Nothing against your question. Just dislike some answers here to questions sometimes.
 

Roseand

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I normally dont say much on this topic but have seen many wiped out mid shafts. Drive shafts and pumps lately. If anyone on here feels you can pull a pump and leave in the wear ring and change pumps and have it alligned id love to see their machining skills. Every pump has a tolerance and from Yamaha to Solas change. Good luck
Nothing against your question. Just dislike some answers here to questions sometimes.

We said to leave in the wear ring because therefore your pump alignment shouldn't change.. Not recommending to pull your pump entirely out and then shove it back in without aligning. If I were installing an expensive pump setup I'd for sure pull the motor. Worst case scenario, leaving the wear ring attached to the hull is better than removing it in terms of alignment.
 
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Make sure to clean the driveshaft tunnel before reassembly. Put some pipe sealant between the stainless and aluminum parts or else they will become one.
 

Big Kahuna

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We said to leave in the wear ring because therefore your pump alignment shouldn't change.. Not recommending to pull your pump entirely out and then shove it back in without aligning. If I were installing an expensive pump setup I'd for sure pull the motor. Worst case scenario, leaving the wear ring attached to the hull is better than removing it in terms of alignment.
What happens when the drive shaft is not exactly in the same location (Centered) as the one you removed? You just bolted up the pump with the drive shaft in a bind.
 
I pulled the wear ring, pump and nozzle out all still bolted together. Then I removed the 4 long 10mm bolts and separated them. Was that the wrong way? I inspected the old prop and wear ring for damage or wear and both looked great so I just bolted the wear ring to the new mag pump. I then checked the new prop blades for clearance and spun it by hand to make sure all was clear.
 
the only way to check alignment with your midshaft assembly is to remove the engine and midshaft all together. this is required when installing any new drive line components. you dont just bolt a new engine in with out re shimming/aligning nah meen. this is advice coming from someone who just striped the splines on driveshaft/midshaft from imperfect alignment. oops
 

Big Kahuna

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the only way to check alignment with your midshaft assembly is to remove the engine and midshaft all together. this is required when installing any new drive line components. you dont just bolt a new engine in with out re shimming/aligning nah meen. this is advice coming from someone who just striped the splines on driveshaft/midshaft from imperfect alignment. oops
Been there and done that.
 

Proformance1

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Finally posts i can read and smile about. Not because each of us have done it ourselves, but because we 'know" its incorrect. I have done it, and you can do it. for a short amount of time. All were saying is that when the bearings fail, or splines are missing in a few hours to a few years, you'll know why. If your just swapping parts, impellers, etc to check performance then fine. Once you know its good, then pull the motor and mid shaft and do it right.
 

Big Kahuna

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Finally posts i can read and smile about. Not because each of us have done it ourselves, but because we 'know" its incorrect. I have done it, and you can do it. for a short amount of time. All were saying is that when the bearings fail, or splines are missing in a few hours to a few years, you'll know why. If your just swapping parts, impellers, etc to check performance then fine. Once you know its good, then pull the motor and mid shaft and do it right.
errrr, I got 30 minutes out of a brand new Short Shaft and Drive Shaft. Mine just stripped, replaced them thinking they had just worn out......... turns out my motor alignment was way off. I did not check it.....
 
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