FL-cracker
X-H2O
- Location
- old exit 72 Melbourne
Anyone have some pics of there ported cases?
Using Devcon putty to fill 62t cases
- Thread starter D-Roc
- Start date
WaveDemon
Not Dead - Notable Member
- Location
- Hell, Florida
there are pics of ported cases on this site if you search.
- Location
- Near Seattle WA
Crankcase epoxy
I have used many different products to epoxy cases & intake manifolds over the years. The Devcon does seem to shrink, and is too expensive. I agree that Marine-tex is a good solution, but it's messy and heavy also.
I sell A-B Epoxy to many builders. and have had excellent results for years. One of the benefits besides "low price" is that it's "non- metallic" and has no metal filler like Devcon.. If it becomes dis-lodged and enters the combustion chamber, it crushes easily and won't cause any internal damage on the way out the exhaust port. It's easy to mix and apply, you can smooth it with water to reduce the finish work later.
I like to beadblast the crankcases, manifolds, etc before applying filler materials. If you cannot blast them, then you might try scuffing the surface with a fresh "sanding roll". http://www.watcon.com/Catalog_Pages/AB_Putty.htm
Thanks,
Randy
I have used many different products to epoxy cases & intake manifolds over the years. The Devcon does seem to shrink, and is too expensive. I agree that Marine-tex is a good solution, but it's messy and heavy also.
I sell A-B Epoxy to many builders. and have had excellent results for years. One of the benefits besides "low price" is that it's "non- metallic" and has no metal filler like Devcon.. If it becomes dis-lodged and enters the combustion chamber, it crushes easily and won't cause any internal damage on the way out the exhaust port. It's easy to mix and apply, you can smooth it with water to reduce the finish work later.
I like to beadblast the crankcases, manifolds, etc before applying filler materials. If you cannot blast them, then you might try scuffing the surface with a fresh "sanding roll". http://www.watcon.com/Catalog_Pages/AB_Putty.htm
Thanks,
Randy
In my experience with shifter kart motors (very high rpm, extended periods) the best bet is regular 2 part epoxy (A-B or US Composites stuff) for intake manifols/carbs. It holds as well as any other, and when it does start to crack it is easily consumed and digested without substantial damage, as previously stated.
I don't know how well the US Composites epoxy would work in a case, though. Intake it's fine (same material glass reeds are made of).
I don't know how well the US Composites epoxy would work in a case, though. Intake it's fine (same material glass reeds are made of).
wildman326
Who else?
- Location
- Kansas
Here's a few pics of the cases I'm going to use on my Lamey Cylinder. I had to do massive porting on these because the Lamey has so much more transfer clearance at the cyl to case union.
I've had JB weld stick and also had it come off. Same with the marine tex paste. I've heard that the media blasting is very important and blasted these before I filled them.
I finger-ported and filled these with my last motor and needed to do a re-port to match the Lamey. The first pass of JB weld stuck very well and has lasted at least 2 seasons.
Even when I blew a cylinder and had to use stock cylinders for a short period I felt that I could feel the flow difference. That may sound odd, and maybe it's just me "wanting" it to help, but . . .
I've had JB weld stick and also had it come off. Same with the marine tex paste. I've heard that the media blasting is very important and blasted these before I filled them.
I finger-ported and filled these with my last motor and needed to do a re-port to match the Lamey. The first pass of JB weld stuck very well and has lasted at least 2 seasons.
Even when I blew a cylinder and had to use stock cylinders for a short period I felt that I could feel the flow difference. That may sound odd, and maybe it's just me "wanting" it to help, but . . .
Attachments
waxhead
wannabe backflipper
- Location
- gold coast
nice job on the cases
D-Roc
I forgot!
- Location
- Dirty River Rider
nice, thanks for posting up some more pics for reference. I will be starting on the grinding this week.
blasterboy1980
It must go faster!
- Location
- Key West
I use JB weld and add carbon fiber material to the mix, its super strong, and of course withstands heat
Waste Land
Non Multa Sed Multum
- Location
- Florence, AL
what kind of engine setup are you running...from what Paul told me, unless your running bigbore or really increasing your CCs it cant help too much. Just good for BBK/strokers, etc
F
Freestyleriverrat
Guest
Sanford
ECF
- Location
- Freeride capital of the world
Since right now I'm in the process to epoxy a set of cases, I did some research and found that MarineTex, Devcon (all) and PC11 have an upper heat limit of 200 degrees. The longer it is exposed to high levels of heat (even below their limit), these products have a higher fail factor.
As for the A&B epoxy sticks, I've used them in the past to make intake manifold runner wings (Edelbrock Victor Jr.). But only because I needed something to keep shape while it hardens and is the only option. I've found that these putty like epoxies don't impregnate into the opposing metal as well as the liquid based.
Ironically, J.B Weld limit is 500 degrees :biggthumpup:
FYI; for pro builders:
There is a company called Cotronics Corp. (in N.Y) that makes several high temperature epoxies. Their "Duralco 4540" is rated at 500 degrees and looks ideal for these applications. Comes in pints & gallon.
As for the A&B epoxy sticks, I've used them in the past to make intake manifold runner wings (Edelbrock Victor Jr.). But only because I needed something to keep shape while it hardens and is the only option. I've found that these putty like epoxies don't impregnate into the opposing metal as well as the liquid based.
Ironically, J.B Weld limit is 500 degrees :biggthumpup:
FYI; for pro builders:
There is a company called Cotronics Corp. (in N.Y) that makes several high temperature epoxies. Their "Duralco 4540" is rated at 500 degrees and looks ideal for these applications. Comes in pints & gallon.
- Location
- Lake Havasu City, AZ USA
Is that what is in those ported 62T cases I bought from you about a year ago?
I still havent used those yet BTW..:afro: :biggrin:
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