Other Vaccum Bagging

[WFO Speedracer]

Any kind of plastic that will hold a vacuum will work, on the sides you should be good as you will probably be able to do that part wrinkle free, on the tray that will be a lot more difficult but then its under turf and it won't really matter.The most important thing is to use good quality tape and come up with a good way to secure the vacuum valve to the bag, small vacuum leaks will drive you nut trying to locate them, the links below have a fairly cheap vacuum bagging valve, and a much better valve, buy the more expensive one, trust me its worth it !


https://carbonsales.com/Vacuum-Connection-Suction-Cup-1-4-MPT.html

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/pages/cm/vacuumbagging_valves/vbvacvalve2.php

 

[swapmeet]

Ok I'm working with a local supplier on this stuff.

Learned an interesting stat, not sure if its true. 1 sq/ft x 1/8" thick of material, wet layup by hand CAN weigh 10lbs.
And vacuum bagging that same layup might save 2-3lbs. Nothing I'm doing will be that thick. Well maybe my tray. So we'll see.

 

[WFO Speedracer]

Ok I'm working with a local supplier on this stuff.

Learned an interesting stat, not sure if its true. 1 sq/ft x 1/8" thick of material, wet layup by hand CAN weigh 10lbs.
And vacuum bagging that same layup might save 2-3lbs. Nothing I'm doing will be that thick. Well maybe my tray. So we'll see.

Very true , but it will no longer be 1/8 thick either, very compact and very strong

 

[smdubs]

Nm

 

[Kawastyler]

Ok I'm working with a local supplier on this stuff.

Learned an interesting stat, not sure if its true. 1 sq/ft x 1/8" thick of material, wet layup by hand CAN weigh 10lbs.
And vacuum bagging that same layup might save 2-3lbs. Nothing I'm doing will be that thick. Well maybe my tray. So we'll see.

This is dependent from fibre you work with. 10 layers 163g/qm and 2layers 800g/qm are the same weight of glass but you need much more resin to lay up the 800g glass. The more resin you press out in vacuum. The 10 layers 163q/qm not the big difference from wetlayup to vacuumbaged.

 

[Kawastyler]

Out of mould.....

 

[swapmeet]

And this is all resin infusion?

Great looking stuff. I wish I better understood what you were trying to explain.

 

[WFO Speedracer]

Ok skippy I will explain it in simple man terms, the heaver weights of cloth require more resin to wet out, the lighter cloth less resin, what you are dealing with is resin retention, the 10 lighter layers of cloth will not retain that much resin, so only so much is squeezed out with the vacuum, the two heavier layers of cloth will retain a large amount of resin and a large amount of resin will be squeezed out with the vacuum, think of it as a thin sponge and a thick sponge, which will retain more water, then you squeeze out the sponge, which one will you get the most resin out of ?

 

[swapmeet]

Skippy???

I didn't start this thread because I know everything. Otherwise... I wouldn't have started the thread, would I?

Unfortunately I don't speak German, or understand his translation even though he's trying. I'd really like to be able to, cause the stuff he's making is basically composite porn.


I digress...


So basically, because i'm using thick CF cloth I stand to gain more from using vacuum bagging than if I was using thin cloth.

 

[WFO Speedracer]

Skippy???

I didn't start this thread because I know everything. Otherwise... I wouldn't have started the thread, would I?

Unfortunately I don't speak German, or understand his translation even though he's trying. I'd really like to be able to, cause the stuff he's making is basically composite porn.


I digress...


So basically, because i'm using thick CF cloth I stand to gain more from using vacuum bagging than if I was using thin cloth.

Yes that is correct, BTW if I knew your real name I wouldn't have to call you skippy lol

 

[swapmeet]

I also go by "Swap" if you don't feel like calling me Swapmeet.
Swap-o has been used on occasion.









Mr. Swapmeet if you're nasty.

 

[WFO Speedracer]

Ok Swappy

 

[rollin5150]

Watch this series of Youtube videos. The guys are making a carbon fiber hood using vacuum and infusing resin. This is a good intro to this stuff.

http://www.youtube.com/user/easycompositestv?feature=watch

 

[Kawastyler]

........Unfortunately I don't speak German, or understand his translation even though he's trying. I'd really like to be able to.....


I digress...


Is my english so bad????

 

[WFO Speedracer]

I understand it just fine but then I already have a good working knowledge of the process.

 

[zimmy]

Watch this series of Youtube videos. The guys are making a carbon fiber hood using vacuum and infusing resin. This is a good intro to this stuff.

http://www.youtube.com/user/easycompositestv?feature=watch

Great tutorial, they also have forum for composite construction, I may be over there snooping around in the next few days!

 

[swapmeet]

Is my english so bad????

No, its not horrible. But this is a fairly technical process, and you're doing resin infusion which I view as a higher degree of difficulty and an additional step.
But since i'm very new to this process even perfectly good English confuses me.

I appreciate your posts.

 

[swapmeet]

Just watched those videos. Infusion doesn't look that tough, but I think i'll stick with wet lay up and bag it to pull excess resin out.

 

[tom21]

bagging and infusion are basically the same process as far as the setup. bagging you wet layup and then install the peelply, bleeder and bag with vac attachment while your part is slowly starting to cure. this is a problem if you are slow laying up and or you screw up while taping the bag or cant get a perfect vac. this can ruin the part.

with infusion you lay all the materials in dry, vac your bag down and have a spiral tubing to pull resin attached to one port and a feed line or lines to get the resin to on another port. the pump is attached to the spiral side which is usually around the perimeter or opposite end of the part while the pot of resin will go on the feed side which usually feeds the middle or is opposite of the spiral. this is key- the layout is important as if you set the suction next to the resin it will feed right to it and never wet out the part. so having a well designed layout is critical so the resin is pulled across and completely thru the part before it can exit. I wont go into detail but just think of a rideplate. pump pulling on one side and resin in on the other. the spiral tubing would extend the lenghth of the side to allow even distribution.

at any rate- you have alllllllll the time in the world to set up and get a perfect vacuum before you mix the resin.

for a beginner the toughest part will be taping the bag and not having a leak. there is tons of important things to share about all the other things to do but if this one thing is not done perfect you just pooched it.

I think just the opposite of WFO and think that a nice flat surface like a tray will be easier to work in due to it being more open and also all flat surfaces. trying to do the insides is difficult to do wet layup much less try to keep it clean and then tape it and position a bag and tape that down without dragging it across something and getting resin on it etc.

dude just get some glass or formica and bag a small square to it first and work out what you are doing before you attempt anything else.

 

[tom21]

this is a pretty good vid

http://youtu.be/x42LwtuU5fQ

edit- sorry rollin posted a very good tutorial earlier. note how he had all those pleats and whether it was planned or not he also had a leak. its not always that easy to find and fix those. and they can develop at any time too. not usually but it is possible.

all this just to reinforce? hardly seems worth it. now if you are looking forward and planning to do a complete hood or ski or something then well worth it.