WATER leaking in!

[Chris V]

So i understand that keeping a dry hull interior on a freestyle ski is nearly impossible.

but what are some tricks you have come up trying to keep water from draining in from between the bottom bracket and breather tubes??

with all the modifications these days i can't believe someone hasn't designed something better than a rubber hose through a hole!

 

[iangdesign]

Not much you can do...just get dual bilges and keep it as dry as possible in there.

 

[Chris V]

thanks i was debating a scupper but dual bigles may work better and are more fail safe. installing scupper is not a fun easy task

 

[FlightPlanDan]

thanks i was debating a scupper but dual bigles may work better and are more fail safe. installing scupper is not a fun easy task

Scuppers suck.
And, unless you are in freestyle competition, you don't need one. They all leak. All of them.
The average recreational rider can tool around, watching the bilge outlet until it stops.
Competition riders need to empty fast and perform another trick.
It's one of those things that the pros have..."so I must need it"!. lol.
Plus, it's a PIA at the launch spot. Gotta use a scissor stand so your hull doesn't fill up while you're taking a break.....
BS IMO.
Be real. Don't be a herd animal.

 

[Chris V]

thank you FLIGHTPLANDAN for the awesome legitimate info. I'm sick of all these unrealistic follow the leader parts.

 

[Quinc]

Or use the fraction of the cost home Depot scupper and get the best of both worlds.

 

[FlightPlanDan]

To be clear:
I am fully supportive of aux-electric bilging systems. The more the merrier. Especially for surf and tricksters.
I am also a supporter of the stock bilging system even though it's not visible when working. Electrical issue? Broken wire? It works as long as the pump is turning.
Many give it up in the name of dual cooling. Using the thru-hull port for the extra cooling line. This too is BS until you get into the 900 to 1200 cc range of motors.
A simple "true Y" fitting can supply both sides of the exhaust manifold from within the engine compartment without giving up the stock bilge. (Thanks to Augustof Fred for that info) BTW: He runs 865+ x-scream motors this way. Which is why I run my modest 737 this way.
Don't be a herd animal.
Do what you need for how you ride.

 

[orangefinger]

Depending on what type of ski you run u can combine one way valve with a scupper....I built a square like that once and it was the best solution I ever found, ( the ski could actually float in the water for extended time ) multiple " bigles " are a helpful solution, as well as examining your hood venting and draining system...

Depending on what type of tricks and hull you are riding you can avoid quite a bit of water intrusion and guarantee fast draining without the fear of sinking the ski.

 

[bird]

I run a Versi Plug R in my SXR, works great. I removed my electric Bilge because I only saw it pump water once for more than a few seconds during last season.

The versi ball seems like it's stuck when you come back to shore, but the hull is always empty so it must be working with the stock bilge.

I run a Dual RRP breather bracket with my pole. Did you use any marine silicone when you installed the bracket and tubes? I have dove in and subbed without any water ingestion issues over and over again in Lake Michigan surf.

Blocking off the front breather on the SXR hood was the best fix for my water issues.

 

[Vumad]

thank you FLIGHTPLANDAN for the awesome legitimate info. I'm sick of all these unrealistic follow the leader parts.

And he only mentioned the lack of need and the slow leak upright. The bigger concern, especially in the surf, is the air leak. Air in thd engine compartment provides a lot of bouyancy and protects the motor from water intrusion. Scuppers, versiplugs, etc are air vents. When the ski gets rolled, these water out devices become air out devices. Skis sink faster.

Lots of people think about keeping water out while completely forgetting to keep air in. Yes, sealing the top is important to keeping water out, but making sure the air stays in when a ski is rolled and gets stuck up-side-down keeping the air in effectively keep the water out. You cant sink and upside down bucket full of air, but you can breathe out of it. Same concept with your ski.

 

[Vumad]

I know this is a water out thread, but on the topic of sinking, its a natural reaction to right a sinking ski. However, if the ski is swamped, cant be started and the bilge has failed (no water out), it can actually be a better idea to flip the ski upside down. While this would go against your natural instinct, the top of the ski is loaded with air leaks. Once the ski is swamped enough to continuously take water, air will continuously leak out. Accepting the inevitable can actually prevent it. The bottom of the ski is completely sealed. Water stays out so air will stay in. A ski with foam may float, but it may not float enough to survive the waves and the undertow. Keeping the ski flipped and thus air in may be the best course until help arrives. Attach the tow rope and conserve air. Not universally applicable, but a tool in the tool box. This does not work the same with a scupper.

To relate this to an experience most of us have, think about how much more water a ski take on while its on its side. A ski can flip, then be righted with almost no intrusion, especially so if breather hoses are sealed and go the the bottom of the hull. Those breather hoses don't go to the bottom just to keep water away from the carb.

 

[Chris V]

Did you use any marine silicone when you installed the bracket and tubes?

yes i used 5200 when installing the bracket and all hardware. i also run a rrp dual breather, however my excess water intrusion is with the 2.5 x 2 diameter holes drilled with the flexible grey hoses pushed through. i can shine a flashlight and see daylight between the seams. so i know water is entering just as easy. Such a poor design in my opinion!!! can't believe someone hasn't recreated the oem style design with aftermarket brackets. i will modify something and post it before the summer season.

 

[Kny21]

5200 is overkill for your above water hardware. You want crap to come apart and clean up easy when the time comes. Silicone is a what you need.

 

[aero92x]

Silicone on the tubes 5200 on a bilge bracket if you are planing in gluing it to the hull

 

[eastcoastjumper]

@Chris V are you on facebook? Maybe we can squeeze ya in our LongIsland Riding group

 

[Quinc]

Many give it up in the name of dual cooling. Using the thru-hull port for the extra cooling line. This too is BS until you get into the 900 to 1200 cc range of motors.
A simple "true Y" fitting can supply both sides of the exhaust manifold from within the engine compartment without giving up the stock bilge. (Thanks to Augustof Fred for that info) BTW: He runs 865+ x-scream motors this way. Which is why I run my modest 737 this way.
Don't be a herd animal.
Do what you need for how you ride.

I run the dual cooling as easy insurance. Had the water fitting on my pump break once of all places.

 

[Roseand]

I run the dual cooling as easy insurance. Had the water fitting on my pump break once of all places.

I agree with quinc. It's cheap insurance. Can always restrict to get everything up to temp. Even if it's restricted and a line clogs, some flow is better than none.

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