Blaster WaveBlaster 2 1100 Conversion

Does anyone know of a good write up for dropping a Yamaha 1100 motor in the Wave Blaster 2? I searched and can't find what is involved with the exhaust routing and modifications needed to make that work. I got the motor mounting down I think. Planning on using the RAD Dudes blaster conversion plates.

Thanks
 
I don't care about speed. This is for surf riding and I prefer the bigger hull. Just want more acceleration.

Also, I picked up a 95 Waveraider 1100 with a really clean motor. Compression is 120 across all (3) cylinders. It runs great but I am tempted to replace the crank seals while the engine is out. I know the engine has never been disassembled because all bolts still have the factory paint. I don't have a good feel for how long OEM crank seals last. Any opinions or thought?
 
^^^^ Land flat on a B2 and it is Harsh! A lot of people don't like the B2 in the surf because the nose tends to plow the wave, however if you work the throttle a little bit as well as your body position they really work well in the surf.
 
add the 1997 b2 trim system and adjust the nozzle a few degrees up and the nose problem is gone, add the shock steering system and flat landing pain and sore wrists and sore elbows is gone. There is a guy on flee bay that has plenty of them for the raider and all you have to do is grind or machine the small block to clear.
 
I have a Waveblaster 2 with a bone stock 1200 out of a GP1200. 13/19 Skat Trak prop and my boat hits 55mph gps. I could probably bump compression, add flame arrestors, and go to a 15/21 prop and turn 58mph. But 55mph on a B2 is ripping. So people that say the hull wont go much faster than stock are wrong. 55mph is almost a 10mph improvement over stock. And try to keep with me through bouys.
 

Johnny Africa

Site Supporter
Location
Seminole 33772
I don't care about speed. This is for surf riding and I prefer the bigger hull. Just want more acceleration.

Also, I picked up a 95 Waveraider 1100 with a really clean motor. Compression is 120 across all (3) cylinders. It runs great but I am tempted to replace the crank seals while the engine is out. I know the engine has never been disassembled because all bolts still have the factory paint. I don't have a good feel for how long OEM crank seals last. Any opinions or thought?
Pull the Carbs & exhaust...use a temp freeze plugs to block openings...you'll need to make an adaptor for spark plug hole....take something like a Blood pressure ball & pump 5-6' of air into engine. If it holds that pressure your Crank seals are good....good luck. I am doing 1200 into a B1.
 
Does anyone know if I need to run dual cooling with the stock Yamaha 1100? The pump has a 3/8" line but the engine from the Raider has 1/2". Does the 3/8" line provide enough cooling?
 
Does anyone know what the jetting should be for the Yamaha 1100? I ride at sea level.

I currently have aftermarket flame arrestors and stock jetting and needle and seat.
Highs:
107.5 (1 and 3) 95 (2)
Lows:
75
Needle and seat: 1.2

Just want to verify if I need to make any changes.
 
Location
miami
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Just finished this conversion two weeks ago only rode it twice. and it is a blast. Here is a picture of the hull and the conversion plate that I made. The exhaust was not that difficult I only use one water box from the raider and the out let hose. I also used the dual exit that the raider came with. Its a little load.
 
That ski looks great blitz. I just finished mine up besides hooking the bilge pump up. Turned out better than I expected. Will ride it this Saturday and see how it handles. I still only have the stock impeller though. I know it is not steep enough but will be okay just for getting it out. Will have to buy a new one this winter. Anyone have a recommendation on an impeller?

I also added the trim system from the Raider donor but modified it to work as a brake lever for only trim up since that is all i plan on using it for. Ordered a cable for Terrycable and it worked perfect. Only needed a cable from the handlebar lever to the original raider trim mechanism under the hood. Turned out good.

Also used both waveraider waterboxes to keep it quiet. I know the right waterbox is not needed but wanted to keep it as close to stock sounding as possible. The right waterbox fit in the original box holder straps and I just foamed the other in place. I foamed it so I could easily cut it loose if i needed to. Used the Extreme Throttle 3" rear thru-hull and it worked awesome. Took some planning to get the outlet to match up close to the right waterbox but that was not bad.
 

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Got to ride it today and it was great even with going easy for break in. Handles very well even with the added weight. Had the stock impeller on it and it actually was not bad. Is it possible to get the oem impeller re-pitched or is it better to get a new one?

The engine does shake or vibrate at idle in the water only. Once I give it gas, it is buttery smooth. Is that normal? I know it's going to vibrate some but I can feel it when idling around. No vibration or shake on the trailer.
 
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GReenANt

GReenAnt
Location
Indianapolis
I know this is an older thread but did you do anything to keep the gas tank and motor from rubbing. I set mine up to use the stock midshaft and I didn't have any clearance between the ebox and fuel tank. I'm planning to relocate the motor about 2 inches back with a raider 1100 midshaft. And then use the original fuel tank again. Btw an hx tank works pretty decent.
 
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