Blaster Waveblaster 2 - Listen to engine and what to look for?

So over the weekend I will be starting the ski up and try and look/listen for some hints as to whether it’s sounding ok or not.

First Q:


Now I know they are (from research) quite noisy, especially with the seat off and open - But what are the main things that should tell me whether it’s ok, not ok or turn it off immediately?

I’ll take a video and post here for all to see!

Second Q

If I choose to inspect - What should I look for, common problems and what do I need to do first should I dog a bit deeper and want to open up the engine and drive assembly?

What tends to stay ok, wear fast or cause problems? (couplers/crank/big/small-end/conrods/reeds/wear ring/impeller etc)

The ski has low hours but I don’t know how it’s been taken care of, flushed etc...


PS - This is part of my main thread where I am busy attempting to get my ski in mint condition, link:


Some pics of the engine I’ll be listening to and maybe opening up (And just some of the engine bay):

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Big Kahuna

Administrator
Location
Tuscaloosa, AL
If the rest of the ski looks like these pictures. Clean it up, slap some wax on the top deck and just go ride it!!!!!!!! That looks just about brand new. Ours did not look nearly that clean.
 
agreed 120% leave it stock and go with it. if its sat for awhile dump 2 stroke oil down the carbs and into the motor. run the motor with NO plugs in it. cover spark plug holes with a rag so you dont make a mess. this will lube it up.

you will have to rebuild the carbs if it sat for a really long time.
 
WB2's are really solid skis. The weak point on all the old Yami skis is the wear-ring, check for bulges and cracks from galvanic corrosion. Where in RSA are you?
 
WB2's are really solid skis. The weak point on all the old Yami skis is the wear-ring, check for bulges and cracks from galvanic corrosion. Where in RSA are you?

Good advice - To be clear, the wear ring sits on the inside of the pump housing which the impeller is housed in? Looked at the parts fiche and looks like the wear ring and pump housing is one part?

So the impeller needs a certain clearance between tje blades and the housing - And that lining of the housing can develop corrosion causing bulges to touch the impeller OR it can wear out and there will be too much space between the two?

Is it something you can refurb just because parts are so hard to come by?


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agreed 120% leave it stock and go with it. if its sat for awhile dump 2 stroke oil down the carbs and into the motor. run the motor with NO plugs in it. cover spark plug holes with a rag so you dont make a mess. this will lube it up.

you will have to rebuild the carbs if it sat for a really long time.

I’ll definitely do this.

I started the motor and it sounded rough - Not sure how it’s supposed to sound out of the water with everything off though...

Ok so I dump 2t oil straight into carbs and then turn the engine with the starter?

And then connect the fuel and let it run the oil out? I’ll have to clean those carbs out though after all that 2t oil?


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Good advice - To be clear, the wear ring sits on the inside of the pump housing which the impeller is housed in? Looked at the parts fiche and looks like the wear ring and pump housing is one part?

So the impeller needs a certain clearance between tje blades and the housing - And that lining of the housing can develop corrosion causing bulges to touch the impeller OR it can wear out and there will be too much space between the two?

Is it something you can refurb just because parts are so hard to come by?


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Yes, on a Yamaha it is stainless steel piece inside of aluminuim housing, it can be machined out and replaced.
Bulges can touch impeller, wearing it done and increasing the clearance which causes cavitation and loss of speed. The maximum gap between impeller and wear-ring is 0,6mm. When cranking what might sound like a rattly engine could be the impeller dragging on the bumps.
 
Oh and I’m from South Africa - Moved from Cape Town to Port Elizabeth so the waters are perfect for a ski now, nice and warm!


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Yes, on a Yamaha it is stainless steel piece inside of aluminuim housing, it can be machined out and replaced.
Bulges can touch impeller, wearing it done and increasing the clearance which causes cavitation and loss of speed. The maximum gap between impeller and wear-ring is 0,6mm. When cranking what might sound like a rattly engine could be the impeller dragging on the bumps.

Oh so is it like press fitted which means removing isn’t possible unless you machine it out?

And the wear ring you can order individually?

Will check the impeller clearance - Would I be able to check with a torch through the back?

Thanks!!


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Torch will only show lumps, you need to remove and measure with a feeler gauge.
Has to be machined out. I can get you plastic one that you can push in after machining.
 
I grew up in PE and built a ported engine for someone's WB1 there last year. I've been in Jhb nearly 8yrs.
You ride Kings Beach? Bluewater Bay?

Leke man!

I ride my pencil duck in Bluewater Bay - Haven’t had the ski in the water yet.

Kings beach I’m looking at riding only with my duck, the ski would only be ridden in BWB, some nice swell there.

So you’re in the game - Might need to call on your wisdom after I do an inspection if you wouldn’t mind?

I also grew up in PE, studies in Stellies, lived in JHB till 2017, then Cape Town and finally back to PE and our sweet waters!

So I took the ski to to a certain boat dealer here in PE and long story short, they listened to it crank for 2 seconds, talked me scared, said the motor is done and I would need to spend north of R35k. And then conveniently proceeded to try and sell me a tired R48k WB2 and trade my ski in as “parts”. They did the same with a friend of mine and ski just needed a carb clean.

So I was quite rattled and being a complete noob with ski’s I’m still a bit cautious.

No private guys here that can help me check it and get it 100’s, so trying to figure it out myself.

I paid R15k for it so I have some room - Just not keen on dropping R30k on it though.

Hence all the frantic questions


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That story has Kretz all over it
Good price for a running B2.
Let me know what you need. I have a friend with a B1 that lives in BWB, he will be back in town for a month from this weekend. I have taught him a lot so he can check it out and see what actually needs doing
 
That story has Kretz all over it
Good price for a running B2.
Let me know what you need. I have a friend with a B1 that lives in BWB, he will be back in town for a month from this weekend. I have taught him a lot so he can check it out and see what actually needs doing

Your intuition was spot on about the dealer, haha.

Cool that would be awesome - I’ll definitely tap into you guys, I really need help.

Maybe PM me your and your mates no and I can reach out to you when I check things out.

I was so rattled I listed it on gumtree that same day!

Feeling a bit better now. Until I start her up.

Do you think it’s ok to start up and listen or should I go straight and open up?


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Pull pump out and start. Then you can hear engine alone and feel bearings in pump and check wear-ring.
Will PM you

Great, thanks!

Can the pump come out from the rear of the ski? So I just leave the shaft in place? So entire pump housing comes off?


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Rideplate off. Loosen hoses and steering cable. Remove 4 bolts holding ears of pump. Pump slides out with shaft. It might stick a bit, depending on when last it was serviced.
 
If you have already started it then there is no reason to dump 2-stroke oil down the carbs. That is really just for an engine that has been sitting for a long time.

I wouldn't be too worried about how it "sounds". If you aren't familiar with these they are going to sound noisy and rough. They are noisy engines, not like a nice and quiet automobile so don't worry about it.

The best thing you can do is check the engine compression with an good compression tester and that will tell you the relative health of the engine.

In all honesty I think you are worrying too much about this ski. From your pictures that ski is pretty much spotless inside and out. It has been well taken care of and/or has really low hours and should not be much of a concern as these Yamaha's are very reliable.

If that ski was in my driveway I would first check compression then rebuild the carbs with Genuine Mikuni parts, install a new OEM fuel filter and fresh gas and two new NGK plugs and go ride it.
 
Ok so pulled the external pump out from the back in preparation for running the engine a bit tomorrow.

First but least:
The one bolt in the picture below was so tight that the head of the bolt stripped in the socket - So I’ll have to drill it out and order a new one - O hope it’s something thats available still.

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Second: The impeller is touching and getting stuck on the Impeller housing.

Now it could be either the impeller or the housing that has warped, or both? Obviously can’t separate the external pump because of the one bolt to investigate bearings and to get impeller out.

What are my options guys?

Also how do you get the impeller loose - Turn it at the wrench location on the impeller?

Very bummer about the impeller touching the housing - Can one hone the housing on the inside to create clearance?

How would I know which is out? Impeller or housing?


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Need some of those shims between housing and body (Something you can order?) and I see there was a pipe missing and not connected to the cooling visibility spout at the back, looks like it was disconnected? Do people do that?

So there is a spout that’s part of the casing by the external pump that does not have a hose - And the spout at the back of the ski that goes through to the deck and shoot up, that’s also disconnected.

Any thoughts?


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