Blaster Waveblaster 2 - Listen to engine and what to look for?

[Big Kahuna]

The impeller is not warped, it was mentioned in this thread or one of your others. The stainless liner and alum housing will suffer from galvonic corrosion. This will cause the stainless liner to "Swell". If it is not bad you can take a grinder to it and clearance it. I have had to do this. At some point you will have to replace it. As far as removing the prop, you will need the spline tool to hold onto the end of the drive shaft. and a wrench on the hex portion of the prop. The prop threads are opposide or reverse threaded. So, if the you will either turn the spline tool counter clockwise holding the prop in place with a wrench, or turn the prop clockwise if the spline tool is in a vice....... I use a long cheater bar for removing props.

 

[mikidymac]

To answer your other question...
Yes you can still buy that bolt and if you heat the housing where the threads are with a propane torch you should be able to use vise-grips on the bolt to get it out. It;'s pretty common for them to break since they are so long.

You shouldn't need to add any shims to the pump just reuse any that are there in the same location.

For the visibility sprayer, yes most people remove them because they are a pain the ithe ass and will spray you in the wind. They are really stupid and just leave the connection hose off like it is and don't think about it again. It was a stupid idea by Yamaha so boats could see you better. But, if you can't see a big white jetski how are you going to see a little stream of water.

 

[Big Kahuna]

To answer your other question...
Yes you can still buy that bolt and if you heat the housing where the threads are with a propane torch you should be able to use vise-grips on the bolt to get it out. It;'s pretty common for them to break since they are so long.

You shouldn't need to add any shims to the pump just reuse any that are there in the same location.

For the visibility sprayer, yes most people remove them because they are a pain the ithe ass and will spray you in the wind. They are really stupid and just leave the connection hose off like it is and don't think about it again. It was a stupid idea by Yamaha so boats could see you better. But, if you can't see a big white jetski how are you going to see a little stream of water.

Actually, you do see the water stream. The human eye detects erratic movement pretty well, That is what it is. It is a great idea and you can deleted it in less than 5 minutes with a zip tie or plug.

 

[Benn]

The impeller is not warped, it was mentioned in this thread or one of your others. The stainless liner and alum housing will suffer from galvonic corrosion. This will cause the stainless liner to "Swell". If it is not bad you can take a grinder to it and clearance it. I have had to do this. At some point you will have to replace it. As far as removing the prop, you will need the spline tool to hold onto the end of the drive shaft. and a wrench on the hex portion of the prop. The prop threads are opposide or reverse threaded. So, if the you will either turn the spline tool counter clockwise holding the prop in place with a wrench, or turn the prop clockwise if the spline tool is in a vice....... I use a long cheater bar for removing props.

Ok great!

So how would I check “roundness” to know where to hone it a bit? Would I need to use the impeller as a guide?

IF this doesn’t work, what are my options? Order a whole new impeller housing?

I guess I was actually asking whether
the bolts a readily available or unique only to the WB760 and would need to be ordered (from the States in my case).

I don’t have a spline tool though - Any suggestions?


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[Benn]

For the visibility sprayer, yes most people remove them because they are a pain the ithe ass and will spray you in the wind. They are really stupid and just leave the connection hose off like it is and don't think about it again. It was a stupid idea by Yamaha so boats could see you better. But, if you can't see a big white jetski how are you going to see a little stream of water.

To be clear, there is no connection hose - Simply a spout that is part of the nozzle and then a plastic connector below the deck.

That’s fine to leave like that instead of a disconnected pipe rather?

Thanks for your help - Will post pic of what I manage to accomplish with impeller situation and video of engine running when I start it.

Starting it today. Hold thumbs!


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[Big Kahuna]

Ok great!

So how would I check “roundness” to know where to hone it a bit? Would I need to use the impeller as a guide? Where ever the blades make contact.

IF this doesn’t work, what are my options? Order a whole new impeller housing? Yes, or have it resleeved.

I guess I was actually asking whether
the bolts a readily available or unique only to the WB760 and would need to be ordered (from the States in my case). Take one of the bolts to a parts house. Its an M6x???mm

I don’t have a spline tool though - Any suggestions? You will have to order one. You have to have it.


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See responses in red.

 

[Benn]

So some feedback on the action plan for the external pump:

I’m sending the casings (still held together by that one bolt) to an engineering shop -

1. They’ll remove that one bolt
2. Bead blast the impeller and duct housing exterior
3. Light hone the high spots and check 0.6mm gap between sleeve and impeller (Is that the correct gap?)
4. Polish the sleeve
5. Polish the impeller

After talking to some people I was advised not to paint the housings and to retain the aluminum as is after the bead blast. Alum just traps moisture under coating...

Shaft will be ice blasted and polished.

I don’t know the state of the bearings yet but it has almost no non-rotational lateral movement n which means they should still be ok. Will see when it’s apart.

Everyone happy that I keep the aluminum uncoated?

Now I just need that long bolt - Will have to look around to see if anyone has it. Specialist bolt shop?

Oh and rideplate is getting bead blasted and powdercoated or anodized.

Will have to get shims made up to align shaft into short shaft - Not sure yet how to ensure alignment when refitting.

The entire external pump assembly will look brand new again.

Next up what happened wit the engine...



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[Benn]

Oh and this is what the external pump looked like - funny how this looked really bad on the outside but the rest of the ski is in really good nic...

Will post AFTER photos when I get it back from its makeover.

Q:

How do I stop the exhaust staining it, or is that from running it on land and not cleaning afterwards?


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[keith t]

0.6mm is max clearance, you should aim for tighter if possible

 

[Benn]

Now the good stuff, I was most afraid of what the engine was going to say to me:


Pre-flight checks: I replaced both plugs, checked spark, checked that the oil hose has oil in it and even just went with the existing fuel (I know it would have been better to run new fuel but I thought I’d try that fuel).

Connected the water, pulled the choke out and pressed the starter button.

Started almost instantaneously!

Ringdingggdingsingriiiingsingding

Crisp, idles buttery smooth and revs up on a dime.

Choke was back in and it didn’t miss a beat.

Mechanic that was with me said it sounded like it was brand new - We let it warm up and the revved it, man it screams and is actually not that “bad noisy” people sometimes describe them. Sounds like a banshee motor.

We then switched it off, let it cool down and checked compression: About 107 psi on both, negligible variance between them, maybe 4psi.

And it sounds like it looks, literally brand new.

We then drained the fuel tank, removed it and the 2t tank and then cleaned both.

From the pictures earlier you can see that the tank is still white, not even slightest bit of discoloring.

All is good for now!

Unfortunately forgot to take a vid amidst all the excitement, will upload when I run it again!

Now that I am happy with the engine I need to see if I can get some OEM parts for the ski.


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[Benn]

0.6mm is max clearance, you should aim for tighter if possible

Ok - So only way I can achieve tighter is to take as little off the high spots as possible?

Low’s I can’t do anything about...

Right?

That means here and there the clearance will be tighter at high spots than low spots. Is that ok?

Or is it more important to have uniform clearance even if it’s on the big side?


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[keith t]

If you have high spots on wear ring, you are wasting your time with that wear ring, the high spots are caused by corrosion between the aluminium housing and the stainless ring, best way is to have another ring fixed in place or a new ring. WSm do one with a replaceable plastic liner

 

[Benn]

If you have high spots on wear ring, you are wasting your time with that wear ring, the high spots are caused by corrosion between the aluminium housing and the stainless ring, best way is to have another ring fixed in place or a new ring. WSm do one with a replaceable plastic liner

So what are my options if I wanted to keep my housing?

Can you fit a new SS ring? How would that be done?
If you wanted to fit the Nylon aftermarket ring?

So WSM is the manufacturer of the WSM housing and wear ring?

I suppose you would have to machine the steel ring out, to a certain spec, and then insert a new one? You’d have to have an SS ring machined and press it in? What are the specs for that?

How thick is the ring so you’d know how much to machine out?


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[Benn]

Also - Should I hone the high spots, would it not take quite a while before it would swell enough to cause a problem?

It’s taken 25 years to get to that point?

Does anyone have the exact clearance it should be between impeller?


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[Carrera911]

You’re much better off getting a wsm aftermarket wear ring with replaceable inserts for less than $200. No way you can find a machine shop to refurb your current one for less than that.

I think it was said earlier about .6mm is the factory max tolerance. When new you can hardly fit a piece of paper between them. While it’s out you can sand down any small flaws in the prop or just get another one. That one probably isn’t worth getting refinished, especially if you don’t have someone over there to do it. That thing has seen a lot of salt and most likely has never had the pump rebuilt. You should definitely consider rebuilding it with new seals and bearings while it’s out.

Nothing wrong with coating the aluminum. Yes moisture can be trapped behind paint or powder coat but you really shouldn’t have that problem if it’s prepped properly. Also I doubt you’ll be leaving it in salt or not washing it properly after all this work.


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[slutty22]

would love to own a blaster

 

[Benn]

You’re much better off getting a wsm aftermarket wear ring with replaceable inserts for less than $200. No way you can find a machine shop to refurb your current one for less than that.

I think it was said earlier about .6mm is the factory max tolerance. When new you can hardly fit a piece of paper between them. While it’s out you can sand down any small flaws in the prop or just get another one. That one probably isn’t worth getting refinished, especially if you don’t have someone over there to do it. That thing has seen a lot of salt and most likely has never had the pump rebuilt. You should definitely consider rebuilding it with new seals and bearings while it’s out.

Nothing wrong with coating the aluminum. Yes moisture can be trapped behind paint or powder coat but you really shouldn’t have that problem if it’s prepped properly. Also I doubt you’ll be leaving it in salt or not washing it properly after all this work.


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Wow that’s a tight clearance, piece of paper...

Thing is I can get an ENG shop to machine the SS out and just buy the replaceable ring right? There’s a guy here that might have a ring for me.

Will replace the prop, but where can I find a factory spec prop?

What would you coat the alu with? It would need to be baked and then coated. Would it be fine uncoated?

Are the seals and bearings available at a bearing shop or would they be so specific that I’ll need to order a kit?

Any online shop you would recommend for the above impeller housing, impeller?

Yup I’ll be taking good care of it so would not be standing with saltwater on it.


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[Benn]

If you can recommend a cheap online place for that WSM housing it might work out cheaper.


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[Carrera911]

Well I figure any shop around here would want at least $100 to put that in a lathe and turn it out. It’ll have to be a higher end lathe to have a chuck large enough to fit that so it’ll have to be a decently well equipped shop which probably won’t be cheap. And then it still needs to be bead blasted and possibly painted. It doesn’t have to be painted but I would at least clean up the reduction nozzle and paint that since that’s really all you can see in the ski. But by the time you do all that and buy the plastic sleeve, you’re basically at the cost of buying a new one with a sleeve. Not sure where to best source parts over there, JetManiac sells them on here and I’m sure he can ship it over there.

I like to powder coat my parts, which does require baking it. Once again, most shops will charge an arm and a leg to do just a handful of parts, with it getting cheaper per part the more you bring. Just spray painting it should hold up reasonably well, especially after bead blasting.

Bearings and seals are almost all off the shelf parts, whether it’s a yamaha, Toyota or ferrari, the biggest difference is just how much they charge you. You can source them as a universal part but if you’re buying just one set, you’re probably best off getting them from JetManiac and shipping it with everything else. Message him on here @JetManiac to place an order. He can also hook you up with clean used miscellaneous parts for cheap, like the pump bolts.


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[Benn]

Well I figure any shop around here would want at least $100 to put that in a lathe and turn it out. It’ll have to be a higher end lathe to have a chuck large enough to fit that so it’ll have to be a decently well equipped shop which probably won’t be cheap. And then it still needs to be bead blasted and possibly painted. It doesn’t have to be painted but I would at least clean up the reduction nozzle and paint that since that’s really all you can see in the ski. But by the time you do all that and buy the plastic sleeve, you’re basically at the cost of buying a new one with a sleeve. Not sure where to best source parts over there, JetManiac sells them on here and I’m sure he can ship it over there.

I like to powder coat my parts, which does require baking it. Once again, most shops will charge an arm and a leg to do just a handful of parts, with it getting cheaper per part the more you bring. Just spray painting it should hold up reasonably well, especially after bead blasting.

Bearings and seals are almost all off the shelf parts, whether it’s a yamaha, Toyota or ferrari, the biggest difference is just how much they charge you. You can source them as a universal part but if you’re buying just one set, you’re probably best off getting them from JetManiac and shipping it with everything else. Message him on here @JetManiac to place an order. He can also hook you up with clean used miscellaneous parts for cheap, like the pump bolts.


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Good advice, I think you’re right - Let me check and see his prices. Eng work here isn’t too expensive but I’ll know how it compares when I hear back from him.

The reduction nozzle is still fine, just needs to be cleaner luckily.

Parts won’t be available here anyway, I’d have to import.

Will update when I decide and get the info on cost.

Any online place for the housing?




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