loictahiti
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- Location
- Tahiti, french polynesia
Crazy man , crazy built , love it
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Subscribed for sure
WB1 With Turbocharged Spark Engine
- Thread starter SWLAmarshrunner
- Start date
- Location
- winter haven florida
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Yep, Sport GP legal. The rule is 900cc with forced induction. I'm unsure if I will have it ready to race for April 21 in Baytown but I would think by May for sure. I could probably have it together but still alot to do to hone in on tune and rideablility once on the water.
- Location
- Fort Worth, TX
So once you've got it all sorted out you're gonna transfer it to a carbon fiber hull right?? Just kidding $$$$
...but seriously tho I know you've thought about it
...but seriously tho I know you've thought about it
- Location
- floatn around
So what does that Spark motor make power wise in stock form?
What kind of horsepower are you projecting to make with this monster?
What kind of horsepower are you projecting to make with this monster?
A naturally aspirated spark engine makes 90hp factory - 110hp reflashed
A turbo canam maverick has the same exact engine but uses 10.5:1 pistons instead of 11:1 pistons that are in the spark motor and the maverick makes 172hp at flywheel stock - 12ish psi.
A turbo spark engine is 250hp capable at 20psi. I have no clue what I would be comfortable running power wise until I test... Will probably aim to end up in the 150-180 range for initial testing and go from there.
- Location
- floatn around
That is awesome.
- Location
- floatn around
I see you have cooling everywhere. What's the plan to keep all this cool? How is that setup on the rear exhaust with all that cooling work with the manifold? Can you snap some pics of all that hooked up before you put the lid on it?
What a masterpiece!
What a masterpiece!
Horsepower is not relevant to PSI. Saying "250hp @ 20psi" is a meaningless silly statement. What at turbo can flow at X psi is more significant. Turbo A can make 250hp peak at 20psi, turbo B can make 250hp at 12 psi.
Basically there is 2 - 1/2" cooling lines coming from pump. One goes to the engine, one goes to the intercooler and then into exhaust manifold. From the exhaust manifold, everything is waterjacketed all the way up to the hump in the exhaust over the driveshaft... Then water is injected into the straight run of pipe going out the rear - mainly to lower sound just a little. There's a 1/4" gap around all the turbo piping that water flows through to keep piping cool enough to run in a jetski hull. Same way I've done my turbo RXP-x.
Here's a pic of my turbo rxp-x with the cooling lines hooked up. From exhaust mani it runs into uppipe, out uppipe into waterjacketed turbine housing, out of there into downpipe.
20160206_194605 by Ricky Hinch, on Flickr
Last edited:
"meaningless silly statement"??
Alot of people on here don't know turbo lingo so sorry for breaking it down to where joe blow can understand a general statement and I wasn't even comparing turbos! I was simply answering a question on what kind of HP the engine CAN make - I was not asked what peak HP the turbo can make. 250 @ 20psi is referring to a turbo sized similar or a hair bigger than a stock maverick turbo... not something like a 102mm
- Location
- floatn around
So why go into a manifold and 3 injectors into the straight pipe as opposed to one injector and no manifold? Is it because one injector won't give you the flow rate through the rest of the system and is too restrictive?
Also why arrange the injectors in this fashion. Essentially three in the same spot as opposed to one after the other maybe a few inches apart?
The reason I ask is because when I put in my triple I may inject water for to make it quieter. So if I pulled a second cooling line off the pump and injected it in the pipe what would be the best setup to be the quietest? Three spread in the same spot or one after the other over a few inches?
Also why arrange the injectors in this fashion. Essentially three in the same spot as opposed to one after the other maybe a few inches apart?
The reason I ask is because when I put in my triple I may inject water for to make it quieter. So if I pulled a second cooling line off the pump and injected it in the pipe what would be the best setup to be the quietest? Three spread in the same spot or one after the other over a few inches?
I went into that water log manifold with 3 fittings coming off the side of it and one fitting inline. The one fitting inline will be a pisser so I can see that I have cooling into the exhaust piping. The 3 injection point placement in the exhaust was mainly because it was easy to get to that spot and I'd rather go in at different angles with less water in each vs one angle with more water.
As far as injecting more water into your triple, if you ran another line direct off the pump, I'd suggest a Tee to run to another pisser. I've heard of people putting an extra water fitting into the waterbox to quiet it down more but if you do, I'd probably put a flow control valve on it so you don't have excess water in the waterbox at idle & low speeds
- Location
- Antioch ca
Nice. You got some serious skill and knowledge.
Ok so the main holdup was 3 other race skis I had to finish building before last weekend and I am done with that..... for the most part. Racing the last couple weekends has re-motivated me to jump back on this. One thing that has been bothering me is the driveline adapter I made..... I do think it would work but it is not the best setup. I am going a few steps back here but if it works how I want, the setup will be MUCH better in the end.
I am modding the crank where it will have a threaded end for the ADA coupler to thread on to.... get rid of the adapter altogether. If you didn't know already, the spark PTO for 14/15 cranks press off. I will have a new piece made to press on in its place and instead of having female splines in the PTO, it will have male threads. After doing some checks, I will still be able to use the stock PTO cover.
So, one more thing.... you know that when you do custom stuff like this, you may brainstorm a bit more after you have "plan A". Well all the pics and explanations in this post WERE plan A until later last night. I may end up doing a couple things different but I am not sure it is possible until I get with my machinist friend. Basically would end up with same setup, would just be an easier path to get there. Anyway, checkout the pics of the old plan A.
Things layed out on the table – spark crank with PTO pressed off, old Yamaha to seadoo adapter inside of ADA HD coupler, Yamaha 701 crank end
20180424_184102 by Ricky Hinch, on Flickr
This is the spark PTO sitting on the end of the crank
20180424_184508 by Ricky Hinch, on Flickr
Spark PTO removed from crank
20180424_184516 by Ricky Hinch, on Flickr
Yamaha 701 crank end that I cut off…. Was experimenting to see if there would be enough meat to bore for the pressed fit – would not have enough wall left when done and also would not be long enough.
20180424_184533 by Ricky Hinch, on Flickr
This is what it should resemble when done. The coupler will be threaded directly onto crankshaft.
20180424_184658 by Ricky Hinch, on Flickr
This spot I am pointing at will be the location of the shoulder that the threads stop on with the custom PTO piece I am having made.
20180424_190317 by Ricky Hinch, on Flickr
The plan is to make the custom PTO piece a bit longer where all threads of the coupler will be filled.
20180424_190507 by Ricky Hinch, on Flickr
This is my old adapter plugged in to the crank – you can see where the old stop for the coupler was compared to where I plan for it to be.
20180424_191203 by Ricky Hinch, on Flickr
I am modding the crank where it will have a threaded end for the ADA coupler to thread on to.... get rid of the adapter altogether. If you didn't know already, the spark PTO for 14/15 cranks press off. I will have a new piece made to press on in its place and instead of having female splines in the PTO, it will have male threads. After doing some checks, I will still be able to use the stock PTO cover.
So, one more thing.... you know that when you do custom stuff like this, you may brainstorm a bit more after you have "plan A". Well all the pics and explanations in this post WERE plan A until later last night. I may end up doing a couple things different but I am not sure it is possible until I get with my machinist friend. Basically would end up with same setup, would just be an easier path to get there. Anyway, checkout the pics of the old plan A.
Things layed out on the table – spark crank with PTO pressed off, old Yamaha to seadoo adapter inside of ADA HD coupler, Yamaha 701 crank end
20180424_184102 by Ricky Hinch, on FlickrThis is the spark PTO sitting on the end of the crank
20180424_184508 by Ricky Hinch, on FlickrSpark PTO removed from crank
20180424_184516 by Ricky Hinch, on FlickrYamaha 701 crank end that I cut off…. Was experimenting to see if there would be enough meat to bore for the pressed fit – would not have enough wall left when done and also would not be long enough.
20180424_184533 by Ricky Hinch, on FlickrThis is what it should resemble when done. The coupler will be threaded directly onto crankshaft.
20180424_184658 by Ricky Hinch, on FlickrThis spot I am pointing at will be the location of the shoulder that the threads stop on with the custom PTO piece I am having made.
20180424_190317 by Ricky Hinch, on FlickrThe plan is to make the custom PTO piece a bit longer where all threads of the coupler will be filled.
20180424_190507 by Ricky Hinch, on FlickrThis is my old adapter plugged in to the crank – you can see where the old stop for the coupler was compared to where I plan for it to be.
20180424_191203 by Ricky Hinch, on FlickrOk guys, this might be a long post because I have a few big changes to update you on and have some new pics and vids also.
Stock Hull Update
I pulled the turbo setup out of this stock hull and have decided to make it a naturally aspirated setup. The more I think about it, the more I want to do a few things differently with the turbo placement, driveline setup and use a aftermarket mod hull for a turbo build which is leaps and bounds better than a stock hull in every aspect. The stock hull was used more as a guinea pig to see what would work and what I'd like to do different. I will finish this ski with the stock 90 tune, see where my rpm is at and then will flash ecu to 110 and then hone in on rpm.
Things left to do on this ski:
Mod exhaust manifold
Build custom waterbox
Install piping/hose from waterbox to thru hull
Install fittings, cooling lines and heat exchanger
Notch hull for intake mani
Order & install Worx throttle & start/stop to work with 7/8 bars
I will likely attach top deck temporarily for initial water test. If all goes good I will then glue the hull back together permanently. I am hoping to have ski ready for initial water test within the next 1-2 weeks. While it won’t be race worthy, I think it will be a fun play ski and am expecting 52-54mph once impeller is right on.
New mod hull
The other big news is that I have bought a very rare aftermarket mod hull that has not been touched since it came out of the mold. Top and bottom weighs 100lbs, pump tunnel is moved back, has a lengthened intake area and a couple other improvements to the bottom deck over a stock b1 hull. I have a 1piece wamilton hood/seat combo on the way to go with this hull and have been told that only weighs 30lbs. This hull will be the one to get the spark turbo but will have a much different turbo setup than what I built for this stock hull. I found a way to minimize turbo piping while having better turbo placement. Also have a few tricks planned for driveline that should be able to handle every bit of power this thing can put out for a holeshot . The mod hull is still in Pennsylvania but I will post some pics I have of it. Btw, when I get this hull in, I will be starting a new thread and only continuing with the stock hull build on this thread. I’m only posting the mod hull in here to give you guys an update on what's coming
Pics of stock hull & mod hull to follow:
[VIDEO]
1 by Ricky Hinch, on Flickr
2 by Ricky Hinch, on Flickr
3 by Ricky Hinch, on Flickr
4 by Ricky Hinch, on Flickr
4a by Ricky Hinch, on Flickr
5 by Ricky Hinch, on Flickr
6 by Ricky Hinch, on Flickr
7 by Ricky Hinch, on Flickr
Mod Hull Pics
1 by Ricky Hinch, on Flickr
2 by Ricky Hinch, on Flickr
3 by Ricky Hinch, on Flickr
4 by Ricky Hinch, on Flickr
5 by Ricky Hinch, on Flickr
Stock Hull Update
I pulled the turbo setup out of this stock hull and have decided to make it a naturally aspirated setup. The more I think about it, the more I want to do a few things differently with the turbo placement, driveline setup and use a aftermarket mod hull for a turbo build which is leaps and bounds better than a stock hull in every aspect. The stock hull was used more as a guinea pig to see what would work and what I'd like to do different. I will finish this ski with the stock 90 tune, see where my rpm is at and then will flash ecu to 110 and then hone in on rpm.
Things left to do on this ski:
Mod exhaust manifold
Build custom waterbox
Install piping/hose from waterbox to thru hull
Install fittings, cooling lines and heat exchanger
Notch hull for intake mani
Order & install Worx throttle & start/stop to work with 7/8 bars
I will likely attach top deck temporarily for initial water test. If all goes good I will then glue the hull back together permanently. I am hoping to have ski ready for initial water test within the next 1-2 weeks. While it won’t be race worthy, I think it will be a fun play ski and am expecting 52-54mph once impeller is right on.
New mod hull
The other big news is that I have bought a very rare aftermarket mod hull that has not been touched since it came out of the mold. Top and bottom weighs 100lbs, pump tunnel is moved back, has a lengthened intake area and a couple other improvements to the bottom deck over a stock b1 hull. I have a 1piece wamilton hood/seat combo on the way to go with this hull and have been told that only weighs 30lbs. This hull will be the one to get the spark turbo but will have a much different turbo setup than what I built for this stock hull. I found a way to minimize turbo piping while having better turbo placement. Also have a few tricks planned for driveline that should be able to handle every bit of power this thing can put out for a holeshot . The mod hull is still in Pennsylvania but I will post some pics I have of it. Btw, when I get this hull in, I will be starting a new thread and only continuing with the stock hull build on this thread. I’m only posting the mod hull in here to give you guys an update on what's coming
Pics of stock hull & mod hull to follow:
[VIDEO]
1 by Ricky Hinch, on Flickr
2 by Ricky Hinch, on Flickr
3 by Ricky Hinch, on Flickr
4 by Ricky Hinch, on Flickr
4a by Ricky Hinch, on Flickr
5 by Ricky Hinch, on Flickr
6 by Ricky Hinch, on Flickr
7 by Ricky Hinch, on FlickrMod Hull Pics
1 by Ricky Hinch, on Flickr
2 by Ricky Hinch, on Flickr
3 by Ricky Hinch, on Flickr
4 by Ricky Hinch, on Flickr
5 by Ricky Hinch, on Flickr
Big Kahuna
Administrator
- Location
- Tuscaloosa, AL
How does the press fit PTO work, seams like it would slip?
That is how the stock spark setup is. Hopefully the existing PTO piece will have enough wall left after threading. I'm more confident in the stock piece being pressed back onto the crank instead of having to machine a new piece... can't tell from the pics but the crank end is tapered ever so slightly. Also thought of pinning it with a hardened steel pin after it is pressed back on. I haven't heard of any turbo sparks having any slip issues though.