Wet Foam?

[SJBrit]

There's no foam in the engine bay so you don't need to worry about that - the motor can stay in.

You can do it either way in the back. I kept the old tray, glassed it back in and then foamed. Stanton foamed, shaped that and then glassed over it, discarding the old tray. Either works. If you're a beginner then it might be easier for you to do it my way since you have an existing shape to repair rather than a new shape to build.

 

[SJBrit]

after i remove all the foam should i glass the holds and the tray back in, them foam? or can i foam the inside, cut it down and glass over it. i was not planning on removing the motor but if i were to glass then refoam i assume i need to refoam from inside of the engine bay

Sorry, just realized what you meant about the engine bay. You can use the bulkhead holes that Yamaha used to foam in the first place - That might be tricky with the motor in - I haven't tried it. But you can also drill a couple of holes in the top of the rail each side and foam from there - that's the easiest way. Once the foam is dry you glass back over the holes and it all gets hidden under the turf.

 

[sdhunter123]

haha ya i was talking about the holes that yamaha used... sorry i should have asked that better. but i feel more confident about it now. thats the way i will do it then. drill say 3 holes on each rail and pour the foam in that way. i have seen where people have used to much foam and it has pushed holds and things out.. i also want to make sure i fill all the gaps.. any suggested amount of foam that should be used.. i really appreciate all the help. this weekend will be quite a learning experience

 

[SJBrit]

haha ya i was talking about the holes that yamaha used... sorry i should have asked that better. but i feel more confident about it now. thats the way i will do it then. drill say 3 holes on each rail and pour the foam in that way. i have seen where people have used to much foam and it has pushed holds and things out.. i also want to make sure i fill all the gaps.. any suggested amount of foam that should be used.. i really appreciate all the help. this weekend will be quite a learning experience

Stock ski is about 3.5 cubic feet of foam. You need to pour in stages to prevent the overfilling you're talking about. A couple of 1" to 1.5" holes either side should do the trick: uses a funnel to pour it in.

 

[sdhunter123]

awsome thanx alot...man i love this site

 

[Proformance1]

You may want to have a look at this thread also. I'm against refoaming, I used styrofoam. The only thing I screwed up was not sealing my pump bolts when reinstaling and I should have used 5200 on the lines insted of 5 min epoxy.


http://www.x-h2o.com/threads/66181

 

[sdhunter123]

WOW!!! Performance you did an awsome job on that build/defoam... im heading back home tonight to get started. If i can do half as good as you did i will be happy. I am still debating on the type of foam to use.. the polystrene with some drains would be best, but the 2part seems easier to use... i think someone said that i can get a whole lot of the polystrene at trctor supply for preety cheap so ill prob do that. and use a lil 2 part arounf the holds... BTW sweet turf!!!

 

[TJLSuperJet]

foam it, shave it ,then install glasswork, no need to pull motor?

You should ask Assjoel about foaming, i bet his ski lost 40lbs in water weight during his refoaming, it made considerable difference

 

[Proformance1]

Thanks bro. Now you know what to do. Two part sucks, use as little as possible. It's just a big sponge, and not the freestyle sponge that can help do back flips either

 

[sdhunter123]

alright so i got all the foam out and now im gonna out it back together. i got some polystyrene at home depot for like $10.. got some drain plugs and gonna get it back together this weekend. i was planning on using 5200 to reseal everything up, but i saw a thread that said to use epoxy resin (with microballoons) for the bond line. then i saw another one that said not to. so what would be the best thing to seal the bond line.. also saw alot of guys saying that i need to reinforce the bondline. do they mean the bondline itself or the inside of the outside of the hull ( behind the holds).

 

[SJBrit]

Yes, reinforce while you are in there. Do not use micro balloons - these are meant to make epoxy sandable for surface finishing. You need to fill the bondline with epoxy resin thickened with cabosil. Then layer over the top with fibergalss - but do that while the filler is still wet to promote good bonding and tons of strength. I just did mine with a 6" strip of 1708 biax along the bondline and then a layer of 1708 biax going over the whole area. It's very strong now.

Resin here: http://www.uscomposites.com/epoxy.html - get the thin epoxy and medium hardner for plenty of working time.

Cabosil here: http://www.uscomposites.com/fillers.html

Biax here: http://www.uscomposites.com/specialty.html

And don't forget one of these: http://www.uscomposites.com/fgrollers.html - 3" is a good compromise between corners and wide areas.

I'd also recommend: http://www.uscomposites.com/cutters.html - 10" Weiss

And pumps: http://www.uscomposites.com/epoxy.html - about 1/3 of the way down the page.

Get the right gear and it's an easy job!

 

[SJBrit]

One other thing: go ahead and so some resealing while you are in there. Pull the stock silicon from the water pipes, clean well, rough up with 60 grit sandpaper (pipe and bulkhead), clean with solvent, and then reseal with fast cure 5200.

 

[sdhunter123]

so i got the bondline taken care of and it came out really well... thanx... im headed out there now to 5200 everthing and start molding the foam.. i noticed that on the other foam threads, right ontop of the pump box, it looks as though there is like resin in a figure 8 kindof design which looks as though it holds some stoppers for the pump bolts. when i pulled out the tray, the resin and stoppers with. should i get some new stoppers and 5200 those in or how important is this

 

[SJBrit]

I wouldn't mess with those inserts if you don't have to. That green glue that Yamaha uses is a PITA to remove, so if it looks like it's sealed OK then leave it alone. If not, then you'll have to get it all off and yes: you can use 5200 to seal it back up. You shouldn't need new inserts.

The "figure 8" pattern is either where the glue dripped between inserts (it leaves a line) or you're talking about the glue they put on top of the pump housing to help attach the top deck. Either way don't worry about it - the stuff on top of the pump housing does very little to help strength - you're better off letting foam flow in there to stick things together.