Super Jet Wet jet kraze wpp exhaust in superjet help

Well holes have been drilled,
Electrical boxes have been moved, smc/fiberglass had been ground away. And a poor defenseless midshaft had been beaten into spec.
Need to get the exhaust welded. Electrical figured out.
And alignment done. And since my couplers are different sizes and materials. I think I'm gonna be stuck using the LAR method.


What am I missing?

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Me either!
Should be nice going from 50ish HP to 95+ HP

Oh, prob a silly question, but cant hurt to make sure.
Being its a straight drop in. I don't have to re-jet the carbs correct? Since I'm using the same exhaust just weled up little different?
 
i have not changed my jets, you might want to tweak with the adjustment screws first. my pilot seems to work great, but as soon as i get a rebuild kit, i am going to swap out the main for a bigger size. I have my adjustment screw out almost a full three turns.

Take note of how far our your high and low screws are (WRITE IT DOWN) and the open your low two full turns and your high three full turns. see how she likes is... It all depends on your prop pitch and all the good stuff too. Better a bit fat than running her lean and blowing her up. the pilot only works from idle to not even a 1/4 throttle. If it wont stay idling (DO THIS ATTATCHED TO YOUR TRAILER WITH THE PUMP IN THE WATER) and is bogging out tighten up your pilot adjustment. But like i said, my pilot i didn't have to make any adjustments to, VERY minor atleast. The main i opened up three full turns and when i was cruising at 1/4 throttle and gunned it, it was bogging out on me... There is a difference between the bogging down when fat and the hesitation it gets when it is lean so pay attention to that... you dont want tolean out a lean engine.
 
Well Finally found a place to weld my exhaust.
Ill save myself 70 bucks if I cut and clean it my self. So I will hopefully be tackeling that today.
Then I gotta find time to drive the thing 40 miles back to the city to have it welded.
 
TADA!!

Sorta,
Part A really. But its a start.
I ran into a problem that I hope the Machine shop can handle. One side of the chamber is 2x thicker then the other.

I will try an even it out. But who knows how well that will go.

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I will attempt a fitting tonight to see if anything needs to be shortend, rotated, ect.
 
Well to revive a probably dead thread.
I got the exhaust welded and mounted. But. The angle is wrong. Its pointing to far towards the gas tank. And is pointing down to much. I should have removed about 3/4 of an inche out of the chamber and marked how I wanted it welded better.
So I don't know if I want to scrap it and save for a real pipe. or throw more money at it.
Suggestions?

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I had to take a 1 inch to nothing pie piece out to get mine to fit in the fx1

It's looking like im about to do the same... that bottom line is if my welding guy can add some of the cut material back into it. If not, im having him cut the top line off. its almost a 2inch to nothing pie cut. Any idea on how this will affect tuning?
 

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Theoretically the slightly shorter length will bump the power up to a slightly higher rpm.

Also theoretically, it shouldn't be much of a difference, you are making less change there than the difference between a "limited" and "mod" B pipe chamber.

I'm doubtful you'll notice a difference, but I would try to keep it as long/close to original dimensions as possible, or at least as practical.
 
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