WFO Speedracer
A lifetime ban is like a lifetime warranty !
- Location
- Alabama
Buy the equipment, that's the only option here
What could cause case sealant failure on almost new PV motor?
- Thread starter JKMike
- Start date
Myself
manic mechanic
- Location
- Twin Lakes AR
I use 320 grit hone stones. I lay the cylinder on it's side, exhaust port down, and angle a small stream of water at the base....it's enough to keep the grit washed out and allow the stones to 'work'. Wash again with a stiff brush and degreaser. Blow dry with compressed air. Wipe down thoroughly with a blue shop towel soaked with fogging oil. I probably do around 50 or so a season exactly like this. Clearances barely change at all.
WFO Speedracer
A lifetime ban is like a lifetime warranty !
- Location
- Alabama
I used to have a guy that bored cylinders with a hone, on your more expensive hones like Sunnen and Ammco they make stones specifically for doing this, I watched him do a set while I waited, it took him maybe 30 minutes per cylinder.
- Location
- Annapolis, Maryland
Yea I watched a couple Youtube videos of guys doing this. Personally that's not how i would go about it but its interesting nonetheless.
I do have a Vintage Ammco hone at work but it needs new stones and a repair to the U-Joint. I played around with the Lisle 15000 this weekend on a seadoo motor i have thats about to get re-sleeved and I was pretty surprised with how easy it was. It was pretty cool how i could immediately see the low spots. My plan right now is to use that bad cylinder to sort of dress the stones before i use it on the 1060.
- Location
- Charlotte, NC
I've heard stories from Chris newmiller doing this at the races overnight before the finals day
WFO Speedracer
A lifetime ban is like a lifetime warranty !
- Location
- Alabama
I have done it before on a small Honda four stroke cylinder but never done it on a two stroke, but I have witnessed it being done The biggest issue with this method is setting up the clearances, the process gets the cylinder really hot and you have to let it cool down then check the clearances but that part is the same whether you use a boring bar or a hone..
SXIPro
JM781 Big Bore
- Location
- Here on the 'X' mostly
I just use an ice fishing auger. Seems to work pretty swell.
WFO Speedracer
A lifetime ban is like a lifetime warranty !
- Location
- Alabama
Do you use crisco with that auger or something else ?
SXIPro
JM781 Big Bore
- Location
- Here on the 'X' mostly
Dr. Pepper
- Location
- Annapolis, Maryland
How many of yaw use Threebond 1184 over 1211? I tried using the 1184 yesterday and I was not happy with it at all. I tried putting it on with a rubber roller and it immediately started almost flaking off either the case or the roller. Then once I did manage to get a thin layer on the case halves it seemed like it was dry to the touch before I could even get the cases assembled. I ended up backstopping with with the 1184 and I'm now stuck cleaning it all off so I can use 1211. Well that wasn't the only reason. I think I went way to heavy on the bearing retaining compound because something didn't feel right once I got everything assembled. Everything felt way too tight and one of the little oil drip holes in center top half of the case was clogged or something because it wouldn't allow any oil to drain down to the bearing.
- Location
- Charlotte, NC
I've used permatex motoseal on over 4 different engines with solid results.
- Location
- California
1184 for almost 30 years with no issues and I pressure test every engine.
Cases should be spotless and final wipe down with brake cleaner.
Thin coat of 1184 on both case halves, and by thin you should still se some of the machining.
Don't worry about it drying out as it is semi-drying anyways.
The cases are a matched set and tight tolerances so you don't need big globs of sealant as most of it will squeeze out anyway.
Application should not be with a rubber roller, it isn't Loctite 518, looing at you Seadoo........
Cases should be spotless and final wipe down with brake cleaner.
Thin coat of 1184 on both case halves, and by thin you should still se some of the machining.
Don't worry about it drying out as it is semi-drying anyways.
The cases are a matched set and tight tolerances so you don't need big globs of sealant as most of it will squeeze out anyway.
Application should not be with a rubber roller, it isn't Loctite 518, looing at you Seadoo........