What Hone?

[Quinc]

Putting in new rings and pistons (preventive maintenance) Is a ball or flex stone hone better? Should I go with 240, 180, or 120 grit? And any recommendations on honing oil?



Or stone hone?

 

[WFO Speedracer]

Flex hone is better those other style hones get stuck in the ports , I usually go with a 220 grit for regular cast iron rings

 

[Myself]

Either will work fine but as a bonus, the flex hone will also chamfer the ports a bit at the same time. 180 or 220 grit.

 

[Pro-pulsion]

I like the straight stones, easier to maintain consistency top to bottom and I have used a thin coating of any engine oil. Last one I did I used 10w40, just a light coating, run the hone through a bunch of times and clean out the cylinder, re-apply another coat and run the hone again. Rinse and repeat until you have a nice crosshatching, and those spring loaded straight stones don't have enough spring tension behind them to really grind out anything significant so you can safely run them through the cylinder a fair bit. I've done it lots of times and never had any significant differences in measurements, 1-2 tenths (0.0002") is probably the most I've ever taken out. It's more like just scuffing up the surface to get rid of any glazing

 

[Quinc]

Last question! Will a 83mm hone be work on a 84mm bore?

 

[Pro-pulsion]

That second one should, it goes from 2-7 inches, 84mm is 3.3 inches

 

[TheBuzzard]

Ball hone would be best just to break the glaze and those flex hones are total junk. Sunnen stone hone or cheaper similar hone is what I use when I have slight damage from losing a piston or siezure. I have a couple ball hones from my v8 motor building days and I use those. The ports yank balls off but idgaf

 

[WFO Speedracer]

Ball hone would be best just to break the glaze and those flex hones are total junk. Sunnen stone hone or cheaper similar hone is what I use when I have slight damage from losing a piston or siezure. I have a couple ball hones from my v8 motor building days and I use those. The ports yank balls off but idgaf

So what exactly is the difference between a flex hone and a ball hone ?

 

[TheBuzzard]

I normally don't talk to vermin but I'll give you this. Don't ever ask me anything.
I'll smash you if l ever get the opportunity. For all the shonet you've talked about me over the last 20 years . Know that if you know nothing else in your pathetic existence.

So what exactly is the difference between a flex hone and a ball hone ?

 

[WFO Speedracer]

I normally don't talk to vermin but I'll give you this. Don't ever ask me anything.
I'll smash you if l ever get the opportunity. For all the shonet you've talked about me over the last 20 years . Know that if you know nothing else in your pathetic existence.

So no answer then, yeah I get it you stuck your foot in your mouth again and posts like this are your only means of saving face.

Don't worry I will never stoop to your level , but I will say that pic looks like a roid rage guy about to go off the rails, congrats if that is what you were going for , not sure if my new nickname for you is Lex Luger or Chris Benoit either way, you nailed it !

 

[TheBuzzard]

Neither one of those hones will true the surface. All they do is scratch it. The rougher the stone, the deeper the scratches. Magnified pix after ball hone shows a smoother surface if used after bore and stone hone. That meant less wear on break in so it was highly recommended. I learned that 45 years ago in high school auto shop. Thinking back, the ball hone may have been new technology which is why it was a subject. No idea when it was invented. I've used those garbage spring loaded stone hones on brake wheel cylinders in the 80s doing break jobs. I wouldn't even bother using one on an engine

 

[WFO Speedracer]

Putting in new rings and pistons (preventive maintenance) Is a ball or flex stone hone better? Should I go with 240, 180, or 120 grit? And any recommendations on honing oil?

View attachment 443791


Do you see that flex hone in the pic above, that's a ball hone , hmm says flex hone right on the box weird huh , yes a parallel jaw hone will straighten the bore if it's tapered or out of round, they are expensive , you might find an Aamco for a reasonable amount a Sunnen will cost you a pretty penny , the dude is doing a re-ring , no need for a parallel jaw hone.

 

[Myself]

With watchful measurements, the plain old spring loaded 3 stone hone does a fine job in MOST situations. I use one all the time. If a bore is out of round enough to warrant the nice Sunnen type hone.........it's normally time for a fresh oversize bore anyway.

 

[Sparkplug]

I use a sunnen Hone like mentioned above. I pull sleeves. Put them in my 4 jaw. Get hem close. Then use the sunnen hone to get it perfect for whatever piston I'm using.

If I was trying o get some surface texture back. I'd use one if those flex ball hones. But if your bore is whacked out. They ain gonna do much but waste your time.

Sent from my SM-G991U using Tapatalk

 

[fastgtfairlane]

Also remember, the more you hone out on your cylinder, the larger the piston clearance will be which increases chance of breaking a sleeve or a piston and doing more extensive damage. You'll get a season or two out of it with the stock head on it but once you start adding more compression and rpm, the quicker you'll break something. For stock applications you might be OK. Definitely need to measure the bore. I wouldn't put anything in the cylinder other than a sunnan hone or similar. I've seen people use a ball hone and cringed the entire time. The brake hone and ball hone will catch on the ports which is why the sunnan hone is recommended. It also will true the cylinder instead of just scratching it. It would take a while but you could actually use a sunnan hone to bore your cylinder to the next piston size in a pinch.
Had this happen to me with a 750 sp. I replaced the pistons, light hone and got almost 2 seasons out of it. I put a lightened flywheel and milled head on it and rode it 3 days at Daytona, and while flushing it out on the lake, it broke a piston. Haha

 

[WFO Speedracer]

( Putting in new rings and pistons (preventive maintenance) Is a ball or flex stone hone better? Should I go with 240, 180, or 120 grit? And any recommendations on honing oil?)

There is no description of what engine this is , no pics, no background on how many hours are on the engine , compression mods etc.

This is what's wrong with this site , how given that limited amount of information can you determine his cylinder needs anything more than a deglaze ?

If I had it to here to rebuild for a customer I would check taper and out of round but I have the proper micrometers and snap gauges to do that job with , most people don't , engine rebuilding is not a one size fits all , what works for some may not for others , keep that in mind .

 

[SUPERJET-113]

@Quinc I have both of those hones and I prefer the ball hone myself. I think its easier to use and less chance of accidental damage compared to the long stone deglazer.

 

[Freakrider]

Neither one of those hones will true the surface. All they do is scratch it. The rougher the stone, the deeper the scratches. Magnified pix after ball hone shows a smoother surface if used after bore and stone hone. That meant less wear on break in so it was highly recommended. I learned that 45 years ago in high school auto shop. Thinking back, the ball hone may have been new technology which is why it was a subject. No idea when it was invented. I've used those garbage spring loaded stone hones on brake wheel cylinders in the 80s doing break jobs. I wouldn't even bother using one on an engine

My local mechanic of many years, and who worked for a Yamaha dealership says: " Lol you want the scratches as he calls it that's the whole point of honing those retain oil."

 

[WFO Speedracer]

If you want to deglaze use a ball hone , if you want to move metal use a parallel jaw hone , I used to have a guy that bored my cylinders with a Sunnen hone, it would take him about 30 minutes give or take , the issue with that is if the cylinder is somehow going in a certain direction as in off center or off axis it will continue to be off center or off axis, the boring bar will always bore it exactly 90 degrees to the table it is bolted down to.

 

[Sparkplug]

If you want to deglaze use a ball hone , if you want to move metal use a parallel jaw hone , I used to have a guy that bored my cylinders with a Sunnen hone, it would take him about 30 minutes give or take , the issue with that is if the cylinder is somehow going in a certain direction as in off center or off axis it will continue to be off center or off axis, the boring bar will always bore it exactly 90 degrees to the table it is bolted down to.

That's why I pull the sleeves. It allows you to bore them in any decent sized lathe. My clausing does great.