what is this bike worth?

[pimpchevy07]

is a 1999 cr250 worth $1,500. it has decent tires, new top end 2 seasons ago, pro circuit pipe and silencer, aftermarket triple clamps, and some type of levers he mentioned. is it worth the asking price? what are things i should look for when i go check it out tonight? how do i check if the chain and sprocket are good? what about the hubs?

thanks-chris

 

[ketsair]

if it's been maintained, yup, it's worth it, if it's a country boys bike that never raced it, i'd walk away, if you can, put it on a stand so at least 1 tire is off the ground, start off looking for obvious oil leaks, (countershaft seal, fork seals are most typical) then rock the bike back so the front tire is off the ground, try to feel for play in the fork tube, rock the front wheel forwards & backward, try to feel for play in the fork tube, not the steering stem, if there is, it will need slide & glide bushings, fork seals & fork fluid, then check for the steering stem, they are tapered bearings so it will need a bit more force to show if they are worn (you don't need to be shaking the bike off the stand though) check wheel bearings, side to side, spokes for bent or loose, wheel for trueness, side to side & up & down, watch the lip of the rim, not the tire, use a pencil for a pointer if needed, move to the back of the bike, rear tire off the ground, do the same to the wheel, then grab the wheel, move side to side & watch the swingarm pivot pin for movement, then leaning over rear fender pull wheel straight up, feel for a clunking, if there is, watch for an upper or lower shock bearing (most commonly missed bearings for maintenance) if it's not that look @ the linkage, run compression test, pull clutch lever, see if it feels gritty or like it's pulling past saw tooth edges, take it for a ride & feel the mechanical function, clean or rough, clutch slippage, if there is make sure the cable isn't too tight, also see if the shifter & brake pedals are floppy, a lot of rookies jump & land on them, no biggie for the brake, new bushing (if it's serviceable) & go, but the shifter can cause unneeded issues with the shift drum & forks, i'm bored of typing now, later

 

[ketsair]

crap i missed the chai & sprockets, if the teeth are sharp, it need to be replaced, fairly easy way to check slack is while bike has no weight on it, just it's own weight, there should be roughly room for 2 1/2-3 fingers directly on top of the rubber plug for the linkage, hubs don't wear unless bearing crap out & digg in, other wise they break

 

[Wolf Child]

is a 1999 cr250 worth $1,500.

-it has decent tires < Translation: needs tires

-new top end 2 seasons ago <Translation: needs top end

-pro circuit pipe and silencer <Probably needs to be cleaned and repacked

-aftermarket triple clamps <May or may not be a good thing. Look for damage to head tube area and forks

-some type of levers he mentioned <Unless they are ASV levers new levers are negligable.

is it worth the asking price? what are things i should look for when i go check it out tonight? how do i check if the chain and sprocket are good? what about the hubs?

thanks-chris

Look for any slop in any and ALL pivot points or signs of rust in the same areas. ESPECIALLY the head tube and swing arm. These are usually some of the most neglected areas on a used bike ( and and 8-9 yr old bike at that) look for sticky/stiff cable movement on the clutch and throttle.

ask when the last time he had the shock and forks serviced and who did the work and what oil/oil level he used. if he gives you a blank stare even for a second he hasnt done them EVER and they will need to be rebuilt. On this not same goes for the coolant and brake fluid, if he hasnt done the forks then most likely the other stuff hasnt been done either.

For $1500 that bike had better be PRISTINE or pass and get something else.

I'd offer him $1000 IF it is in reasonable shape for its age and you dont have to replace bearings anywhere. otherwise, unless you steal it, it will be a money pit and a headache.

 

[Wolf Child]

save your money.. get a newer 250f (03-04) for another grand!!

youre going to spend another $1000 on that bike in no time if you plan on doing any kind of regular riding on the weekends.

WORD!

 

[pimpchevy07]

i checked the bike out and it seems pretty clean. it ran good. the only thing i noticed wrong with it was the pipe was dented, does this hurt performance? when you rebuild the top end on a 2 stroke bike what do you have to do to the cylinder? i know you replace piston, rings, gaskets, etc. on a ski you usually bore the cylinder to the next size, do you do that on a bike?

thanks-chris

 

[pimpchevy07]

o yea i would love to buy a newer bike but i dont have another grand. i just wanna hit a couple jumps after school. i dont ride real hard. how long does a top end last on a bike?

 

[ketsair]

that bike has a nikasil bore, unless the nikasil is flaking bubbling or showing signs of getting thin, usually do nothing, they do make a hone for a nikasil bore, but usually not needed

 

[ketsair]

dent in a pipe will change the performance, but not necessarily for the bad, when i was racing, i had a couple track that were so tight, i took a ball peen hammer to make some dents to give me a little more low end, didn't have the pipe i'd have wanted to use.....you can pull the dent out but it's usually not worth it, especially for what you're wanting to do with it, and as for the 2stroke 4stroke choice, sounds like a 2stroke would be the best choice for you now, $ and also to find a 250 thumper anywhere near your $ range it would likely be one of the older yz250f's they were not a reliable bike until after a few years mfg, they were an extremely expensive bike to race in the 1st years of their production, my top end maintenance was new rings before every main event, new piston every other ring, was usually approx 10hrs of race/practice time. ALWAYS clean the powervalve train when taking the cylinder off!!! if you're just play riding likely a 250 will go a year before you need anything, unless you play kinda hard

 

[ketsair]

yeah, but usually that nikasil gets worn down, specially after 2 seasons. youre *probably* looking at a replacement cylinder

na, replating, never had an issue with a replated cylinder pleeling or bubbling, give uschrome a call, they've done several for me, bout 1 week turn around....or was back then

 

[Andrew1289]

I have a 1999 cr250. I bought the bike a year ago for a grand. needed the regular things chain sprockets, fork seals and bushings, grips top end(i also got it ported) pulled the bike apart down to every single bolt and put it back together with grease where it needs it anti seeze where it needs it and lock tight where ti needs it. even powder coated the frame and swing arm(bad idea waste of money, should of spent that on revalving the suspention). Its a great little bike however i spent to much on it for what its worth. The later model cr250s perform, mostly handle alot better.

1999 cr250 still a good bike just get it for cheap and dont spent to much on it for parts

iv heard the 1999 cr250 porting is favorable over other years, its got a strong motor

if you do get it pull the top end just to take a look at it, at least just hone the cylender and put new rings on the pistion

hope this helped somewhat

 

[Vumad]

I just sold my 1994 KX125 in FL for $1000. It looked like crap, the tires were dry rotted anbd the only thing I can say good about it was that the engine was strong. Someone worked the deal, I just signed the title when $1000 was in my hand. I'd say if a 1999 is any kind of decent, $1500 isn't that bad.

With that said, I will not own another 2 stroke bike or quad, especially a Kawi. I was learning to ride and the power band was so strong, it spun the bike sideways in the air when I jumped in the wrong gear. The landing tore me up.

I find a 4-stroke much more desireable, and when you learn to ride it, it will run just as fast as any 2-stroke (and vice versa).

I had a KX125, Honda XR100, and a Warrior 350. I realize the KX125 was the fastest and hardest to ride, but I absolutly hate the power band on 2-strokes. Hate hate hate. Smooth raw power of a 4-stroker is where it is at. Yup.

 

[Wolf Child]

I just sold my 1994 KX125 in FL for $1000. It looked like crap, the tires were dry rotted anbd the only thing I can say good about it was that the engine was strong. Someone worked the deal, I just signed the title when $1000 was in my hand. I'd say if a 1999 is any kind of decent, $1500 isn't that bad.

With that said, I will not own another 2 stroke bike or quad, especially a Kawi. I was learning to ride and the power band was so strong, it spun the bike sideways in the air when I jumped in the wrong gear. The landing tore me up.

I find a 4-stroke much more desireable, and when you learn to ride it, it will run just as fast as any 2-stroke (and vice versa).

I had a KX125, Honda XR100, and a Warrior 350. I realize the KX125 was the fastest and hardest to ride, but I absolutly hate the power band on 2-strokes. Hate hate hate. Smooth raw power of a 4-stroker is where it is at. Yup.

swap it out with a pink one. That should be more to your liking.:cheer2:

 

[Vumad]

It's not that the KX125 was too fast or powerful, it's that is was nothing, then everything. It's like flipping a light switch. I ride a warrior 350, and my buddy's Blaster 200. They are equally as fast and powerful, but the blaster is pipey, and the warrior is smooth. They are equal in preformance, it's how they deliver that preformance that I don't like.

I shouldn't turn this into a debate about 4-stroke vs. 2-stroke. I sort of got the impression that it may be his 1st bike, which I would reccomend a 4-stroke. Some people like 2-strokes, and can out run a 4-stroke. The same is vice versa. It's just that if I were in his shoes, I'd rather pay to ride a 4-storke than take a 2-stroke for free. I just don't like them. Maybe he's intentionally looking for a 2-stroke.

 

[cdubb]

Vumad next time get a flywheel wieght. They do wonders to tame it down for woods riding.

For whats its worth I sold a 02 YZ125 in 04 for 1200,with all new plastics,chain and sprockets,all bearings,new crank and top end. Just lettin you know that you can get a newer one for about the same if your patient. If ya want a honda you can find a newer one with the perimeter frame like the news in your price range. IThink they came out in 02??? oh and my bdy sold a 97 cr250 clapped out for 1600. He ripped them off,so jus be patient,youll find a good one(not saying that one isnt) oh and all 2 smoke prices are goin down.

As far as the 4 stroke being cheaper to maintain BS If you ride em like they should be they need a top end around 40 hours. I work for a guy whos kids race prepping their bikes and maintance he now rides a bike 40 hours and sells it. To him its cost effitive to trade em out early and start over,luckily for me we got spare forks and a shock so I just swap them and the new owner gets brand new suspension thats never hit dirt.

Any way,,get a bike and ride that thing!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[Superjet 9195]

I just sold my 1994 KX125 in FL for $1000. It looked like crap, the tires were dry rotted anbd the only thing I can say good about it was that the engine was strong. Someone worked the deal, I just signed the title when $1000 was in my hand. I'd say if a 1999 is any kind of decent, $1500 isn't that bad.

With that said, I will not own another 2 stroke bike or quad, especially a Kawi. I was learning to ride and the power band was so strong, it spun the bike sideways in the air when I jumped in the wrong gear. The landing tore me up.

I find a 4-stroke much more desireable, and when you learn to ride it, it will run just as fast as any 2-stroke (and vice versa).

I had a KX125, Honda XR100, and a Warrior 350. I realize the KX125 was the fastest and hardest to ride, but I absolutly hate the power band on 2-strokes. Hate hate hate. Smooth raw power of a 4-stroker is where it is at. Yup.

An Old School MXer will tell you "thats what the clutch is for Bro!" Not being an old schooler myself, I also prefer the 4 stroke because....... it is easier to ride. They engine brake which a 2 stroke doesnt and they have the low end hit to get you out of trouble some times. Keeping a little 125 2 stroke on the band all the time is probably the hardest bike to ride. If you can get fast on one of those little bikes, everything else is a cake walk.

 

[Vumad]

I had my valves on my warrior redone for the 1st time at 160 hours. It was babied for the 1st 100 hours, and then I ran the piss out of it for the 60 I owned it. The only reason the valves went was the sand that got in. I was running a K&N in sugar sand for 8 hours w/o changing the filter. A lesson learned. I think I could have gotten well past 200 hours before I had the problem i did other wise.

Sure, it would run best if I rebuilt it every 40 hours, but the minor amount of power loss doesn't matter when your an amature racing your buddy in a field.

 

[pimpchevy07]

i have owned bikes and rode for 7 years. i like 4 stroke bikes, but they are so heavy. i only way 155 so it is much easier for me to rip around a 2 stroke on the track. how do you hone a cylinder?

 

[Andrew1289]

did u buy the cr? You can hone nikasil, by using a ball hone and a drill. Sometimes even just using sand paper (not sure of correct grit) will be enough just to clean up the bore and take the glaze away. After honeing or sanding be sure to clean the cylinder bore well with soap and water. Use pre mix to lube all parts when rebuidling. When u put the new rings on ( if u do) make sure the rings are right side up(there is a small dot marking that should face upwards). Also be sure to use new gaskets. there is no need for extra gasket sealent. Also put some type of grease on the two aligning pins that go between the base of the cylinder and the crank cases. Go to www.dirtrider.net and do a search there is alot of good info. good luck

 

[ketsair]

Sometimes even just using sand paper (not sure of correct grit) will be enough just to clean up the bore and take the glaze away. After honeing or sanding be sure to clean the cylinder bore well with soap and water.

wetsand with 400 grit to lay a cross hatch, also can lay a light cross hatch to the piston to help get oil on skirts & walls, but most pistons seem like they're ribbed now anyhow