Other What is your Flywheel Puller?

[2lick]

What tool are you all using to easily and safely pull your Flywheels? I'm happy to spend some money.

For 10+ years I've used and hated my Craftsman puller... something like this one: https://www.amazon.com/ABN-Harmonic...ywheel+puller&qid=1554130984&s=gateway&sr=8-6

Bought the Cold Fusion FW holder tool years ago so I could stop dropping rope in the hole I pull the FW bolt out a couple of threads and then use the puller. I don't like this for a few reasons and as my motors get more expensive and I work on more and more that are not mine, I'd like to find a safer and better way.

Thanks!
-Nick

 

[Chase Musetti]

Harbor frieght one- all day- works well and is strong and cheap

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[Quinc]

I have also been using the harbor freight puller for years. Impact gun takes the flywheel bolt right out. No need for the rope. Putting the bolt back in I use a break bar to hold the rear coupler then torque to spec.

 

[uwswimmer]

I use the cold fusion holder tool and a harbor freight puller

 

[mikidymac]

I have also been using the harbor freight puller for years. Impact gun takes the flywheel bolt right out. No need for the rope. Putting the bolt back in I use a break bar to hold the rear coupler then torque to spec.

Doing it this way you chance twisting the crank out of phase. You are better off locking the front cylinder with something.

 

[john zigler]

This IS expensive, but man is it heavy duty;

https://www.watcon.com/tools/engine-1/flywheel-puller

Heat is your friend. Don't ever hold PTO when torqueing flywheel. That puts a lot of stress on the crank, and can/will twist it out of phase.

 

[iQRTurbo]

The tool Watcon uses is the ultimate and the same one I use. It is made to be used directly on the Polaris but works well for just about any flywheel with some common sense. On Yamaha based engines the center drive bolt is too short and too large of an OD to fit inside the flywheel bore to push on the crank so I have made an extension on the lathe that lengthens and reduces the pilot nose to reach the crank when used for Yamaha. A 12mm or so shallow well socket works great to and did that for years. That tool is a beast, you will NEVER bend the housing or strip out the driver.
I use an impact gun for ALL flywheel and coupler work. Trying to jam the crank and use breaker bars is hell on a crank. An impact by design puts very little load on pressed joints of the crank, no need to hold it at all, just bump the trigger and the weight of the crank and impact does all the work. Hot Products dealers sell some great coupler removal tools that go right onto an impact gun also. I have one for ADA style and OEM style couplers and they work amazing, no more breaker bars, pipe wrenches, chain locks or vices. I’m sure John can show what the coupler tools look like

 

[jeepcreepcj]

I use one from sbt that works good, I did have to die grind / oval the holes slightly in the puller to align properly w the flywheel bolts.

https://www.watercraftsuperstore.ne...MIqN_-nbmx4QIV8R6tBh2-rgS5EAQYCiABEgLqmPD_BwE

 

[Roseand]

The tool Watcon uses is the ultimate and the same one I use. It is made to be used directly on the Polaris but works well for just about any flywheel with some common sense. On Yamaha based engines the center drive bolt is too short and too large of an OD to fit inside the flywheel bore to push on the crank so I have made an extension on the lathe that lengthens and reduces the pilot nose to reach the crank when used for Yamaha. A 12mm or so shallow well socket works great to and did that for years. That tool is a beast, you will NEVER bend the housing or strip out the driver.
I use an impact gun for ALL flywheel and coupler work. Trying to jam the crank and use breaker bars is hell on a crank. An impact by design puts very little load on pressed joints of the crank, no need to hold it at all, just bump the trigger and the weight of the crank and impact does all the work. Hot Products dealers sell some great coupler removal tools that go right onto an impact gun also. I have one for ADA style and OEM style couplers and they work amazing, no more breaker bars, pipe wrenches, chain locks or vices. I’m sure John can show what the coupler tools look like

So is an impact the only way to remove/install a coupler without putting stress on the crank?

 

[mikidymac]

So is an impact the only way to remove/install a coupler without putting stress on the crank?

As long as you lock the closest cylinder you are working on it will be fine. Some use rope down the plug hole but I like to use a round block of wood. I get the cylinder I am closest to on the upstroke depending if I am loosening or tightening then put the block of wood in and just hand tighten the head with no gasket. Then either torque or remove the flywheel or pto then remove the block and reinstall the head the correct way. This will not twist the crank.

 

[iQRTurbo]

Doesn’t matter which cylinder you block, don’t do it. Dropping rope down the hole was wasn’t even a good idea with World War II technology. If you block the first cylinder you are still putting stress on Everything. When you stop the piston at top dead center and load it up with a breaker bar what do you think the poor little wrist pin bearing is enduring. All the force is now focused on one single needle bearing that is 20mm wide. You will flat spot a needle bearing or in the case of a stock Yamaha crank wheel that has an integrated pin, it is not a hardened tool steel pin and will dent it from the lower rod bearing. Using an impact allows all the rotating assembly to just follow along for the ride. Too many engines have shortened lifespans from poor assembly/disassembly methods. Not trying to pick on anyone, just trying to help those interested in hearing about it. Impacts are magic for removal of the parts. If you don’t have one on hand, hit the wrench with a hammer while letting the guts spin free, it is about the shock loading that breaks it free, not the brute force by jamming the parts and leaning on a breaker bar.

 

[Big Kahuna]

Rogue Racing sells a puller that is like the old RAD puller. It holds the flywheel at the same time. Best route, but unless you are mechanic it is just so damn expensive. Like almost 500.00

 

[Big Kahuna]

Well heck, I thought Rogue made and sold those. Hit up Robert Sand on FB (AKA Jetskimechanic!) for these.

 

[yamanube]

Just buy a cheap HF harmonic puller and throw away all the parts you don't use. I like to throw a couple nuts jammed together on the three screws that thread into the wheel that act as a depth stop to keep me from wrecking a stator.

 

[TheBuzzard]

this is basically the one I use only mine has 6 holes. works on Yamaha, Kawasaki stock and MSD flywheels. nice and short. don't need to remove the tank.

 

[QuickMick]

Doesn’t matter which cylinder you block, don’t do it. Dropping rope down the hole was wasn’t even a good idea with World War II technology. If you block the first cylinder you are still putting stress on Everything. When you stop the piston at top dead center and load it up with a breaker bar what do you think the poor little wrist pin bearing is enduring. All the force is now focused on one single needle bearing that is 20mm wide. You will flat spot a needle bearing or in the case of a stock Yamaha crank wheel that has an integrated pin, it is not a hardened tool steel pin and will dent it from the lower rod bearing. Using an impact allows all the rotating assembly to just follow along for the ride. Too many engines have shortened lifespans from poor assembly/disassembly methods. Not trying to pick on anyone, just trying to help those interested in hearing about it. Impacts are magic for removal of the parts. If you don’t have one on hand, hit the wrench with a hammer while letting the guts spin free, it is about the shock loading that breaks it free, not the brute force by jamming the parts and leaning on a breaker bar.

Ive been saying that for years... everyone thinks the rope trick is the ticket.. or a rag.
Here is a good thread to read. http://www.x-h2o.com/index.php?threads/removing-flywheel-stupid-question.52892/#post-704306

Below is the holder I make to hold the flywheel. One for the 701 and one for the 760. they are easy to make.

 

[Sparkplug]

Haha. People think a impact hitting the crank with 51 ft pounds, puts more stress on it than the combustion cycle beating the piston down the bore 7000 times a minutes.

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[iQRTurbo]

Yeah, sometimes a good

Haha. People think a impact hitting the crank with 51 ft pounds, puts more stress on it than the combustion cycle beating the piston down the bore 7000 times a minutes.

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analogy and common sense brings it right into perspective.

 

[iQRTurbo]

Oops, somehow the quote split my comment

 

[mikidymac]

Say what you will but locking the piston does work and doesn't damage anything. You can't always use an impact especially to torque the flywheel or PTO on and other manufacturer's like Seadoo you can't use an impact on the PTO with any luck. Been doing it this way for over 25 years without a single issue.

Also with a really high torque impact hitting the flywheel of a free spinning you still have the potential to twist the crank, all that force is on one lobe of the crank trying to spin only one side of the piston pin and the inertia of the rest of the crank is fighting it. When the piston is on a power stroke that force is generated on the lower rod pin through both webs of the crank. Just like a high free revving engine in the air suddenly hooking up again can twist the crank.

For spinning out the flywheel bolt and the puller, yes and impact works great but there are many times you still need to lock the crank. I have also seen the toothed tool that is supposed to lock the crank blow out cases too.

Flywheels usually come off pretty easy with the correct tools. I have the hardest time with old PTo's that have never been off and lots of heat on the PTo helps.

So either way you could potentially cause a problem, just try to create the least amount of stress to get the parts apart.